Carbon Transfer Print: Monte Lake Fire

[Andrew O'Neill]

 

[koraks]

Ah, I can relate to that one. Especially the fidgeting with the lens prior to making the exposure! Too many mistakes made at that stage, and I'll continue to make them....

When you show the negative I was also surprised at how thin it was, given that the video is about carbon transfer. I see you solved it by going hybrid and that works a treat. For my carbon transfers, I now develop in non-staining developers and then run the neg a couple of times through chromium intensifier to build up contrast, and then print on DAS carbon. Coincidentally, I was doing some today; I shot those early this month (also 8x10), then intensified the negs a few days later, made some tissue a few days ago and have been printing them over the last couple of days and in particular today:

They look a little thin, but that's because they're double transfers and they are now (save the one on the right) on their temporary supports, which is a transparent film and they always look eerily thin as a transparency. Transferred to paper the density is a lot better.

I really like dichromate for intensification; it's pretty much the only purpose I still use it for. For the actual carbon transfer printing, I've moved to DAS and I'm never ever going back to dichromate again. It's just a major fuss & hassle compared to the ease of DAS once you get it down. For negative intensification, I've done some brief testing with permanganate instead of dichromate and it seems to work - but it's slower than dichromate and I'm not yet sure it's quite as effective. I'm planning to do a blog on intensification one of these days.

 

[Ben 4]

What a lovely final print! I too was surprised at how thin the original negative was—but I've never done carbon transfer (and honestly know very little about the process). I'll have to read up a bit more. Any recommended resources for the basics?

--Ben

 

[koraks]

Any recommended resources for the basics?

I started here, years ago, and it's still a good resource: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Carbon/carbon.html
The main limitation is that it discusses only dichromate as a sensitizer, which isn't particularly benign and it's even banned in the EU, so can be difficult to obtain. The most-used alternative, DAS, works slightly differently, and comes with a couple of pros and cons. One resource that describes its use (as well as dichromate) very well is the popular book by Sandy King, Don Nelson and John Lockhart: https://www.routledge.com/Carbon-Tr...ary/King-Nelson-Lockhart/p/book/9781138353831 If you're serious about wanting to explore carbon transfer, I'd recommend this book over any web page. The online resources are great to start out, as a means of inspiration or as an add-on to a good understanding of the basics. The latter (and more) is provided by King et al.'s book.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

@koraks I believe I contributed to that book ... Yup, the negative came out thinner than anticipated. Digital neg to the rescue!
@Ben 4 I have a series on my channel...At the end of the video above, there is a link to part 1.

 

[koraks]

I believe I contributed to that book

I'm sure you did! In fact, the second part of the book, the part that features a number of contemporary carbon printers and the part where you're included with a few prints, is very worthwhile.

@Ben 4 I have a series on my channel...At the end of the video above, there is a link to part 1.

Maybe to offer a complementary resource, then: https://tinker.koraks.nl/photograph...you-need-to-get-started-with-carbon-transfer/
This blog covers the process more from a DAS than a dichromate point of view, so it's truly complementary!

 

[Ben 4]

Thanks to both of you for the tips!

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Just remember, if you use a dichromate, you should neutralise the mating bath water (vitamin C is great for that), which contains the brunt of the dichromate. Wear gloves!

 

[Ben 4]

Gone are the days, it appears, when you could buy carbon tissue from Bostick and Sullivan?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Gone are the days, it appears, when you could buy carbon tissue from Bostick and Sullivan?

Yes, I believe they stopped a few years ago. Never did use it, though. I prefer making own, as do majority of us carbonators. We can control tissue thickness, colour, etc.

 

[Rick A]

Yes, I believe they stopped a few years ago. Never did use it, though. I prefer making own, as do majority of us carbonators. We can control tissue thickness, colour, etc.

I've been making my own tissue since day one, I enjoy experimenting with colors.

 

[koraks]

Gone are the days, it appears, when you could buy carbon tissue from Bostick and Sullivan?

As I recall, it was a fairly thin and high pigmented tissue. Since so much of the printing characteristics is determined by the tissue, it would be really limiting to have to use a single type of tissue for everything. Moreover, making tissue isn't particularly difficult. It mostly requires patience.

 

[Ben 4]

As I recall, it was a fairly thin and high pigmented tissue. Since so much of the printing characteristics is determined by the tissue, it would be really limiting to have to use a single type of tissue for everything. Moreover, making tissue isn't particularly difficult. It mostly requires patience.

Got it—I understand.

 

[Rick A]

As I recall, it was a fairly thin and high pigmented tissue. Since so much of the printing characteristics is determined by the tissue, it would be really limiting to have to use a single type of tissue for everything. Moreover, making tissue isn't particularly difficult. It mostly requires patience.

Patience - YES. Mixing glop is no big deal, pouring tissue, well lets just say you need to have other things going on at the same time. Pour and wait, I set a timer for 15 minutes. Pull up a tissue too soon and you get to scrape up a mess and start all over again.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I blow lightly on the surface to check its jiggleness. Lots of jiggle, not ready to hang. Very little jiggle, it's ready. Setting time depends on glop temp when pouring, room temp, room RH, tissue size, thickness...Summers take longer, Winters much shorter. As conditions are ideal in the Winter months, I do most of my Carbon Transfer printing then. It's cold, dark and rainy. Who wants to be out in that anyways!

 

[Rick A]

I blow lightly on the surface to check its jiggleness. Lots of jiggle, not ready to hang. Very little jiggle, it's ready. Setting time depends on glop temp when pouring, room temp, room RH, tissue size, thickness...Summers take longer, Winters much shorter. As conditions are ideal in the Winter months, I do most of my Carbon Transfer printing then. It's cold, dark and rainy. Who wants to be out in that anyways!

In summer my DR temp never gets above 21c, this time of year around 16c. I set my timer for 15 minutes so I don't get in a rush if it needs more time I gladly give it. I rushed it one time, blewon the tissue and it seemed ready until I picked it up and the center slid off. How many letters does AAaargh have in it (followed by a few expletives). For melting glop I use a chocolate melter that was bought for $1 at a thrift shop, holds temp between 46-51c.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Well, I don't pull the tissue off of the pouring station quickly. I slowly lift up from one corner. Then stop. If I don't see any shifting, then slowly remove it completely and hang.

 

[Rick A]

Well, I don't pull the tissue off of the pouring station quickly. I slowly lift up from one corner. Then stop. If I don't see any shifting, then slowly remove it completely and hang.

It was one of my early mistakes. I still feel myself tending to be rushing and in a hurry.