Welcome to the forum Rich, if you want to sell something on A.P.U.G. you have to be a subscriber and advertise in the classified section.
I've only worked with A-series cameras, but the more I think about it lately, the more I want to get myself an F1 New. Problem is, as always, budget constraints.
They're always too expensive! Oh well, I guess it's expensive because it's still in demand. People still want them. Rich, yours looks in great condition, but too rich for my blood.
I will be happy to Les, I've been a photographer for more than 50 years and for more than 20 the manager of a professional photographic dealers before I retired, and have handled and used most of the best cameras that money can buy and the New Canon F1 is I.M.O. the best manual focus professional S.L.R. ever.
I have owned in the past two Nikon Fs an F2 and I currently own three T90 bodys ( two of these were gifts from friends who couldn't use them any more because the shutter magnets were stuck from lack of use, they become magnetized ) All the three versions of the F1 are dimensionally almost exactly the same and the controls and handling are almost identical so anyone used to the old one would have no problems with the new one the main difference between the old F1 and the New F1 are that the earlier models the F1 and F1n are purely manual mechanical cameras with matched needle metering and mechanical shutters the new F1 with the standard prism gives matched needle metering, with the AE prism aperture priority metering, and with the addition of the power winder FN or the motor drive FN shutter priority metering.the actual metering cell in the old F1 is Cadmium Sulphide and it runs off a banned Mercury 1.35V PX625 battery, the new F1 has a much more responsive Silicon Photo Diode that will read much lower lighting levels that runs off a either a PX 28 Silver Oxide battery or a PX 28 Lithium one that are easy to obtain these days.Ben, That's a nice brochure for the Canon New F-1 and makes a good argument for it as the best manual focus professional S.L.R. ever. You are therefore ranking it as better then the original F-1 and the T-90?
As I said, the link you pointed out is a good brochure but it doesn't explain how it is that you in your opinion the Canon New F-1 as the best and most robust professional manual focus SLR ever because it doesn't compare any others to it. This time you identify why it is best for you over the T90 (gets magnetized) or the original F-1 due to improved manufacturing, additional auto exposure features, new batteries and metering. You also referenced the Nikon F & F2 and apparently found those lacking.
If you haven't already read it, a seemingly more rounded review - with some comparisons, can be found at Modern Classic SLRs Series : Canon New F-1.[/QUOTE
I'm not seeking comparisons Les you are, I'm not a camera reviewer this is just my personal opinion based on my experience if you want what you consider a more objective view I suggest that you do your own research, all I can tell you is I have used sold and handled all these cameras for years, I didn't find the Nikon F or F2 "lacking" they were both first class cameras it depends if you want a purely manual pro SLR or the versatility of a more modern version with the option of the choice of metering patterns and exposure functions, it's just my personal opinion, although I like them I don't consider the T90 to be a fully pro camera because of limited system of viewfinder options, lack of weather sealing and top class materials and manufacturing quality that are required for a fully pro camera and difficulty these days getting of getting them serviced and because pro quality cameras are designed to withstand 100,000 shutter actuations before they need any attention and I doubt if the T90 is capable of this.
I don't have the time or inclination Les to write an academic thesis on the relative merits of all the pro SLR's of that era, all I can tell you is that after due consideration over many years I put my own money where my mouth is and bought three F1N- AE bodys and have never regretted it.Ben, You apparently made comparisons without even knowing it. After all, how else can you repeatedly declare that in your opinion, "Canon New F-1 as the best and most robust professional manual focus SLR ever". Anyway, given your extensive background and enthusiasm of the New F-1, I simply wanted to know the basis of your opinion. No doubt that some 30+ years later, there isn't much we don't already know regarding the technical specifications of these fine machines. Myself, I simply have an appreciation of them.
I have F's F2's F3's and Canon F-1's and like all of them however...
My worthless opinion and I don't have much experience with 35mm SLR's ( see signature) I feel the F3 is the best of the era and the most durable pro SLR.
I don't have the time or inclination Les to write an academic thesis on the relative merits of all the pro SLR's of that era, all I can tell you is that after due consideration over many years I put my own money where my mouth is and bought three F1N- AE bodys and have never regretted it.
I have F's F2's F3's and Canon F-1's and like all of them however...
My worthless opinion and I don't have much experience with 35mm SLR's ( see signature) I feel the F3 is the best of the era and the most durable pro SLR.
I don't want to have a museum, I don't collect cameras I just use them, and don't treat them as devotional objects.No doubt that much can be said (much has been said!) about the Nikon F3!
Too bad given your seeming enthusiasm about the New F-1 but I can understand that not everyone is so inclined. Putting your money where you mouth is is a good testament for it.
Personally, I thoroughly enjoy the history and can appreciate the fine qualities of these fine AE capable light boxes . . .
I don't want to have a museum, I don't collect cameras I just use them, and don't treat them as devotional objects.
I'm not seeking comparisons Les you are, I'm not a camera reviewer this is just my personal opinion based on my experience if you want what you consider a more objective view I suggest that you do your own research, all I can tell you is I have used sold and handled all these cameras for years,
I don't want to have a museum, I don't collect cameras I just use them, and don't treat them as devotional objects.
I have pristine examples of the bodies pictured above except for the LX but will have one at some point. Yes I do collect fine examples but also maintain a stable of user cameras of the same bodies just for the purpose of forming my opinion.
I read about the Olympus OM4 and Pentax LX and found in their technical specifications that they can go 240 and 125 seconds respectively. After I acquired both, I found out that the OM4's 4 minute limit is hard coded while the LX will go on for as long as it takes to properly expose the scene - while monitoring it in real time and changing accordingly, or the batteries are depleted. Certainly a good argument for not strictly relying on the spec sheets!
Do these cameras also have a facility for reciprocity? I imagine that could be quite bad without one.
There are no cameras that are programmed to account for reciprocity as far as I know. Heck, I doubt that even the Fuji, Kodak - and other, folks would know the reciprocity for their films given these extreme durations and various lighting conditions.
Here is one such test I conducted using the LX with Kodak Gold 100. The results without any compensation looks "normal". I've conducted similar tests with other films and the results all look "normal".
While I'm sure that's fine for some color negative films for shorter duration exposures, I'm also sure that longer exposures with slide film will cause all kinds of problem. Thus, the use of autoexposure without some means of compensating for the reciprocity effect, which varies by film, seems to obviate the need for such a mode.
Now, if you were to look at the datasheets for some slide film - like Fuji Velvia 50 for example, it states to add +1 stop at up to 32 seconds which is well within the range of the control.
Are you sure about that? Velvia 50 used to start suffering from the reciprocity effect after 1 to 4 seconds, plus it required magenta filtration. This is one of the reasons I use Provia 100F - it has much better reciprocity characteristics. Has Velvia 50's forumulation changed in the last few years? Here's a shot with Velvia 50 that exemplifies its weak reciprocity characteristics.
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