Can you print 16x20 using Beseler Printmaker 67 from 35mm neg?

[youngrichard]

Do not let yourself be limited by what is conventional 'normal' wisdom.

Of course a 16x20" print can be had from 35mm negs. You can make 30x40" prints too!

Will they look good? You be the judge of that, not everybody else. It is true, though, that some enlarger lenses will disappoint beyond 16x20", but do not let that stop you.



Like I said, you don't look at a 16 x20 print with a magnifying glass. Jump in , the water's lovely. Have a go.
Richard

 

[darkosaric]

HOLY sharp! That is great detail, and this came from a 35mm camera? What film, and lens type(manual, auto), may I ask? Thank you!

Thanks .
Nikon F801s + nikkor 50mm/f1.8 AF-D, Kodak TP in Technidol. It was long time ago, so I don't remember shutter speed and f stop, but at that time I used aperture priority all the time with matrix metering, no tripod.

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

Thanks .
Nikon F801s + nikkor 50mm/f1.8 AF-D, Kodak TP in Technidol. It was long time ago, so I don't remember shutter speed and f stop, but at that time I used aperture priority all the time with matrix metering, no tripod.

Thanks for the feedback! I only needed to know in order to figure out if manual focus lens as my Nikkor 28mm 2.8 AIS is a good idea on my Nikon F100! I seem to not be stable enough to get sharp enough photo's, especially the human kind! I am contemplating selling it and getting the 500mm in either 50mm 1.8D or 50mm 1.4D!

 

[darkosaric]

Thanks for the feedback! I only needed to know in order to figure out if manual focus lens as my Nikkor 28mm 2.8 AIS is a good idea on my Nikon F100! I seem to not be stable enough to get sharp enough photo's, especially the human kind! I am contemplating selling it and getting the 500mm in either 50mm 1.8D or 50mm 1.4D!

Never used 28mm AIS, so can not comment on that. 50mm/1.8D is cheap - best value for the money --> buy it . When using 50mm/f1.8 at lets say f4-f8 and shutter speed 1/250 or higher you must get excellent results, or you are doing some errors in the process.

 

[MattKing]

Thanks for the feedback! I only needed to know in order to figure out if manual focus lens as my Nikkor 28mm 2.8 AIS is a good idea on my Nikon F100! I seem to not be stable enough to get sharp enough photo's, especially the human kind! I am contemplating selling it and getting the 500mm in either 50mm 1.8D or 50mm 1.4D!

You need to read up on good technique for hand-holding when photographing.

That will make more of a difference than any $ spent on lenses.

 

[tkamiya]

Just out of pure curiosity, I took one of my negatives (Tmax 100) and projected an image to a size over 5 feet by 3 feet onto a wall.

I used a Vivitar VI enlarger with a Nikkor 50mm f/2.8. Negative carrier is NOT a glass type. Lens was wide open.

To my surprise, the image was pretty good. I'd print it to this size if needed.... Of course it's not pin sharp and it won't stand close examination. But from say 3 feet away, it's quite an acceptable image. From 10 feet away, there's nothing wrong with it.

If I were to actually print this, I would probably close down the aperture a bit for more sharpness.

THAT was fun.... I was actually quite surprised that this is actually possible.

One of the things that came to mind as a potential problem is that at this magnification, exposing light will be quite dim and exposure time quite long. All enlargers leak light quite a bit which will be reflected by walls and some of that reaches paper. That needs to be prevented. Otherwise, it will fog the resulting image. Now, I HAVE TO TRY THIS.

 

[M Carter]

Never used 28mm AIS, so can not comment on that. 50mm/1.8D is cheap - best value for the money --> buy it . When using 50mm/f1.8 at lets say f4-f8 and shutter speed 1/250 or higher you must get excellent results, or you are doing some errors in the process.

The 28 2.8 AIS is on my shopping list - I have never owned one but numerous tests about the internets show it to be a pretty legendary piece of glass, even when head to head with the Zeiss. And a clean one can be found for under $300.

I recently went for it and got a used 28-70 2.8, one of the pricier purchases I've made in recent years (very sweet zoom though, and I shoot a lot of video with Nikon DSLRs and for those projects, it's on there 90% of the time it seems) so a 28 prime right now seems a bit... luxurious? Since most of my film work is MF anyway...

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

You need to read up on good technique for hand-holding when photographing.

That will make more of a difference than any $ spent on lenses.

