Changing shutter speed with one finger

[Sirius Glass]

Two fingers with my Nikon SLRs, but I set the speed before I compose.

I used the term "fingers" loosely. I meant the thumb and index fingers.

 

[Alan Gales]

Buy a Nikon FE or any camera with aperture priority. Set the camera to aperture preferred and change the shutter speed by adjusting the aperture ring.

Or, switch to Olympus which has a shutter speed ring on the lens.

I shot a Contax 139 for many years. I almost always shot aperture preferred. It was quick. The only reason to switch to manual was for tricky lighting situations where I knew my meter was wrong. Even then I rarely switched to manual because I had a plus or minus two stops selector wheel for aperture preferred exposure.

If I only had a manual exposure camera I would do as Sirius suggests and set my shutter speed before composing the subject.

 

[jimjm]

I've got an FM and an FE-2, and the FM shutter dial is noticeably harder to turn with one finger. The knurling on the FE2 is more comfortable and the dial resistance is much less. I would suspect the FM2 incorporated the same design changes.

If you like everything else about your FM, try the FM-2.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Since I use 35mm cameras for casual photographing or when I am with other people and do not have the luxury of time, I use the programmed mode with ISO 400 film. That way I do not have to be concerned about a slow shutter speed.

 

[cooltouch]

Since you're probably most interested in staying within the Nikon ranks, I recommend that you just get used to using a battery-dependent SLR and get yourself an F3. The shutter speed dial is very easy to turn. You might become quickly annoyed with the F3's LCD meter readout, however. The only real alternatives are, as mentioned, the FE2 (and possibly the FM2, which might actually be a better choice than the F3) and one of the Nikkormats, such as the FT3. If you can find an FM2 to try, do so. But before you pull the trigger on an FM2, make sure it's an FM2n. There will be an N on the back of the top plate, next to the serial number. Main advantage to the N is it has flash sync at 1/250.

 

[Erik D. Herrmann Sr.]

The shutter speed dial should not be so stiff. It certainly isn't on my Nikon FE; I can easily turn the dial with one finger. Even with my pinky, if I wish to do so.

It wouldn't hurt to have the gears in your camera cleaned and lubricated. In other words, maybe it's time to send it out for a CLA. If your Nikon FM is otherwise in great shape and you use it often, having it serviced is a good idea. If done properly, the camera will then operate as if it had just come fresh off the assembly line.

I agree. A quick Google image search showed me that the FE and FM are laid out exactly alike and I have no problem at all with my FE.

 

[benjiboy]

I have two Canon F1n's on one l can change the shutter speeds with one finger on the other I can't, I also have two Canon New F1's I can change the shutter speeds with one finger on both of them, go figure.

 

[carlostaiwan]

I've got an FM and an FE-2, and the FM shutter dial is noticeably harder to turn with one finger. The knurling on the FE2 is more comfortable and the dial resistance is much less. I would suspect the FM2 incorporated the same design changes.

If you like everything else about your FM, try the FM-2.

Actually you are right, I think the problem were my FM, both of them were quite stiff. Maybe just a coincidence? I trade my silver FM for a Black FM2, and there was a huge difference. The FM2 was much more loose and easy to use

Since you're probably most interested in staying within the Nikon ranks, I recommend that you just get used to using a battery-dependent SLR and get yourself an F3. The shutter speed dial is very easy to turn. You might become quickly annoyed with the F3's LCD meter readout, however. The only real alternatives are, as mentioned, the FE2 (and possibly the FM2, which might actually be a better choice than the F3) and one of the Nikkormats, such as the FT3. If you can find an FM2 to try, do so. But before you pull the trigger on an FM2, make sure it's an FM2n. There will be an N on the back of the top plate, next to the serial number. Main advantage to the N is it has flash sync at 1/250.

I had the F3 in the past and I got really annoyed with teh small LCD, as I mentioned before, the FM2 is the perfect camera for me.

 

[saman13]

I don’t think it was just your FM. I’ve had 2 FMs and the shutter speed dials on them were significantly harder to turn than the 2 FEs I own. Easy to change with one finger on the FE, hard on the FM.
Glad you found a camera you enjoy using. That’s the most important part.

 

[macfred]

Nikon FM and Nikon F2 Photomic : left hand for supporting the camera and to focus the lens - right hand for changing speed (thumb and index finger) and for tripping the shutter (index finger).

 

[Svenedin]

Sadly the Pentax MX demands 2 fingers to change shutter speeds, at least my 3 examples do. I know, I know...THREE! Probably time for an intervention. I think that Olympus had a wizard solution with the OM series - focus, f stop AND shutter speed with the left hand! All concentric with the lens mount. If only my OM-4 didn't eat battery cells like M and M's.

When you are not using your OM-4 put the camera in “B” or the mechanical (marked in red) 1/60s. This shuts off all of the electronics -problem solved.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

When you are not using your OM-4 put the camera in “B” or the mechanical (marked in red) 1/60s. This shuts off all of the electronics -problem solved.

