Choosing a tank

[snusmumriken]

If that is a print glazer at the back (the thing with a typically dirty canvas cover), throw it away immediately! It will ruin your prints and drive you insane in the process. Besides, they have been considered extinct for at least 50 years, so its loss will not be noticed.

 

[koraks]

Does any red light work, or I need a special one?

Red LED bulbs or strips work in principle, but some/many need additional filtering with e.g. rubylith, or keep intensity/power down by dimming, bouncing the light onto a wall/ceiling or just not installing too many of those bulbs. Of course all the old-skool safelights with (good) filters also still work, but personally I've moved to LEDs several years ago.

Can I put a LED bulb in the enlarger, although the old 100W incandescent light still works for a start.

Maybe. It's a can of worms you're opening. Frankly, if the original bulb still works, just use that at least for starters. One less variable that can go wrong.
In a true condensor enlarger, a LED bulb for home use in my understanding won't work since it won't focus properly and you'll probably run into uneven coverage issues. In a hybrid diffusor-condensor or pure diffusor enlarger, a LED bulb will work, but use one that goes on and off instantly. Many bulbs for home use have an afterglow and/or start slowly/increase intensity. For enlarger purposes, that can/will be a problem. Again, if the original bulb still works, I'd use that and if you can, order one or two spares online so you're set for the years to come. Enlarger bulbs don't die all that often. Therefore, there's also very little gain to switching to a white LED bulb instead of a true enlarger bulb.

can't use Rodinal and adofix for photos?

Adofix, yes. Rodinal will be cumbersome and expensive. It'll develop paper alright, but you'll be working at a 1+10 or 1+5 dilution or so and it may not last all that long, and may start to stain at some point. I've done it in a pinch, once, and it sort of worked. But really, don't bother. Just get any decent paper developer. The fix will be OK - fix is fix, for all intents and purposes. Best not use the same bottle of working stock for film and then for paper. Keep separate bottles of working strength for paper and for film. The iodide from the film will slow down fixing paper.

If that is a print glazer at the back (the thing with a typically dirty canvas cover), throw it away immediately! It will ruin your prints and drive you insane in the process. Besides, they have been considered extinct for at least 50 years, so its loss will not be noticed.

Not to mention the asbestos plate in there that might flake off due to the thing having been thrown around for several decades. I had one of those once, very briefly. It served no purpose and was just a liability to keep around.

 

[Lumipan]

If that is a print glazer at the back (the thing with a typically dirty canvas cover), throw it away immediately! It will ruin your prints and drive you insane in the process. Besides, they have been considered extinct for at least 50 years, so its loss will not be noticed.

thanks. It's very dirty and has some old electricity plug which I can't find a cable for anyway... I won't use

 

[Lumipan]

Red LED bulbs or strips work in principle, but some/many need additional filtering with e.g. rubylith, or keep intensity/power down by dimming, bouncing the light onto a wall/ceiling or just not installing too many of those bulbs. Of course all the old-skool safelights with (good) filters also still work, but personally I've moved to LEDs several years ago.



Maybe. It's a can of worms you're opening. Frankly, if the original bulb still works, just use that at least for starters. One less variable that can go wrong.
In a true condensor enlarger, a LED bulb for home use in my understanding won't work since it won't focus properly and you'll probably run into uneven coverage issues. In a hybrid diffusor-condensor or pure diffusor enlarger, a LED bulb will work, but use one that goes on and off instantly. Many bulbs for home use have an afterglow and/or start slowly/increase intensity. For enlarger purposes, that can/will be a problem. Again, if the original bulb still works, I'd use that and if you can, order one or two spares online so you're set for the years to come. Enlarger bulbs don't die all that often. Therefore, there's also very little gain to switching to a white LED bulb instead of a true enlarger bulb.



Adofix, yes. Rodinal will be cumbersome and expensive. It'll develop paper alright, but you'll be working at a 1+10 or 1+5 dilution or so and it may not last all that long, and may start to stain at some point. I've done it in a pinch, once, and it sort of worked. But really, don't bother. Just get any decent paper developer. The fix will be OK - fix is fix, for all intents and purposes. Best not use the same bottle of working stock for film and then for paper. Keep separate bottles of working strength for paper and for film. The iodide from the film will slow down fixing paper.


Not to mention the asbestos plate in there that might flake off due to the thing having been thrown around for several decades. I had one of those once, very briefly. It served no purpose and was just a liability to keep around.

Thanks very much for your extensive help, I'll order some papers, paper developer and a bit more fix and get a dedicated red light along, I think I've seen it in store last time...

 

[koraks]

Yeah, a couple of brands still make dedicated darkroom safelights. Adox for sure does, probably some others too (and not just ridiculously expensive Heiland).

 

[MattKing]

Yeah, a couple of brands still make dedicated darkroom safelights. Adox for sure does, probably some others too (and not just ridiculously expensive Heiland).

Interestingly enough, Eastman Kodak still lists OC replacement filters in the catalogue that mostly contains motion picture films.

 

[Lumipan]

I ended up with a new JOBO tank because the old tanks I got were dirty and had no lids, so I decided to get a new one. I developed an Ilford DELTA 400 film last night and I'm quite happy with the results, I thought I'll waste the first film, but I didn't

The darkroom has seen some action too, I've developed a few prints. It was easier and more successful than I expected... The ADOX supersafe light is very convenient

I used ADOX Neutol Eco, white vinegar in water and ADOFIX P II. Rinsing with water afterwards in my bathroom, now the prints are drying there...