Well, I figured the AF would make sense for my ADHD coffee swilling hands, plus, I think I am really lazing, and I don't want to haul my dern Vanguard tripod, especially at random folks homes, I think it may make them uncomfortable! I do love my Nikkor 28mm 2.8 AIS and its ability to focus so dang near your subject! I have used it with my yet never forgotten, D600, D700, and especially D800! That of course is a whole world of difference, since the DSLR has its own abilities, and the fact that it allows multi fire mode to get that one shot, I guess I figured with film, I wouldn't need to worry about these factors as film is supposed to allow a better advantage versus DSLR? Is this where dynamic's come to play? I think I am really missing something with their comparison, especially since it is as if I am comparing grass to turf! Do I have an advantage to shot sharp photo's over a DSLR, or is it technique that is the necessity? I didn't shake on my photo's, I placed it on my door, focus to the furthest setting and snap, crackle, and pop!

 

[aRolleiBrujo]

Never used 28mm AIS, so can not comment on that. 50mm/1.8D is cheap - best value for the money --> buy it . When using 50mm/f1.8 at lets say f4-f8 and shutter speed 1/250 or higher you must get excellent results, or you are doing some errors in the process.

Darko, Thanks for the response, and suggestions! I was thinking that by going auto focus, I could be lazier, and obtain a "fixed", (pun intended) sharp image, rather than spend minutes adjusting my beloved mf! Arrgh, I feel so conflicted, shooting film, contemplating auto focus! I feel like I'm betraying analog this way!

 

[MartinP]

It is often said that the sharpest lens in ones bag is a tripod . . .

If you need to have auto-focus with a Nikon, look for an F100. That will help with Nikkors that aren't "DX" half-frame lenses of course.

 

[darkosaric]

It is often said that the sharpest lens in ones bag is a tripod . . .

If you need to have auto-focus with a Nikon, look for an F100. That will help with Nikkors that aren't "DX" half-frame lenses of course.

Martin, he has an F100 already , just asking about AF or manual lens for it.

For me tripod is ok when shooting slower than 1/125 with 50mm lens, but for 1/125 or faster I don't see any difference. Maybe I have more steady hand than other folks.

 

[removed account4]

Do not let yourself be limited by what is conventional 'normal' wisdom.

thanks for saying this thomas !

people are too caught up in conventional "normal"wisdom ...
they don't learn things by doing them themselves ..
the rely on what they heard/read by people whose taste
might be vastly different than their own, or they are just a parrot
and have no experience in anything, sit around the internet have a "high post count" and repost
what other people said ... without ever having done any of the things they profess to be captain of ...

the heck with conventional 'normal' wisdom ! not only with enlarging 35mm to 16x20
but with lots of other things too ... that the big-brains suggest is an impossibility or not a good idea...
often times it is a GREAT IDEA, QUITE DO-ABLE and TURNS OUT JUST GREAT...

i better say YMMV LOL

 

[M Carter]

I still have an old N90s with the grip - really was one of the great semi-pro Nikons and the AF is great - not all the utility of a DSLR (moving focus point, etc) but it works quite well.

 

[darkosaric]

I still have an old N90s with the grip - really was one of the great semi-pro Nikons and the AF is great - not all the utility of a DSLR (moving focus point, etc) but it works quite well.

My first "serious" camera was nikon F801s - great camera, and N90 is even better. I got some time ago F65 for 5€, also great camera. Original F and F3 that I have feels better in my hand, but those cheap autofocus nikons are great cameras that can do the job equally good.

 

[M Carter]

My first "serious" camera was nikon F801s - great camera, and N90 is even better. I got some time ago F65 for 5€, also great camera. Original F and F3 that I have feels better in my hand, but those cheap autofocus nikons are great cameras that can do the job equally good.

Yep, in the US the F801 is the 8008. Then the 8008s added slightly faster AF and better metering and FPS (as I recall, the "S" meant "speed" to the reviewers).

The 8008 also has built-in multiple exposure, something you needed a pricey special back for on the N90/N90s. But there was never a big grip made for the 8008 (a news shooter in florida manufactured one for a while). You can find an N90s with a grip for a hundred bucks these days, it's a fantastic combo. But the ones with the rubberized back door? The rubber degrades and becomes sticky. Nikon replaced them for free for some time, stock is gone now. It takes a couple hours with solvent to clean the coating off.

I still have 2 or 3 8008s bodies... one has a Forscher Polaroid back on it. Those backs were so expensive ($700 or so in the 90's), the 8008 remained my 35mm Polaroid proofing camera on commercial shoots through the film era.

I did a lot of product shooting using multiple exposure with the 8008 on 320T pushed 2 or 3 stops, and then duped onto Velvia or EPP sheet film. A different sort of direction compared to what most folks think of multi exposure, but gave me some incredible, organic shadows and glows: