Canon T90: Tutorial for DIY service and repair; excursus technical details

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Tutorial needed?

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    Votes: 4 80.0%
  • No

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  • See my comments in the thread

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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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Interestingly, the LED lights up at just 1 volt of forward voltage. I'm familiar with values of 2 volts and higher, but I'm no expert.

The structure of the LED is also interesting.

I wonder if this isn't a light bulb with a filament?
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Interaction between mirror, aperture control and FDn lenses

To better understand the interaction between mirror, aperture control and lens, I take a look at the removed mirror box (not complete) of a T90.


1.jpg


Front view, the mirror is cocked and ready to fire.


2.jpg


Aperture control, rewind site.


3.jpg


Mirror mechanism, release side.


4.jpg


View from above.


5.jpg


View from below.


6.jpg


I use the probe to pull the armature away from the release electromagnet.

This corresponds to the current flow through the coil on the magnet when it is triggered, which releases the armature.


7.jpg


The mirror has triggered.


8.jpg


I tension the mirror.


9.jpg


The mirror is folded down and ready to be released again.


10.jpg


Now I attach a FDn 50/1.8 to the mirror box.

The aperture ring is in the automatic position (A).

The mirror is still tensioned.


11.jpg


Front view, with the mirror folded down.

The subject can be viewed through the viewfinder (no longer present here).


12.jpg


View of the aperture control.


13.jpg


Using the probe, I release the aperture via a lever (white arrow).

The wiper moves down over the flush plate (magenta arrow).

The aperture control locking pawl is not engaged yet (blue arrow).


14.jpg


Now I release the mirror.

The locking pawl engages.


15.jpg


The aperture is closed to the minimum value (f = 22).
 
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Andreas Thaler

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16.jpg


Now I set aperture f = 4 manually.


17.jpg


I release the aperture.

The wiper moves a little over the flush plate.

The locking pawl has not engaged.


18.jpg


Now I trigger the mirror, the locking pawl engages.


19.jpg


The lens is stopped down to f = 4.


My understanding of the sequence in automatic mode (A) is
  • that, when the T90 is triggered, the aperture first closes.
  • To do this, the aperture electromagnet is triggered electronically, releases a lever which clears the wiper moving down the flush plate.
  • I triggered this lever manually with the probe.
  • If the aperture is larger, the wiper moves less downwards.
  • If the aperture is smaller, the wiper moves more downwards.
  • The locking pawl secures the wiper in the respective position as soon as the mirror is released via the release magnet.
  • In short, the aperture magnet starts the closing of the aperture and the release magnet stops it at the right time, depending on the aperture value.
  • The gold-plated contact track on the flush plate, together with the movable wiper, reports the respective aperture position to the control electronics of the T90.
  • The whole process is synchronized and takes place in milliseconds.

The manual mode with aperture pre-selection on the lens should only differ in that the aperture control clutch on the lens controls the position of the wiper on the flush plate mechanically.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Here are the FDn coupling elements in the mirror box and on the lens:

00.jpg


0.jpg


Yellow: stop down lever in the mirror box and corresponding stop down clutch on the FDn lens.

Turquoise: aperture control lever in the mirror box and corresponding aperture control clutch on the FDn lens.

I attached the bayonet ring of a T90 to the lens to simulate the position of the aperture when the lens is attached.


The stop-down lever in the mirror box (yellow) always moves fully toward the release side when the shutter is triggered.

The aperture control lever in the mirror box (tourqoise) determines the aperture setting and has two modes:
  1. In automatic mode (A on the aperture ring of the lens), its movement is electronically controlled by the T90. It moves less for large apertures and further down for small apertures.
  2. In manual mode (aperture selected on the lens), the aperture control clutch on the lens moves to the appropriate position, thus setting the aperture.



That all is my assumption, unfortunately I have not found any description of these sequences and correlations in my technical documents.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Aside from general interest, these insights are important for troubleshooting a problem on the T90 featured in this thread.

The aperture only closes to f/8 in both automatic and manual mode.

When I remove the mirror box, I now know that I have to inspect the aperture control lever, its mechanics, and its controls.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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000.jpg


The position of the two electromagnets on the mirror box of the T90 (rewind side):
  • release magnet (turquoise)
  • aperture magnet (magenta, partly hidden)
 
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Andreas Thaler

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AVO* adjustment: Setting the maximum lens aperture on the T90

In Av (aperture priority) mode, the lens aperture is set electronically using the control wheel. The lens aperture ring is set to „A“ for automatic.


1.jpg


In order to calculate the exposure, the T90 needs to know what the maximum aperture is.

In the FDn system, this is transmitted from the lens to the camera via the full aperture signal pin on the lens bayonet.

As a counterpart the maximum aperture control pin is located in the mirror box of the T90 (green arrow).


1a.jpg


1b.jpg


This pin is pressed in by the signal pin on the lens more or less depending on the light intensity of the lens.

The different high of the signal pin stands for the corresponding maximum aperture value.


Flush plate

On the flush plate on top of the mirror box there are contact tracks (switches) and wipers for transmitting aperture settings and maximum lens aperture to the electronic control system of the T90.


5.jpg


The flush plate with contact brush on contact track, which transmits aperture values to the electronic camera control with its respective position.


6.jpg


Flush plate removed.


7.jpg


AVO contacts (switches) on a second board located behind the flush plate with wipers for transmitting maximum lens aperture to the camera.