I have a Meopta Opemus III and it's got a red filter, so you can focus while the paper is on the 'stage' and not expose it. But the light gets so dim that I can't seem to focus with the filter on. So I'd focus on the stage without the paper and then put the paper and expose. It is 0.2mm difference in focus, shouldn't be a problem (or?). Should I get an another filter, or just proceed working like this?

Meopta Opemus is rated 100W max, I'm wondering where can I find a spare bulb. The one I found, dedicated for enlargers is 150W. Not sure Opemus would be able to handle the heat...

What happens when you close the iris on the enlarger objective?

Here is one image of a sunken ship and picturesque concrete modern architecture behind... It is quite grainy, it doesn't bother me especially on the prints, but I'm wondering: Why is that and is this grain amount usual for this combination of film and developer, could I do something to reduce it?

 

[aparat]

For what it's worth, I think you made the right choice. I love Jobo tanks, even for inversion agitation. They're super easy to load, and the fact that you can easily process two 120 rolls on a single reel is a bonus.

Opemus was my first enlarger, and I wish I still had it. The photograph you posted is excellent!

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Print dryers that glaze or ferrotype used to work very well. As near as I can tell it is impossible to ferrotype modern Ilford 'glossy' paper.

I concurr that the dryer in the picture should be disposed of as quickly as possible. Unbeleivably filthy. The blanket of any drier should be scrupulously clean with no staining.

 

[mshchem]

Compatible with Paterson mainly.


View attachment 331552
Flange A and (film path topper) C are connected to the top set of channels, and slide back and forth adjacent to Flange B and (film path topper) D, which are connected to the bottom set of channels.
You insert the film into the A:C and B to D gap - the dotted blue line - until (with 35mm film) the sprocket holes and the ball bearings engage.
Then you twist side to side, as mentioned.
When the reel is set wider to the 120/220 positions, a gap of about an inch/2.5 cm appears between Flange A and Flange B (as well as the corresponding film path toppers C and D). There still is though enough of a "runway" formed by A and B to make it easy to use one hand to insert the film into the A:C and B to D gap and push the end past the ball bearings. Then the film is advanced in the same way - twisting side to side.
There is an intermediate 127 position as well.
For comparison, a standard Paterson reel, with its relatively small and harder A:C and harder to locate B to D gap.
View attachment 331558

Here's a China eTone reel. Has AP flanges, Paterson steel ratcheting bearings, and Jobo separation clip. I tried one years back when they were 9 bucks, didn't impress me.

 

[MTGseattle]

@MattKing Thank you for that post with the pictures. I had always been a pretty die-hard stainless tank and reels guy. I got a patterson tank and some reels in a darkroom lot once, so that's what I used when I finally processed some film at home a couple of months ago. I had assumed I had Patterson reels, but they look like the Arista ones you've shown. Once I figured out how to lock them into 120/220 position, I found the film went on pretty easily.
I'm confused regarding the comments about loading (2) 120 rolls onto 1 Jobo reel. Does this use less chemistry than what I will call "normal" Jobo reels with 1 roll per reel? I'm guessing the 2 rolls on 1 reel is a larger diameter reel right?

 

[MattKing]

I'm confused regarding the comments about loading (2) 120 rolls onto 1 Jobo reel. Does this use less chemistry than what I will call "normal" Jobo reels with 1 roll per reel? I'm guessing the 2 rolls on 1 reel is a larger diameter reel right?

A 135-36 roll happens to be more than twice as long as a single 120 roll.
And of course a 220 roll is about the same length as two 120 rolls.
So any adjustable reel that has enough room on it for a 135-36 (or 220) roll also has enough room on it for two 120 rolls - with the first loaded all the way to nearest the centre of the reel, and the second loaded in the same channels, but in the outside part of the reel. Some people tape the two rolls together end to end, so it is like a continuous train of film.
If using inversion agitation, you don't need any more chemicals to cover the film than you need for a single roll.
If using rotary agitation, you may need a higher volume, because one of the films is closer to the centre.
And if you are using developer that is close to capacity for a single roll - say quite dilute D-76 - you may need to use more developer, as you are developing twice as much film.

 

[Lumipan]

For what it's worth, I think you made the right choice. I love Jobo tanks, even for inversion agitation. They're super easy to load, and the fact that you can easily process two 120 rolls on a single reel is a bonus.

Opemus was my first enlarger, and I wish I still had it. The photograph you posted is excellent!

Thanks, Opemus is fun to use, never used any other but this one seems pretty straightforward

Print dryers that glaze or ferrotype used to work very well. As near as I can tell it is impossible to ferrotype modern Ilford 'glossy' paper.

I concurr that the dryer in the picture should be disposed of as quickly as possible. Unbeleivably filthy. The blanket of any drier should be scrupulously clean with no staining.

I trashed it

 

[MTGseattle]

@MattKing Got it. It just seemed like an odd working methods choice given the few brief descriptions I had seen.

 

[redbandit]

Consider a daylighting like a Lab box. It's more expensive, but it will allow you to load and process the film and daylight; no dark room is required at all.

however doesnt that require CONSTANT agitation of the film.. Id really hate to do constant agittion with rodinal..

 

[SodaAnt]

Arista Premium wide flange reel:
https://www.freestylephoto.com/55043-Arista-Premium-Plastic-Developing-Reel
View attachment 331551

Are these the same reels as the Omega reels B&H sells?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122937-REG/Omega_455032_Universal_Adjustable_Multi_format_Reel.html

 

[MattKing]

Are these the same reels as the Omega reels B&H sells?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122937-REG/Omega_455032_Universal_Adjustable_Multi_format_Reel.html

They appear to be.
They are available under a bunch of different names. I believe the manufacturer is AP - some of mine are branded that way.