Canon 50E + BP-50 - some uncertainty with AA batteries

Hi everyone,

I spent the day testing this camera with and without the battery grip I got.

I put some newly purchased Energizer AA batteries in the battery grip, and I positioned the switch on the battery grip so the red mark isn't visible.

1) I noticed that when I take photos with the camera's internal flash, the camera turns off when I use the battery grip with its AA batteries. Is this normal?

2) I also noticed that with the battery grip, as soon as I turn the switch to P, the camera indicates low battery with the battery symbol flashing on the display. Then I go back to L and back to P, and then it turns back on, that don't happen every times but sometimes it happens. with 2cr5 is never happende.

3) Overall, it seems a little less reliable when using AA batteries, yet the battery grip is in excellent condition with no damage and no scratch at all. The battery terminals don't appear to be oxidized. What can I do to try to remove any possible buildup that might be there but isn't visible without causing any damage?

4) Another thing that's very different from the Canon 3000n, 300v, and 300 I have. When you load the film with the door open, you have to do it with the camera off. Once the door is closed, you can turn the camera on. I noticed, however, that it doesn't rewind the entire roll like on the more basic models, where the first photo you take is imprinted on frame 36 of the film. On this one, the first frame is imprinted on the first frame of the film, right?

5) I'd read a bit about the door. Is there a way to prevent it? That is, when you close it, which I think is the tricky part, it's probably best to push down on the side release button to open it, close the back, and release the button so you don't hear the click, which could stress the plastic part. That's what I'll do. (I hope I explained myself well.)

Rosssiiii said:

1) I noticed that when I take photos with the camera's internal flash, the camera turns off when I use the battery grip with its AA batteries. Is this normal?

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No, that's not supposed to happen and likely signals power supply problems.

Rosssiiii said:

When you load the film with the door open, you have to do it with the camera off. Once the door is closed, you can turn the camera on.

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The 50E can be loaded while it's on. What happens if you have the camera on, open the back, put in film and close it?

Rosssiiii said:

I noticed, however, that it doesn't rewind the entire roll like on the more basic models, where the first photo you take is imprinted on frame 36 of the film. On this one, the first frame is imprinted on the first frame of the film, right?

Click to expand...

Yes, that's correct. The other models you mention are one of the more rare types that first wind all of the film onto the take-up spool and then transport the film back into the cassette as you take photos.

Rosssiiii said:

Is there a way to prevent it?

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Not really. It's plastic, it gets old. If you're careful, it'll take a little longer before the latch fails, but it will fail sooner or later. You can probably still purchase replacement latches on eBay etc. I have one or two spares here and have replaced several on my cameras. The latches will generally fail in (very) cold weather as this makes the plastic more brittle, so once it's old already, then a cold day is more likely to be the day it breaks.

Your power problems sound related to poorly suited batteries. What kind of Energizer batteries are these? Keep in mind that not all alkaline batteries are created equal. In general, NiMH rechargeable batteries work very well in film-SLR's. They tend to last a very long time on a charge and can supply the high peak currents needed for e.g. a cycling flash.

koraks said:

No, that's not supposed to happen and likely signals power supply problems.


The 50E can be loaded while it's on. What happens if you have the camera on, open the back, put in film and close it?


Yes, that's correct. The other models you mention are one of the more rare types that first wind all of the film onto the take-up spool and then transport the film back into the cassette as you take photos.


Not really. It's plastic, it gets old. If you're careful, it'll take a little longer before the latch fails, but it will fail sooner or later. You can probably still purchase replacement latches on eBay etc. I have one or two spares here and have replaced several on my cameras. The latches will generally fail in (very) cold weather as this makes the plastic more brittle, so once it's old already, then a cold day is more likely to be the day it breaks.

Your power problems sound related to poorly suited batteries. What kind of Energizer batteries are these? Keep in mind that not all alkaline batteries are created equal. In general, NiMH rechargeable batteries work very well in film-SLR's. They tend to last a very long time on a charge and can supply the high peak currents needed for e.g. a cycling flash.

