By "twist" do you mean breech lock? The old lenses had a "lock" setting that would override the stop down mechanism of the body
Sometimes the actually said lock and sometimes not.
Set the camera to a slow shutter speed - say 1/2 sec. Mount the offending lens and try tripping the shutter at different apertures.
Does the lens close down to the set aperture size?
If all is functioning correctly here, then the problem might be with the linkage in the camera that engages the match needle (lolipop)
T
The lube in FDn lenses breaks down over time. What you end up with is oily blades, they're stuck to the
blade housing. it's possible to rotate the silver ring at the lens mount and that would allow you to stop it down
when it's not on the camera.
When I serviced these I used the lens mount from a parts camera to check this when we had a lens with the same complaint.
To me it looks like the lens on the left has 2 aperture levers and the one on the right has one.These are the backs of the lenses in question: on the left, a 50mm f/3.5 macro, which works with the body; on the right, a 28mm f/2.8, which does not work. To my untrained eye, these mechanisms look the exact same, other than that the 28's seem to have gaps under the silver things while the 50's mechanism has full, silver-colored bars.
To me it looks like the lens on the left has 2 aperture levers and the one on the right has one.
The lens on the right aperture lever appears to be shorter than the lever on the lens on the left.
Use a fine graduation ruler and measure the aperture lever height from the lens back, all lens of this type should be the same, if not check that the lever is not pushed in.
Also check that the body aperture lever is not bent or pushed in from improper lens attachment/attempt.
Just my observations from reading the thread several times.
See post #8.on the non-working lens (on the right, the 28), the lever does not move the entire length of the track (stopping about halfway), and does not lock in any position, just springs back to the original
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