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Can one use Ilford PQ Universal with film?

Most excellent!
 
When Ilfor published times for PQ Universal it was for use 1+19and HP3 was 9 mins at 20ºC, so some where around 15 mins at 1+29. When I tested FP4 35mm in PQ Universal I found a speed loss so I'd expect the same with HP5 maybe 200 EI.

The disadvantage of PQ Universal is it now uses Dimezone rather than Phenidone, it doesn't keep as well so you need good fresh developer because at these dilutions any oxidation will effect the results.

Ian
 
So what is your advice? What time and measure should I use?

When Ilfor published times for PQ Universal it was for use 1+19and HP3 was 9 mins at 20ºC, so some where around 15 mins at 1+29. When I tested FP4 35mm in PQ Universal I found a speed loss so I'd expect the same with HP5 maybe 200 EI.

I'd start at 9 mins at 200 EI at 1+19, or 15 mins at 1+29.

Ian
 
The movie I use is hp5 plus 400. 200 What does the El mean? Can you write the meaning of El? I'm sorry, but as I said, I'm very novice.
 
It contains HYDROQUINONE. There is no description about Dimezone.
 

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The movie I use is hp5 plus 400. 200 What does the El mean? Can you write the meaning of El? I'm sorry, but as I said, I'm very novice.
EI stands for exposure index. There is a film speed which in the case of HP5+ is 400. This is determined by a specific set of rules and is a standard for all film However when you decide to change the speed at which you set your film then to distinguish it from standard film speed it is called Exposure Index or E.I. for short. So HP5+ has a film speed of 400 but your E.I. for it might be 200 as this is the exposure index that is right for your use of that film.

I hope this helps

pentaxuser
 
I made the development tonight. It was very difficult previously to wrap the film in a spiral. It was really annoying. I hope I can share the results tomorrow. Thank you for your encouraging information.
 
Camera: Olympus OM10
Film: Ilford HP5 plus 400
Lens: Miranda 70-210mm
Developer: Ilford PQ Universal
Development time: 4.5 minutes Stopper: Ilfostop 15 seconds
Fixer: Rapidfixer 5 minutes
 
I had a lot of difficulties while transferring the film to the spiral. The result appears in the photo. I'm so clumsy about exposure. I think the developer is very fast and effective. A few more photos to share. As a result, the developer was good but I was bad.
 
How humid is your environment, and are you trying to use a changing bag when loading the reels?
I ask because moisture is the enemy of plastic reels.
That being said, I always suggest lots of practice with a sacrificed roll of film - first with your eyes open and watching, next with your eyes closed and finally in the dark with your eyes open.
Pay particular attention to both the feel and the sound of the film going in correctly. The sound is distinctive. It is hard to hear it from inside a changing bag, which is one of the reasons I recomment loading in a darkened room or closet instead, even if that means waiting until night.
 
I wrap the film on the reel when it is in the bathroom and at night. But I think I have to get the reel out of the bathroom.
 
I wrap the film on the reel when it is in the bathroom and at night. But I think I have to get the reel out of the bathroom.
Load the film on to the reel in the dark bathroom. Then put the reel into the light-tight developing tank while still in the bathroom. Put the lid on to the tank. Now you can turn on the lights.
A bathroom can be an excellent place to load the reels if there is an exhaust fan that helps control humidity.
 
Banyoda havalandırma penceresi vardır. Bunu her zaman söylediğin gibi yapıyorum. Makarayı bir dahaki sefere saç kurutma makinesi ile kurutacağım )
 
With plastic reels try rubbing the point of a soft pencil around the reel on both sides. This deposits graphite on the places where the film has to slide and makes the plastic more slippery so the film slides over the plastic more easily. Use a pencil that is 4-8 B which is soft

pentaxuser