That doesn't always work, see the OM2 thread on battery consumption. An early OM4 is what led me to Nikon Fs, then Nikkormats, then F2s.... Thank you Olympus!
I now have an OM3, new in the box. Put a set of 357s in and it drained them in about 4 months, without using the camera and only two uses of the battery check. The OM1 is the only OM that doesn't seem to have these issues.

 

[Paul Howell]

Likely not in your wheel house, the Petri FTs are very to change with either or thumb, the Miranda Sensormate is tight hard to turn while the EE can be turned with a thumb. Of course all Minolta A mount AF bodies have either a button or wheel to change the speed.

 

[Svenedin]

That doesn't always work, see the OM2 thread on battery consumption. An early OM4 is what led me to Nikon Fs, then Nikkormats, then F2s.... Thank you Olympus!
I now have an OM3, new in the box. Put a set of 357s in and it drained them in about 4 months, without using the camera and only two uses of the battery check. The OM1 is the only OM that doesn't seem to have these issues.

I have 4 x OM4-Ti cameras and I’ve been using them (and an OM2n) for 30 years. I really don’t know what the fuss is about. SR44 batteries (silver oxide) are cheap. I bought 20 of them for £15 a few months ago. If your batteries were flattened in 4 months without using the camera then there wasn’t much point leaving batteries in it seeing as you weren’t even using it. Isn’t it considered sensible to remove batteries from unused equipment?

 

[E. von Hoegh]

I have 4 x OM4-Ti cameras and I’ve been using them (and an OM2n) for 30 years. I really don’t know what the fuss is about. SR44 batteries (silver oxide) are cheap. I bought 20 of them for £15 a few months ago. If your batteries were flattened in 4 months without using the camera then there wasn’t much point leaving batteries in it seeing as you weren’t even using it. Isn’t it considered sensible to remove batteries from unused equipment?

Yes indeedy. But pointless if you want to see if even the OM-3 considers cells equivalent to M&Ms. It does.

 

[Svenedin]

Yes indeedy. But pointless if you want to see if even the OM-3 considers cells equivalent to M&Ms. It does.

Oh I see. It was an experiment to see how long they lasted in an unused camera? Well 4 months per set, 3 sets a year would cost me £4.50 which is less than the cost of a roll of film so hardly a major outlay (but might be annoying). They last considerably longer in my OM4-Ti cameras than your experience but then the OM4-Ti is a later camera. I did have an OM4-Ti that did flatten batteries rather fast but that was a fault that I had fixed. It was not a design flaw but a fault that developed after I had had the camera for about 10 years. Anyway I've strayed way off topic for this thread.

 

[Eric Rose]

The Leica M5 is the best for this. You can make all adjustments without moving your eye from the viewfinder.

 

[dynachrome]

Minolta 600si

 

[Chan Tran]

Since you're probably most interested in staying within the Nikon ranks, I recommend that you just get used to using a battery-dependent SLR and get yourself an F3. The shutter speed dial is very easy to turn. You might become quickly annoyed with the F3's LCD meter readout, however. The only real alternatives are, as mentioned, the FE2 (and possibly the FM2, which might actually be a better choice than the F3) and one of the Nikkormats, such as the FT3. If you can find an FM2 to try, do so. But before you pull the trigger on an FM2, make sure it's an FM2n. There will be an N on the back of the top plate, next to the serial number. Main advantage to the N is it has flash sync at 1/250.

Even if you can change the shutter speed with 1 finger I wouldn't do so. Doing so is uncomfortable and putting too much force on the dial.

 

[OlyMan]

Put a set of 357s in and it drained them in about 4 months, without using the camera and only two uses of the battery check.

Is that considered a high battery drain? My phone needs charging every day unless I barely use it. The rechargeable battery in my Nikon D5000 is dead every four weeks whether I use the camera or not. In fact the cost of recharging all the devices myself and my family flatten on a daily or weekly basis is something I try hard not to think about. Is spending about £2 / $2 every four months on a pair of 357 watch batteries what all the fuss has been about for over 30 years? Where I live that doesn't even buy you a decent coffee.

Apologies to OP for taking it o/t. On cameras with a top-mounted shutter-speed dial, I find it's best to assess the scene and set the anticipated shutter speed before even bringing the camera to my eye, so all I then have to worry about is aperture and focus.

 

[Svenedin]

Is that considered a high battery drain? My phone needs charging every day unless I barely use it. The rechargeable battery in my Nikon D5000 is dead every four weeks whether I use the camera or not. In fact the cost of recharging all the devices myself and my family flatten on a daily or weekly basis is something I try hard not to think about. Is spending about £2 / $2 every four months on a pair of 357 watch batteries what all the fuss has been about for over 30 years? Where I live that doesn't even buy you a decent coffee.

