JNP - don't get worked up. Removing all the secondary hurdles in advance is often the most efficient way to teach someone how to run down the track most smoothly. Start from the real start. It's a different race. Digital analogies just get in the way.
Instead, imagine a film camera which doesn't take a roll at all. No different, exposure-wise. And in this case, some wild film latitude myth is just getting perpetuated by a wrong conclusion why it somehow turned out anyway, which inevitably goes back to the basic question of metering itself. Something just doesn't add up.
Well, one way or another, as long as someone gets from Point A to B one way or another, that's all that ultimately counts, and I wish them luck. But standing in line at the lab to drop of or pick up my own C41 processed work (that's all I personally use any commercial lab for), or at the camera store buying film etc, I often have opportunity to chat with people of various ages transitioning from digital imaging to real film. And half the battle is just clearing their minds of all that unnecessary complication, as if a bulldozer were needed. Just start over, learn the basics from the beginning, instead of endless "lost in translation" complications.
Lost in translation complications? I have no idea what you are talking about. Yes getting to point B is what counts, if the lab screws up you can hitchhike.
Doesn't do much color though.XP2 is supposed to be good for variability.
XP2 is a perfect example of the blaaaaah tonality of a chromogenic product once it goes black and white. There's a big penalty to all that alleged "latitude", which really indicated just a very long toe with poor differentiation, whether b&w tonality per se, or hue distinction in the case of amateur color neg films.
But despite all those grossly over / under crayon or paint chip tests we've all done at one time or another testing the latitude of various color films, once one starts getting out in left field, it's never simply a matter of darker or lighter, but of actual dye curve crossovers and hue shifts. And much of this can't be simply fixed in Fauxtoshop. It's like mixing up concrete; once all the gravel and sand and cement sets up, it's very difficult to get it apart again. And as insulting as it might sound, most color photographers have rather poor color perception, with rather mediocre expectations. Any halfway good watercolor painter is ten times better at it.
The film manufacturers know all this, so wisely offer amateur products which at least tend to dump all the warmish neutrals into the bin of "pleasing skintones" (at the expense of the purity of related hues, of course). Anyone can make a box of Crayolas look loud in a film ad or whatever. The real question is about the integrity of the relatively "neutral hues" - it takes the right product and serious printing skills to keep those intact the whole way. Professional color standards like the MacBeth Color Checker Chart were very thoughtfully designed with that in mind.
When I shoot medium format, I bracket +1 and -1 as a practice. What I noticed was that there was only one of the three that was the best in color and exposure. Of course, I was shooting chromes. So they're more sensitive than negative color.Well, that's really the key to learning the truth about any film new to you. I always first "waste" a roll of 120 film doing those same kind of bracketing tests myself. Then I do an "ideal" frame or two with even a color temp meter in hand, and light balancing cc filters if necessary too. But in all of em I rely on a clean unfaded MacBeth Chart with its excellent neutral gray scale as well as color patches.
I'm thinking we should all give up photography and take up knitting. We are not worthy...When I saw #56 I knew we could rely on you, Drew, to keep us "on the straight and narrow" in terms of photographic reality and curb our tendency to not see the truth because of rose coloured spectacles Most of us seem to be your wayward children
At least that is the way it comes across to me
pentaxuser
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