The AVO system can be adjusted

using a screw in the maximum aperture control pin.

The Canon service manual provides height information for the pin, which is measured with a depth gauge to an accuracy of 1/100 mm. Alternatively, „known good“ 1.8 and a 2.0 FDn lenses can be used.

The screw is then adjusted until the correct maximum aperture (light intensity) of the lens is displayed on the LCD of the T90.

On my T90 featured in this thread, the small apertures are not closed far enough.

When checking the AVO setting, I saw that in Av mode my FDn 50/1.8 can only be set up to f = 2.0.

I corrected this by adjusting the maximum aperture control pin.


2.jpg


To do this, a small drop of acetone has to be applied to the screw to loosen a seal.


3.jpg


After a few minutes, the screw can be turned using a 0.9 mm flathead screwdriver. Be careful, it is made of soft brass.


4.jpg


After the correction, the maximum apertures on my FDn 50/1.8 and 35/2.0 are displayed correctly.

This has also improved the formation of the small apertures in Av and Tv modes. When set manually, the openings are still too large.


To do

Larry Lyells in the SPT journal:

For erratic exposures, you can
check the light transmission in AV
mode. If the diaphragm opening is
inconsistent, the problem is
probably a dirty aperture magnet or
flush plate.
If the diaphragm
opening is consistent, check the
shutter speeds in TV mode.
Inconsistent shutter speeds may indi-
cate dirty shutter magnets.

I will therefore check the AVO switches with a multimeter and clean them, as well as the switches on the flush plate, the associated wipers and the aperture magnet.

I will also look at the function of the aperture control mechanism; I have gained experience with this in the last few days.


X.jpg


10.jpg


9.jpg


The binary values of the AVO switches can be measured at their cable connections (red, brown, grey, yellow) on the flexible circuit board. For this the mirror box does not have to be removed.

There should only be two clearly separated voltage ranges for high and low voltage to measure.

11.jpg


A table with the corresponding binary values for the connections can be found in the Canon Service Manual.


Additionally, the T90 switches to EEE/Help when setting smaller apertures in AV. There may be a connection, and/or the shutter may be stuck.

I'll check this when I disassemble the camera.

___

*AVO stands for „Maximum aperture value correction sensor“, see




+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Cleaning aperture magnet Mg1

In order to clean the aperture magnet, the mirror box must be removed.


1.jpg


I took a closer look at this on a mirror box that lacks the upper structure with the prism. But the structure around Mg1 is complete.


2.jpg


To distance the armature from its two contact surfaces, the mirror is released. This is done via the release magnet Mg2 by pulling back its armature.

The aperture magnet Mg1 is an electromagnet that doesn't attract its armature without current, as is the case here.

In contrast, the release magnet Mg2 is a permanent magnet that releases its armature when current passes through its coil.


3.jpg


The mirror has triggered and flipped up.


4.jpg


I turn the mirror box upside down.


5.jpg


Rear, right corner, top
  • Mg1: green arrow
  • Mg2: magenta arrow

6.jpg


Mg1 can be cleaned from the outside without dismantling.

The arrows point to its two contact surfaces under the armature.


7.jpg


To get between contact surfaces and armature I bend a cleaning swab.


8.jpg


For cleaning I use benzine.


9.jpg


10.jpg


The area can be easily reached and cleaned with the swab.
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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With a bit of luck, this might solve my problem with the small apertures.

We'll see 😌


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Andreas Thaler

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Removing the auto-diaphragm unit

This allows, among other things, the aperture magnet Mg1 to be reached in order to have full access for cleaning or replacement.

Larry Lyells:
2. To remove the auto-diaphragm unit, Fig. 11, remove the cemented indicator plate at the bottom front of the mirror box (the plate with the red dot next to the diaphragm-closing lever). Take out the 3 screws holding the auto-diaphragm unit (1 long screw, 2 countersunk screws). You can then lift off the auto-diaphragm unit with the release magnet and reach the SP flex and the aperture magnet.


1.jpg


00.jpg


3 screws, one under the movable fitting.


3.jpg


Removed


4.jpg


5.jpg


Mg1, 2 screws


6.jpg


The electromagnet and …


7.jpg


… its armature.
 
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Andreas Thaler

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Removing the AE unit

This allows the AE unit to be removed for cleaning and lubrication or replacement. The aperture magnet Mg1 is also accessible.

Larry Lyells;
To remove the AE unit, Fig. 12, first take out the AE-brush guard (screw at front, under wires). Then remove the 2 screws holding the AE unit.


This process worked for me:

1.jpg


Release the mirror by pulling out the armature of release magnet Mg2.

The mirror will flip upward.


2.jpg


Position of the two retaining screws.


3.jpg


Loosen the lower retaining screw.


4.jpg


5.jpg


Removing the AE-brush guard, 1 screw.


7.jpg


In this position the aperture control lever can be threaded out of the mirror box.


0.jpg


To do this, release the locking pawl (lower tip of the double arrow) by pulling and holding the corresponding lever (green arrow).

The aperture brush (upper tip) can now move to the appropriate position via the large gear; it is coupled to the aperture control lever.

Release the lever to fix the aperture brush.

Then loosen the upper retaining screw (magenta arrow, here already done).


9.jpg


Done
 
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Andreas Thaler

Andreas Thaler

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Now I should be able to search for the problem with the small apertures without any hindrance; spare parts are available if needed.

Stay tuned!


+++

All information provided without guarantee and use at your own risk.
 
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