Carryover with drum development

[Deckled Edge]

After many years of tray development, I finally took the suggestions of many and tried drums. Gosh! My negs have never looked better--especially the 7x17s. I have done a half-dozen each in 3 formats, using 8x10, 11x14, and 16x20 drums. The results, on Efke PL 100 M, *look fine*.
But wait. I used to fuss about carrying over 10 drops of one solution into the next 4 liter tray. Now I see 5 times that amount going into 1/60th solution, that no amount of shaking and gyration can remove from the drums. I foresaw that problem and follow each solution with a greater than recommended (> 2 oz. for 8x10; > 8 oz. for 16x20) distilled water rinse.
My drums come with instructions for printing color, and I have read several "how to" posts here in the forums, but I have a nagging question.
What should I be doing about time and volume (and ? number) of rinses between development steps to insure that these great looking negatives are, in fact, archivally processed, and don't stain, mottle, or crud up sometime down the road?

 

[Photo Engineer]

That is why a stop bath is used. A prewet is recommended, and a tray wash for prints is suggested.

PE

 

[Lopaka]

I run all my film on a JOBO and have had no problems. I do use a stop after the developer for B&W. If you are not using an acid fix, use plain water. One rinse of same volume as dev is enough. I do 4 water changes rinse on the machine after fixing (helps rinse out the funnel) then wash the film off the machine.

When I do E-6 I use 4 water rinses after 1st dev then proceed through the other steps.

Bob

 

[Photo Engineer]

Well, due to carryover and drum design, the Jobo carries over a considerable amount more developer into the rinse and it allows development to continue. In addition, the final wash is less efficient. I remove prints to a holding tray and rewash them after a session. When doing film, I take the film off of the drum and wash it with a Jobo washer or something similar as per Jobo's instructions.

However, you do what works for you.

PE

 

[Deckled Edge]

That is why a stop bath is used. A prewet is recommended, and a tray wash for prints is suggested.

PE

I am actually using 2 2-minute prewashes, the first with double the recommended volume.
I use Kodak Stop Bath after the HC 110 (b) development. Then I rinse with distilled water for 1 minute before the 2 minute fix with hardener (this is Efke, after all).
Following 4 minutes in 1:4 Hypoclear, I wash negs (8x10 and 11x14) in a print washer for 1 hour. The 7x17s don't fit, so get 5 changes in a tray. Everything gets another rinse in a tray with PhotoFlow prior to hanging.
This seems to me to be enough to qualify as archival, but I need to know if I'm missing a step, or 3.

 

[Photo Engineer]

I use an 11x14 tray of still water to hold prints during a session, and then when I'm done, I then wash in running water with a tray siphon for the desired time.

What you are doing seems overkill by using hypcolear and then washing for 1 hour. IDK. I have not tested the stability, but a 1 hour wash should be enough all by itself.

PE

 

[Swift Raven]

I use (2) 1 minute plain water rinses between the developer and fix. After the fix I again run (2) rinses as much to rinse out the drum & lift as to give the negs a preliminary wash. After that I remove the negatives from the 3010 drum and wash them in a tray. As for the archival quality, at 54 years old, I only want them to last another 20 years or so. After that I could give a rip.

 

[imazursky]

I use a Phototherm rotary tube drum processor.
It uses a water stop and the negs are great.
No problems at all.