Choosing a new camera..

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Tom1956

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24 posts in one day, all on the subject of favorite ways to liberate a guy from his money on a new camera. On the 35mm side of the ledger is a Nikon F2, and on the other side is the Hass 500c, c/m.
Frankly I don't see any other contenders as worthy of a second of thought. These 2 cameras can still be located at prices that allow the finding of a decent copy. So why consider anything else?
 
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flajcsi

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How important are:
  1. Aperture priority auto exposure
  2. Battery dependance
  3. Viewfinder options
  4. Lens cost/selection


1. I don't really trust, better manual, but can help sometimes.
2. I prefer without any depenence
3. No preference
4. High quality primes.


Thank for all of you for the help. Some of you mentioned Medium Format. It's good to know that I have future plans for Medium Format (Mamiya RZ67 II or Contax 645 maybe Hasselblad), but for now I would like to improve my knownledge on 35mm.
Do you think it's better to jump right to Medium Format?
Which of these 35mm has better lens coverage and quality at a reasonable price?
Again the size and weight of a camera is not important for me, the quality of the machine and my knowledge has a higher priority.
 
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flajcsi

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flajcsi,

Find each of the camera models and hold them. How does each on feel? Is this one too large for my hands? Is that one too small for my hands. How does it feel to make settings, focus, fire the shutter and advance the film. Those questions will tell you more about which camera is best for you than any posts on the internet. A camera is a very personal tool, so get personal with each model before you invest in one.

This only comes from years selling cameras.

Siriusly!


Thank you for these words. I will try this option too, but it's complicated in the next 2 weeks, but holding them and trying, sounds reasonable.
 

summerbee

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yes, trying them in your own hands is mandatory... M42 cameras will offer you a bunch of lenses at decent prices: Pentax, russians, german and rebranded lenses for all the tastes... so i'd suggest Practika, Pentax, Exa.
If you choose Pentax in K baionet (or Ricoh or other brands) you can always get a ring and use Ks and M42s as well.
 

Les Sarile

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1. I don't really trust, better manual, but can help sometimes.
2. I prefer without any depenence
3. No preference
4. High quality primes.

  1. Fujica ST801 - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. M42 screw mount lens.
  2. Nikon FM3A - Has aperture priority with batteries but full shutter range available without due to the hybrid shutter mechanism. Newest on the list and likely in better shape. Body alone is most likely out of your price range.
  3. Nikon FM2 T - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. Body alone is most likely out of your price range.
  4. Nikon F2 AS - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. Body alone is likely out of your price range.
  5. Nikon F3 - Has aperture priority with batteries but limited functionality without. Interchangeable viewfinder and screens.
  6. Canon F1 - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. Interchangeable viewfinder and screens.
  7. Canon AE-1 - Has shutter priority and is fully dependent on battery.
  8. Canon A 1 - Has aperture and shutter priority and is fully dependent on battery.
  9. Contax RTS III - Modern SLR without autofocus and is fully dependent on batteries.
  10. Contax G2 - Modern rangefinder with autofocus that is fully dependent on batteries.
  11. Leica M3 - No aperture priority and no battery dependance. Body alone is most likely out of your price range.
  12. Pentax LX - Has aperture priority with batteries but X sync to 1/2000 shutter speeds available without. Full system support. Interchangeable viewfinder and screens. Only camera that can autoexpose for as long as it takes - or batteries drain.
  13. Pentax Spotmatic F - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. M42 screw mount lens.
More details from manuals can be found at Butkus Camera Manual Library


Thank for all of you for the help. Some of you mentioned Medium Format. It's good to know that I have future plans for Medium Format (Mamiya RZ67 II or Contax 645 maybe Hasselblad), but for now I would like to improve my knownledge on 35mm.
Do you think it's better to jump right to Medium Format?
Which of these 35mm has better lens coverage and quality at a reasonable price?
Again the size and weight of a camera is not important for me, the quality of the machine and my knowledge has a higher priority.

Mamiya RZ67 is excellent with exceptional lenses but definitely way out of your price range and is very heavy. 6X7 piece of film is very nice.
 
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flajcsi

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  1. Fujica ST801 - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. M42 screw mount lens.
  2. Nikon FM3A - Has aperture priority with batteries but full shutter range available without due to the hybrid shutter mechanism. Newest on the list and likely in better shape. Body alone is most likely out of your price range.
  3. Nikon FM2 T - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. Body alone is most likely out of your price range.
  4. Nikon F2 AS - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. Body alone is likely out of your price range.
  5. Nikon F3 - Has aperture priority with batteries but limited functionality without. Interchangeable viewfinder and screens.
  6. Canon F1 - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. Interchangeable viewfinder and screens.
  7. Canon AE-1 - Has shutter priority and is fully dependent on battery.
  8. Canon A 1 - Has aperture and shutter priority and is fully dependent on battery.
  9. Contax RTS III - Modern SLR without autofocus and is fully dependent on batteries.
  10. Contax G2 - Modern rangefinder with autofocus that is fully dependent on batteries.
  11. Leica M3 - No aperture priority and no battery dependance. Body alone is most likely out of your price range.
  12. Pentax LX - Has aperture priority with batteries but X sync to 1/2000 shutter speeds available without. Full system support. Interchangeable viewfinder and screens. Only camera that can autoexpose for as long as it takes - or batteries drain.
  13. Pentax Spotmatic F - No aperture priority and no battery dependance except for meter only. M42 screw mount lens.
More details from manuals can be found at Butkus Camera Manual Library




Mamiya RZ67 is excellent with exceptional lenses but definitely way out of your price range and is very heavy. 6X7 piece of film is very nice.

Wow. Nice. Thank your for all of this.
 
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flajcsi

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After a bit of searching and your responses I shorted the list down to these:

a. Canon F1
b. Nikon F2
c. Pentax LX

I didn't mentioned the other tags in their names (for ex. AS, N), because I'm not familiar with those yet.
What do you think about these? In some cases the price range can be expanded.
Any lens recommendation for these?
Thanks.
 

Mackinaw

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You can't so wrong with any camera on your list. All are great.

You're at the "personal preference" part of your search. If you have the opportunity to try and sample any of these the cameras, do so. How a camera feels in YOUR hands will trump any opinions we can offer. Plus anything you hear now will be fanboy talk, nothing more.

Jim B.
 

Les Sarile

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After a bit of searching and your responses I shorted the list down to these:

a. Canon F1
b. Nikon F2
c. Pentax LX

I didn't mentioned the other tags in their names (for ex. AS, N), because I'm not familiar with those yet.
What do you think about these? In some cases the price range can be expanded.
Any lens recommendation for these?
Thanks.

Is that the aperture & shutter priority capable Canon New F-1 or manual body Canon F-1?

The AS for the F2 designates the finder attached to the body which will influence cost and functionaility.

You can read extensively about these three bodies at http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/
 
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Alan Gales

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Do you think it's better to jump right to Medium Format?

Why not? Shooting with a 645 with eye level finder, ttl flash and matrix metering isn't much different than a 35mm camera. Of course using a waist level finder and separate meter is different.

Comparing 35mm to medium format, each has it's strengths and weaknesses but don't be intimidated by medium format. It's not hard at all.

Now moving up to large format and using sheet film and camera movements is a lot different.
 

GRHazelton

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I'm a Pentax shooter and can comment on the LX. It is a wonderful camera, excellent ergonomics, (for me!) especially with the Grip B added. Very smooth acting wind, metering (center weighted) is very accurate and consistent. Auto exposure from about EV -6 to +20. As someone above commented auto exposures can run to many, many minutes. Since the meter reads off the film changes in lighting are compensated for, and there's no need for a viewfinder blind. The camera is weather sealed, although after so many years that may not be dependable.

Ideally you could handle examples of the three you mention. A camera is ideally a very personal possession, I'm sure many of us have bought a camera and never "warmed" to it. For example, the Pentax is quite small for a professional system camera, this may be a factor in your decision. I've found that the winder, which is not too hard to find, adds a little heft which is nice, and also furnishes power rewind. Pretty cool!

Now as with any camera there are downsides. Any old camera probably needs a professional CLA; I'm not sure Pentax is still servicing the LX. Eric Hendrickson in Tennessee is the Pentax expert, his charges are moderate, but the LX is intrinsically expensive to work on, especially if the integrity of the body seals is preserved. Beware the "sticky mirror" syndrome, in which the mirror action is very slow, or the mirror refuses to descend. A proper CLA would run about $150. As with any old camera be sure you can return it in case there's a problem. With the LX make sure the speeds below X sync work; they are electronically controlled and thus vulnerable. If it will furnish a timed proper exposure of, say, five minutes, it should be okay. BTW, X sync is only about 1/70 sec, pretty slow by today's standards. So it goes with a horizontally run titanium foil shutter, I suppose.

An operating LX in reasonable condition would cost probably $350 to $400.

While the LX can use hundreds of lenses, back to the first K mount, Pentax label lenses aren't as commonly available as, for example, Canon or Nikon. While the LX is a full system camera, finding a motor drive or a 250 exposure back for the LX is not easy, nor is finding the various system viewfinders, nor the interchangeable screens. BTW, while Ricoh uses a variant of the K mount it has an extra pin which can "lock" the lens onto the mount of a Pentax digital SLR. I don't know whether this applies to the LX. Like the Hassie the LX uses special lugs for the neck strap, if your purchase doesn't come with them there is a strap with compatible ends from B&H or Adorama. Not as attractive, however.

I also have a Pentax 645n, like Alan Gales says its like shooting with a big, noisy 35mm SLR. I'd suggest the 645n, which has a better viewfinder than the original 645, autofocus with confirmation beep/icon, film edge exposure imprinting, 16 exp per roll rather than 15, and a really intuitive operation. Wonderful lenses, but no third party producers. Note that the longest reasonably priced tele is 200mm, about like a 135mm on a 35mm camera. With a hard to find adaptor the 645 can use lenses from the Pentax 67, but that camera's long lenses are pretty costly. It uses inserts, so no mid-roll switching. BTW, the 220 inserts are usually cheaper than the 120 and are easily "converted" to 120 with a tiny screwdriver and a little care. :wink:

Ken Rockwell, so often dismissed, has a good "take" on the 645n and a few of its lenses.
 

Andrey

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Interesting question.

Contax G2 and leica are the only different cameras. You can get a FED or a bessa for less if you want to have a rangefinder.

The rest are quite similar, with some feature differences which dictate prices and choices. Just flash sync speed, viewfinder quality - brightness, ease of focusing, compatibility with glasses, weight... self timer... ability to take a motor drive... need for batteries... But they're all SLRs from the same period. Fundamentally they'll handle the same and the 50mm lenses would probably be sharper and have higher contrast than the helios.

Do you need a 1.4 normal lens? if you don't, there's a number of rangefinders with non-removable lenses. They'd be like a "leica", but would cost 60 bucks. Lenses around f/2 are common. F/2.8 lenses are more compact. 35 RC, canonet, yashica electric and such
 

fstop

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After a bit of searching and your responses I shorted the list down to these:

a. Canon F1
b. Nikon F2
c. Pentax LX

I didn't mentioned the other tags in their names (for ex. AS, N), because I'm not familiar with those yet.
What do you think about these? In some cases the price range can be expanded.
Any lens recommendation for these?
Thanks.

Given that choice, I would go for the Nikon, if you ever decide to move into a DSLR you can use your manual lenses. Portraits and landscapes don't need auto focus lenses.
 

GRHazelton

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Given that choice, I would go for the Nikon, if you ever decide to move into a DSLR you can use your manual lenses. Portraits and landscapes don't need auto focus lenses.

Also true of the Pentax LX, although lenses without the "A" on the aperture ring aren't as convenient.
 

Paul Howell

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I would consider a T 90 and Canon FD lens which are still inexpensive as are Minolta MD compaired to Pentax K or Nikon F which it seems to me are increasing in price as digital shooters are buying up the manual focus F and Ks. I had a T 90 with a few lens, 50 1.4, 28, 100, and a 135 prime and a couple of zooms. Just sold them last year as I have too many cameras as it is. The T 90 was the replacement for the New F 1. Other option a Minolta 202 and brace of lens.
 

elekm

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If image quality is important, you should consider a Yashica/Kyocera Contax and some Zeiss lenses. I would recommend the Contax 139 Quartz and a 50mm Planar as a start. This will cost only a bit more than the other cameras on your list.

The Yashica equivalent of the 139 Quartz is the FX-D and can use any Zeiss lens ... and Yashica lenses, of course, which also can be used on Contax bodies.
 
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flajcsi

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I'm a Pentax shooter and can comment on the LX. It is a wonderful camera, excellent ergonomics, (for me!) especially with the Grip B added. Very smooth acting wind, metering (center weighted) is very accurate and consistent. Auto exposure from about EV -6 to +20. As someone above commented auto exposures can run to many, many minutes. Since the meter reads off the film changes in lighting are compensated for, and there's no need for a viewfinder blind. The camera is weather sealed, although after so many years that may not be dependable.

Ideally you could handle examples of the three you mention. A camera is ideally a very personal possession, I'm sure many of us have bought a camera and never "warmed" to it. For example, the Pentax is quite small for a professional system camera, this may be a factor in your decision. I've found that the winder, which is not too hard to find, adds a little heft which is nice, and also furnishes power rewind. Pretty cool!

Now as with any camera there are downsides. Any old camera probably needs a professional CLA; I'm not sure Pentax is still servicing the LX. Eric Hendrickson in Tennessee is the Pentax expert, his charges are moderate, but the LX is intrinsically expensive to work on, especially if the integrity of the body seals is preserved. Beware the "sticky mirror" syndrome, in which the mirror action is very slow, or the mirror refuses to descend. A proper CLA would run about $150. As with any old camera be sure you can return it in case there's a problem. With the LX make sure the speeds below X sync work; they are electronically controlled and thus vulnerable. If it will furnish a timed proper exposure of, say, five minutes, it should be okay. BTW, X sync is only about 1/70 sec, pretty slow by today's standards. So it goes with a horizontally run titanium foil shutter, I suppose.

An operating LX in reasonable condition would cost probably $350 to $400.

