Caused by twirl agitation?

[Doremus Scudder]

After looking at the negatives, I can see the increased density on one side (the top of the tank, I'm assuming) and some mottling/streaking. I don't really see any evidence of a light leak. If there were on on your Yashicamat, it would originate from a side; your streaking seems to begin and end inside the frame, hence I'm thinking it is a developing artifact.

For me, this all points to agitation; insufficient initial agitation (mottling/streaking) and agitation that causes a bit of surge along one side, developing it more than the rest of the film (increased density). I'm beginning to think that twirling may not be a good method; I've always used inversion and the famed "torus" motion for all my roll films. 120 film seems to be more susceptible to agitation defects. I'd try varying your agitation motion (less regular, torus one way and then the other, etc.), maybe try a bit less developer (550ml?) and make sure initial agitation is long and vigorous enough. Try a complete 30 seconds if you aren't already and use inversion. A water pre-soak may help as well (I always used one). With the pre-soak, the timing of pouring in the developer is not quite as critical. I had Nikor tanks, and filled them in less than 10 seconds. If you can do that, then you can put on the lid tightly and use inversion agitation. I know how frustrating this can be... keep at it and you'll find a combination that works for you.

Best,

Doremus

 

[MattKing]

Looks like not enough developer in the tank.

Except that would result in a dark area in the skies (in the print).

 

[Hatchetman]

Yes you are correct when you think about it.

 

[Kirks518]

I'm still kind of leaning towards a camera issue. When I say light leak in this case, I'm not referring to the seals on the back film door. I'm thinking more like something may be up with the black 'paint' (light absorbing areas) inside the lens or the body. The area of concern is only inside the frame, so a rear seal wouldn't be a cause. But if light is bouncing around inside the lens or the body where it shouldn't be, because of an issue with the flocking/paint, it could cause something like this, especially in exposures with lots of brightness (sky). The area of concern is opposite the location of the sun/light source, so it could be stray light (sort of like flare) reflecting inside.

I don't see the same issue on the adjacent frames, although they may be there. OP, on the two adjacent frames, do they also show the problem? If they don't, I would find it difficult to fathom it being a developing issue. That's my primary reasoning for it being a camera issue.

 

[Nige]

I have two '2 reel' System 4 Paterson tanks, no idea if one or both are Super System 4, but one (older) has always required the lid to be 'burped' to get it to seal where the newer one requires serious pushing to get the lid on. The older one I can pour in developer, wack on the lid burping it in the process and invert all very quickly. The newer one is decidedly slower, so my routine (for both tanks) is pour developer, use swizzle stick to rotate reel back and forth a couple of times, add lid and invert a couple of times. When doing 4x5 sheets as tacos, I rock/sway the tank back and forwards few times before adding the lid since the swizzle stick would do nothing. I then invert the tank 3 times each minute, rotating tank during inversions. I do my inversions 'medium'. I figure I want to create some action in the tank, but not to violent as to create froth. Works for me

 

[JW PHOTO]

bvy,
After reading through this whole thing I think it might have something to do with the camera you are using. Not that the 124G is bad, but it does have a few quirks. I also have a 124G and love it's results when you get everything right. The one quirk is in harsh direct light like the lesser exposed example you posted. The light is coming from a low angle on the right side and it looks like the light part or edge is on the opposite side of the image. That would be slightly darker on the negative. The right side of the negative, at least on my monitor, doesn't seem to have the same problem. I think it might be a reflection problem on the inside of the camera and not a light leak. There have been many reports of the 124G cameras having inadequate baffling or flocking internally. People actually buy flocking material and line the inside of the camera to prevent reflections from showing up as flare on the negative. If it's a developing/processing problem it would show on both sides of the negative/print. Search "Yashica 124G flocking problem". John W

 

[banandrew]

Very interesting, I mentioned earlier that I saw a similar problem. Turns out it was also shot on a yashicamat 124g with harsh light coming from the opposite side of where the bright band appeared. I'll look into the flocking thing you mentioned.

 

[JW PHOTO]

Very interesting, I mentioned earlier that I saw a similar problem. Turns out it was also shot on a yashicamat 124g with harsh light coming from the opposite side of where the bright band appeared. I'll look into the flocking thing you mentioned.

I just did a google search on what I suggested above and sure enough the 124G is there. I'll try to remember where I bought my self-adhesive black flocking paper and post it. John W

 

[Xmas]

Cut a delinquent frame from strip and fit it in the scanner holder at 90 degrees.

If the fault moves...

And yes YMs need more baffle and flocking.

 

[bvy]

I already did the scan at 90 degrees, and the fault is in the same place.

Thanks everyone. I'll look again at the camera. These were all shot over two days in the dead of winter (no snow) and with some sun on the first day. Not that that means much. I'll try to post more scans later, where I see a few other strange things happening.