Apologies to OP for taking it o/t. On cameras with a top-mounted shutter-speed dial, I find it's best to assess the scene and set the anticipated shutter speed before even bringing the camera to my eye, so all I then have to worry about is aperture and focus.

It isn't that far off topic. The OM cameras, as we know, have the shutter speed, aperture and focus all in rings around the lens so although not adjustable "with one finger" they are all adjustable with the hand that is holding the lens. This "battery drain" gripe has become an internet meme or accepted wisdom. It would be a shame if the OP was put off even considering the excellent OM cameras (especially the OM4-Ti) due to a fuss about a "problem" that really isn't such a big deal. It should be remembered that the OM cameras are getting quite old and some of them will develop faults that flatten batteries (internal shorts etc). That does not mean that because someone on the internet had a camera that flattened batteries in short measure that all of the cameras have the same problem. As I said in an earlier post, I have an OM4-Ti that developed a battery draining fault but I had it fixed (it was caused by the camera getting wet whilst climbing Mount Kenya). To further dispel this issue, even if you happen to find yourself with batteries that have suddenly gone flat (and you should carry a spare set of batteries in your bag) then there is a mechanical 1/60s available that works without batteries (OM3, OM4 and OM4-Ti). Even more off topic, the uber expensive OM3-Ti is entirely mechanical across all shutter speeds.

Picture for anyone not familiar with the OM shutter speed arrangement (the red "60" is mechanical):

 

[E. von Hoegh]

It isn't that far off topic. The OM cameras, as we know, have the shutter speed, aperture and focus all in rings around the lens so although not adjustable "with one finger" they are all adjustable with the hand that is holding the lens. This "battery drain" gripe has become an internet meme or accepted wisdom. It would be a shame if the OP was put off even considering the excellent OM cameras (especially the OM4-Ti) due to a fuss about a "problem" that really isn't such a big deal. It should be remembered that the OM cameras are getting quite old and some of them will develop faults that flatten batteries (internal shorts etc). That does not mean that because someone on the internet had a camera that flattened batteries in short measure that all of the cameras have the same problem. As I said in an earlier post, I have an OM4-Ti that developed a battery draining fault but I had it fixed (it was caused by the camera getting wet whilst climbing Mount Kenya). To further dispel this issue, even if you happen to find yourself with batteries that have suddenly gone flat (and you should carry a spare set of batteries in your bag) then there is a mechanical 1/60s available that works without batteries (OM3, OM4 and OM4-Ti). Even more off topic, the uber expensive OM3-Ti is entirely mechanical across all shutter speeds.

Picture for anyone not familiar with the OM shutter speed arrangement (the red "60" is mechanical):

That's absolutely untrue. My OM-4, purchased late 1984 had an even worse problem right out of the box, and it wasn't the only one. It took Olympus some time to figure it out.
The -3 and -4 Olympi have perhaps the most versatile meter ever put into a 35mm camera, said meter is useless without a battery. Gossen meters, Nikons F & F2, Nikkormats, Spotmatic 1000, Spotmatic F, all get years out of a cell or battery, because they (except the Spotmatic F. This camera has a separate CDS cell connected to a transistor switching circuit that actually WORKS to shut the meter off) have OFF switches. The -3 is at least useable without power, the -4 is a paperweight.
I don't know if my -3 had this problem when new, I don't think it's ever had film in it. But, it's an early one so I'm not too confident.

 

[Svenedin]

That's absolutely untrue. My OM-4, purchased late 1984 had an even worse problem right out of the box, and it wasn't the only one. It took Olympus some time to figure it out.
The -3 and -4 Olympi have perhaps the most versatile meter ever put into a 35mm camera, said meter is useless without a battery. Gossen meters, Nikons F & F2, Nikkormats, Spotmatic 1000, Spotmatic F, all get years out of a cell or battery, because they (except the Spotmatic F. This camera has a separate CDS cell connected to a transistor switching circuit that actually WORKS to shut the meter off) have OFF switches. The -3 is at least useable without power, the -4 is a paperweight.
I don't know if my -3 had this problem when new, I don't think it's ever had film in it. But, it's an early one so I'm not too confident.

There were some early OM-4 cameras with a fault and Olympus offered to replace the circuit boards in affected camera with an updated circuit. AFAIK all OM4-Ti cameras used the updated board.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

There were some early OM-4 cameras with a fault and Olympus offered to replace the circuit boards in affected camera with an updated circuit. AFAIK all OM4-Ti cameras used the updated board.

That's my understanding. Don't get me wrong, I rather like the Olympi. But I like stuff that works without constantly thinking about carrying spare cells more.
The -3 would be ideal, I'm going to make a switched battery compartment cover a la Brian VS's idea.

 

[benjiboy]

I suggest that if it bothers you so much you take it to a camera repair shop, and ask them to service it for you..