Can some one explain fixers to me?

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mark

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My clayton's is about out and I am in the market for a fixer. I used to just buy the stuff off the shelf but thought I would look for something to mix myself. Might be cheaper, might not we'll see. I did a search and could not really find the answer I was looking for

What is the difference between alkalai and acid fix aside from the PH and one is alkalai and the other acid? I am looking for performance differences.

I am looking for a dual purpose fix that can be used for paper and film. I looked at the recipe section but none of them said if you mixed a working solution or if it was a stock solution that you diluted.
 

modafoto

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mark said:
My clayton's is about out and I am in the market for a fixer. I used to just buy the stuff off the shelf but thought I would look for something to mix myself. Might be cheaper, might not we'll see. I did a search and could not really find the answer I was looking for

What is the difference between alkalai and acid fix aside from the PH and one is alkalai and the other acid? I am looking for performance differences.

I am looking for a dual purpose fix that can be used for paper and film. I looked at the recipe section but none of them said if you mixed a working solution or if it was a stock solution that you diluted.

I asked a similar question a while ago. I am in need of a universal fixer, too.

My thread:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
 
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mark

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Thanks Morten.

I am still wondering about dilution. though.
 

Nick Zentena

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Dilution is going to depend on the formula. I use TF-2 stock for both film and paper. So my stock is my working solution. No dilution.
 

Ole

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Just adding a note that - the dilution is up to you.

Depending on what I'm doing, and for how long I plan to do it, and how long it's going to be before I get back in the darkroom again, I hase OF-1 at anything from full strength to 1+3. Diluted lasts longer, but works slower. Full strength works faster, but with lower capacity. But if I'm printing today and not for two-three weeks, I'll use it full strength. If I have a lot of prints to do, I'll use a full strength first fix and a 1+3 second fix.
 

Silverpixels5

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I use TF-4 at the 1:3 dilution for both film and paper. Although, I don't use the same solution for both.
 

BarrieB

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Agfa ' Universal ' is a great fixer; Use it with stronger dilutions for films than papers.It come as a liquid, I have had good economy from this over many years. They also market 'Agefix' but it is a little dearer here in Australia.
 

NikoSperi

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Is there a subtlty to this question that eludes me, or is something like "Use Ilford Rapid Fixer" a viable answer? I use it; 1:4 for film, 1:9 for paper... it lasts forever.
 
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mark

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No subtlety. I was just wondering about mixing my own, and the differences between and acid and an alkaine fix. Nothing wrong with Ilford rapid fix. I've been using Clayton's no stink and something called NU-fix.

everyone,
What would you use with a pyro developer? Acid or Alkali
 

David A. Goldfarb

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With pyro, an alkaline fixer is advantageous. Acid fixers can reduce the level of stain.

I use TF-4 for both paper and film usually, but separate batches. Since I can buy TF-4 locally, there is no advantage to mixing my own (I've priced it out). If you have to have TF-4 shipped, however, it may be advantageous to mix your own or at least to use a fixer available as a dry powder. Fine Art Photo Supply sells an alkaline fixer available as a powder.

When I was using acid fixer, I liked Zonal Pro Rapid Fixer. It was fast and convenient. I still have some on hand, so I use it occasionally, when I don't need an alkaline fixer (like for film developed in Acufine or large batches of RC prints).
 

Will S

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There is a lot of extensive testing and data on fixers and washing in David Vestal's darkroom book. It is from the 1980s, but might still be of interest if you are interested in using an acid fix and a wash aid. He also tests "rapid-fix" (Edwal I think)

Best,

Will
 

happusa

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I use TF-4 Archival rapid fixer for both film and paper. 1+3 mix. Requires no stop bath. 30 sec on RC and 60 sec on FB. 3 - 4 min for film.

Check out photoformulary.com
 
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Fixing paper at film strength

I don't have the literature readily available, but Ilford has supported fixing paper in film strength rapid fixer as an archival method. It works just fine, and means that since it's in the fixer for a much shorter time, paper will absorb less fixer which in turn makes it easier to wash.

I use the alkaline fixer sold at www.fineartphotosupply.com (no affiliation) for both film and paper, and it works fine for me. It's really cheap too.

- Thom

mark said:
Thanks Morten.

I am still wondering about dilution. though.
 
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