Can I use E6 BLIX for C41 ?

[koraks]

I THINK I must use the 5ml/135mm film Replenish strength but diluting the 2 litre solution 700mls Replenisher + 300mls Water to make the 'Working Strength ' Solution.

In practice, it's entirely non-critical how you use this stuff. You can use it full strength, diluted 1+1 with water, 2+2 or even 1+4. Same with replenishment; use one shot, or replenish at whatever rate you fancy. The only thing you need to ensure is that the combination of dilution, replenishment and bleach time results in complete bleaching. Since incompletely bleached film can easily be re-bleached to correct the issue, even an occasional mishap isn't catastrophic.

Long story short, don't overthink it. I use rapid access bleach as well (Fuji) and just go by a 'a dash of this and a splash of that' approach with 100% success rate. I do admit that I adhere to a 3m15s processing time regime - so the same time for development, bleach and fix. Since both the bleach and fix I use are rapid access, the 3m15s time already has a massive in-built margin for error. But it's easy, because I don't have to re-set my timer after each step or try and remember how long the various steps were. Same time, same temperature for all steps. Very convenient.

 

[pentaxpete]

koraks -- that is VERY HELPFUL !! I have almost finished a 120 C41 film ready to process ! I use 'CPAC C41 FIX' as i got a HUGE pack for 100 Litres at 'Sale Price ' years ago and decant 5 litres into a 5 Litre container then Dilute that to make Replenisher then Dilute Rep to make 'Working Strength'

 

[AgX]

In general I do NOT advise to swap single-baths in processing.

At least in the past we had differences between manufacturers or even their kits in the way the baths within a process were made up.

As example I may take an interlaced conditioner bath in E-6 or the final bath were components had been moved between baths.
These issues may have been overcome by now. But to swap baths one must be sure that the respective bath is complete, acts the same as the original bath, or is fit for that very process.

 

[pentaxpete]

My 'TEST FILM' after diluting the new 'Mydoneg Bleach' looks fine - hanging to dry now. I decided to give 2 mins in the Bleach and 3 mins in the Fix as I read it acts faster than I thought as I was usually giving 5 mins in fresh Fix then increasing time a bit as films went through, the I would 'Test' the Fix with a few drops of 4% Potassium Iodide solution -- if the Fix was exhausted I got a White Precipitate.

 

[koraks]

For what it's worth, I always use C41 fixer one shot, but at higher dilution (up to 1+9). This prevents the white specks/flakes I sometimes got previously when reusing + replenishing fixer. Given the low cost of fixer, especially when diluted a lot, it's totally worth it to only use it once, IMO.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've been using my Flexicolor fixer just like I do B&W rapid fixer: reuse to capacity, then discard. I've understood this to have a capacity of 32 rolls per liter (and clearing time was still under a minute after 20+ when I accidentally poured color developer into the fixer bottle). Never seen an issue with specks or flakes...

 

[pentaxpete]

It is extremely DIFFICULT to contact ;Champion Photochemistry' Company to get advise. There are many 'Regions' such as ASIA, AMERICA. EUROPE -- so I tried to contact 'Europe' as I am in England but the ;Link' did not work so I contacted a 'Service Person ' in Champion CANADA and had NO reply !----- In my Fresh C41 mix i used my FUJI Hunt 'ENVIRONEG; Dev Rep LR with 'Air Control' as I was given a 2x10 litres Kit by Bill of BOOTS Brentwood Mini-Lab when it was forced to close. It has parts 'A,Band C where A is the Alkali + little Sulphite. B is the Hydroxylamine Hydrochloride and C is the CD4 Dev Agent + some Metabisulphite anti-oxygen . I can mix small amounts for Paterson tanks. There is the 'Starter' he gave ma as well.at 30mls/ Litre in Replenisher solution . I always got good results. The film I did was a 10/2006 Dated KONICA VX400 Super rated 200ASA. I gave a 'Pre-Soak and GREEN anti-halation dye came out. I gave 3 mins 30 secs development to allow for the slight developer dilution by the Pre-Soak . I had a 'Magenta' area on left side of some negs BUT I got that using my 'Old Bleach ' as well -- so maybe it's the 'Pre-Soak' ?? GUN is the latest neg in Fresh mix with the new MYDONEG bleach. The CHURCH is from previous old mix.
Tilbury Fort Colour 01 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr
Tenterden Village 05 by Peter Elgar, on Flickr

 

[MattKing]

Try some fresh film .
Uneven colour says bad film or poor agitation or insufficient chemical volume.

 

[pentaxpete]

Matt --- in 'wrapping up' this long post -- today I had e-mail from the 'Analogue Technical Manager' of TETENAL UK with a PDF ' Small Mixing Chart for Mydoneg Range of Film Processing Products' Just what I needed -- it confirmed what members HERE were saying that their 'C41 BLEACH is a 'Rapid Access Type' -- 50 seconds only as is the Mydoneg Universal FIXER /Replenisher at 50-70 seconds but the Temperature they put is 35oC not 38oC -- strange ! I have asked 'Nigel' if I should 'Prewash' to get rid of the Green Anti-Halation dye and if to use a buffered Acetic Acid Stop bath or not -- see what he says ! No Reply at ALL from Champion Photochemistry Company by my direct e-mail query

 

[MattKing]

Champion is really only set up to supply and support commercial customers.
They were one of the largest unpaid creditors in the Eastman Kodak bankruptcy, and those losses decimated them.