While the LX can use hundreds of lenses, back to the first K mount, Pentax label lenses aren't as commonly available as, for example, Canon or Nikon. While the LX is a full system camera, finding a motor drive or a 250 exposure back for the LX is not easy, nor is finding the various system viewfinders, nor the interchangeable screens. BTW, while Ricoh uses a variant of the K mount it has an extra pin which can "lock" the lens onto the mount of a Pentax digital SLR. I don't know whether this applies to the LX. Like the Hassie the LX uses special lugs for the neck strap, if your purchase doesn't come with them there is a strap with compatible ends from B&H or Adorama. Not as attractive, however.

I also have a Pentax 645n, like Alan Gales says its like shooting with a big, noisy 35mm SLR. I'd suggest the 645n, which has a better viewfinder than the original 645, autofocus with confirmation beep/icon, film edge exposure imprinting, 16 exp per roll rather than 15, and a really intuitive operation. Wonderful lenses, but no third party producers. Note that the longest reasonably priced tele is 200mm, about like a 135mm on a 35mm camera. With a hard to find adaptor the 645 can use lenses from the Pentax 67, but that camera's long lenses are pretty costly. It uses inserts, so no mid-roll switching. BTW, the 220 inserts are usually cheaper than the 120 and are easily "converted" to 120 with a tiny screwdriver and a little care. :wink:

Ken Rockwell, so often dismissed, has a good "take" on the 645n and a few of its lenses.

Wow. Thank you for the detailed answer. It was very useful.
How about adapting m42 lenses?
 

mesantacruz

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I own an Canon A-1 as well as the F-1 New... the F-1 is in mint condition and but had to be CLA'd for a slow mirror for ($150). with budget of 300-400. getting the a-1 with say a 50 1.4 and 28mm as well as an 85 or a zoom is reasonable... if you get the F-1... you might have change to spare for the 50 1.4 and a wide angle... but you getting close to the 400 budget end.

i don't know if you shoot digital, or plan to ever shoot digital... but if you get a nikon F2... the lenses you get, will most likely fit onto a dslr... unless they are non-ai (not all non-ai lenses fit on digital)... Canon's FD on the other hand, is now unsupported, and can only fit with an adapter to shorter digital camera mounts like sony's e-mount (as the rest of other lenses)...


Also... there are three Canon F-1's... F-1, F-1n, and New F-1 or F-1 New..... i believe the accesories for the latest New F-1 don't fit on the other two. and the latest one is more battery dependent... without a battery it shoots 1/125 and up to 1/2000... so 1/60 and down does not function without a battery. Again i used the a-1 and there is a great difference in quality, but it shows in it's price, and the a-1 can take plenty of abuse, and performs very well.
 

elekm

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One thing about SLRs is the brightness of the focusing screen. I can't speak about some of these cameras, but the Contax 139 (and 137MD) have brighter viewing screens than my Nikons (F2A, EL2, F2 and Nikkormat FT3), Pentax KX and MX, Minolta XD11, Olympus OM-1 and OM-2 and any other camera that I own.

Where this comes into play is when you use something other than the standard lens. When you move to a slight slower lens, f/2.8 or slower, it's not uncommon for half of the split image to black out while you're trying to focus - unless you're eye is precisely centered.

Generally, however, you really can't go wrong with any of the cameras on your list. I would say that all of them will need to have new foam seals. But once that is done, you should have a good camera that should last you decades, provided that you don't beat the daylights out of your gear.

Check the focusing action of the Zenit lens. It's not uncommon for the lubrication on Soviet lenses to have congealed or hardened, making it difficult to focus.
 

Pioneer

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IMHO you will go a long way to find a finder screen brighter then the one that comes on the Pentax LX. I really wish they would have kept on developing that camera. They really did a great job on the first model.
 

GRHazelton

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Wow. Thank you for the detailed answer. It was very useful.
How about adapting m42 lenses?

M42 to K mount adaptors are available both from Pentax and others. They allow focussing to infinity, but no lens automation. I gather there are adaptors for 645 lenses to K mount but I know nothing about them. The LX doesn't use foam seals, BTW.
 

GRHazelton

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IMHO you will go a long way to find a finder screen brighter then the one that comes on the Pentax LX. I really wish they would have kept on developing that camera. They really did a great job on the first model.
Hear, hear! They had a strong competitor to the Nikon F3 and then sat on their hands. What a shame! For all intents and purposes there was only one model, with minor running changes, the major being an increase in the top ASA from 1600 to 3200.

BTW, I forgot to mention in my earlier post on the LX's faults a glaring omission in its feature set: It has no AE lock, which can be a PITA on occasion.
 

Suzan

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I've recently seen Nikon F3s in the 100 to 150 US$ range on e-Bay. I had an F2s and think they are a little more breakage prone. IIRC the F2as meter head was more given to problems than the other heads. My F2s ate batteries like candy.
 
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