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Now i have used some Ikea rechargble battery and worked even with flash !

but worked for 3 times in a raw, after that waiting less then a minute at the next flash the camera went off again.

at least i want to see if is more reliable with just power on and off and single shutter without flash, because as i said before also that was happened with alcaline "Then I go back to L and back to P, and then it turns back on, that don't happen every times but sometimes it happens. with 2cr5 is never happende."

What kind of Energizer batteries are these?

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Energizer Max

OK, your experience with the IKEA batteries show that the batteries are most likely the problem.

If I were you, I'd forget about the regular disposable batteries and instead get yourself a set of rechargeable NiMH (not lithium) AA batteries and a charger. You'll save yourself a lot of frustration and a pile of discarded batteries. The planet will probably thank you, too.

koraks said:

OK, your experience with the IKEA batteries show that the batteries are most likely the problem.

If I were you, I'd forget about the regular disposable batteries and instead get yourself a set of rechargeable NiMH (not lithium) AA batteries and a charger. You'll save yourself a lot of frustration and a pile of discarded batteries. The planet will probably thank you, too.

Click to expand...

nope

first i have tried with ikea rechargeable NiMH battery and went off just with shutter button press, no flash.

after i have tried Alkaline and worked fine to take picture but went off with flash, just one time when i have moved the camera from L to P went off immediatly alredy there.

now i have did a new clean of the contacts and the rechargeable IKEA ones made in Japan, probably disguised Panasonics, worked correctly even with the flash.



generally contacts are clear but i only notice that one that is more dirt, but if you run your finger over it you'll feel that there's no encrustation.

I have used isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab and a toothpick but it doesn't get any brighter than this, in the picture looks worst

That is not clean.
You generally need to use something more abrasive to clean contacts. Very fine sandpaper works, but there are other ways as well.
Ensure the contact problems are solved, then the NiMH's should work.

How old are your IKEA NiMH batteries? Fully charged?

PS: if you're creative, you could use rechargeable CR123A batteries in a custom holder so that it fits in the 2CR5 socket in your camera. That way you don't have to use the bulky BP holder under your camera and you still get to enjoy good economy.

koraks said:

View attachment 417020
That is not clean.
You generally need to use something more abrasive to clean contacts. Very fine sandpaper works, but there are other ways as well.
Ensure the contact problems are solved, then the NiMH's should work.

How old are your IKEA NiMH batteries? Fully charged?

PS: if you're creative, you could use rechargeable CR123A batteries in a custom holder so that it fits in the 2CR5 socket in your camera. That way you don't have to use the bulky BP holder under your camera and you still get to enjoy good economy.

Click to expand...

now i have make it more clean, but i would like to see what is inside the bp-50.

a 2CR5 battery at 6,05v how much discharged is it ? with canon 1000n F is working.

because this evening that battery that in the past days worked without any issue is going to let go off the camera 50e when i take pictures even without a flash.

now i took a new Panasonic 2cr5 on amazon that i will receive tomorrow to test the camera and see how it works, but other day i took many many pictures without any issue...i only saw issues with battery grip.

Try fresh batteries.

Rosssiiii said:

i would like to see what is inside the bp-50.

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Open it up!

koraks said:

Try fresh batteries.


Open it up!

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Anyway, fingers crossed, it seems like everything's resolved now. I disassembled the battery grip and thoroughly cleaned the contacts between the batteries, removing any signs of oxidation with sandpaper.

I also gently sanded the contacts in the camera's battery compartment, which weren't exactly shiny, and when I used the grip, it made things worse.

I unscrewed everything from the grip and only solved the problem after removing the grip's on/off switch. I didn't do anything major there, but I had to disassemble it twice. Let's hope it's completely resolved, but yesterday, burst and flash shots worked flawlessly with the IKEA rechargeable batteries (are made in japan and someone say are panasonic).

Very nice. I'll include some of your photos here in the thread so they remain available for future reference. If you're not comfortable with this, let me know and I'll remove them.





I can see how contact problems could arise from a loose fit of the BP holder inside the camera. It's been a long time since I've used one (I dislike the bulk and weight they add), but I recall the shaft that slides into the battery compartment on the camera and how this would only contact well if the BP holder is screwed into the camera securely.