i always knew this to be true on dial shutters but is this true with shutters like (older) betax where there are variable speeds inbetween the speeds?
True for dial-set Compurs, as you say. The recco to not change speeds on a cocked shutter was related to the high speed helper spring more than microscopic wear on the speed ring. Interesting point: Zeiss lenses on Hasselblad are ALWAYS speed changed on cocked shutter. Are they stupid or misleading us with erroneous engineering so we wear them out fast and have to buy replacements every 6 months?
This thread is in the large format section. I was talking about the rim set shutter such as Wollensak. You do what you want.
There has always been confusion as to the wisdom of changing shutter speeds on a cocked shutter. After spending a good many hours of re-working and studying an actual shutter, I can unequivocally say that it is not at all recommended. To clear up confusion as to the "why" of it is to first dispel worry of stripping a gear (in this case the Graphex shutter). There is no danger of instant destruction of that sort. You won't "break off"anything.
However, you will soon ruin any accuracy the shutter has, or had. The cocking of the shutter puts pressure upon the speed cam, which is made of a fairly soft brass. In this case the drive gear segment has a peg that rides on the speed setting cam. Turning the cam (changing speeds) causes wear in a short period of time, which increases the travel of the drive gear segment, which in turn causes speeds to grow slower and slower. The time frame for this wear is surprisingly short--on the order of mere weeks for an old-time newspaper photog with his Speed Graphic. Months at most.
When changing speeds with the shutter uncocked, the peg does not even touch the cam at all, so no wear. All this said, these iris shutters have such an infinitesimally small adjustment range that mere weather, hot or cold alone, can cause expansion or contraction issues as much as 3/4 of a stop. A shutter serviceman who slightly over-tightens the faceplate after a service job can add to the problem by another 1/2 stop. Additively, I can easily see that errors of a whole stop or more can occur when factoring in wear from changing speeds with the shutter cocked.
One f/stop is a lot. Anyone who spends half his darkroom time just making test strips can relate to the annoyance.
Don't change speeds on a cocked shutter.
The Compur and Prontor shutters of Hasselblad follow the same design as shutters for large format cameras.
Edit I'm talking about these America-made shutters with dials made out of chrome-plated cheap soft brass, and you guys are throwing German-made Compurs at me to dispel the advice.
Having serviced Graphex, Supermatic, Compur shutters the major cause for wear that results in a speed dial that has to be swedged to get the speeds correct is heavy use or running them until the stop working. The shutters that I have serviced that were run until they stopped working or were so far off that compensating was difficult were the ones that needed the most swedging to get correct. They were the ones that had broken parts. They are the ones that the speeds were all over the place requiring the most tweaking of a single speed or two to get them all within tolerance. The heavy wear shutters were consistent across the speed range and easier to adjust once cleaned and correctly lubed. All rim set shutters weather made by US or them other countries are similar in operation and mechanical make up. The pins, posts and levers that contact the main dial are all spring tensioned. In the uncocked state there is no tension applied to them so they put little pressure on the main dial which results in the dial being easier to turn than it is when the shutter is cocked.
Then there are those self cocking "press" shutters that are always in the cocked state until tripped.
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