But I find Pyrocat not so very well suited for push processing. It is convenient, though.
Yes I used that, a long time ago, the only thing I remember is that I found it very nice to work with and I couldn't infer any significant differences with HC110, because there are mostly more variables playing a role than one and I did not do a real test. Because I preferred TriX at that time, I stuck to HC110 at last, but for FP4+ I liked the HC very much, quite punchyI'm going to throw something out there... anybody ever tried Ilford HC?
I don't know if it's more liquid then HC-110 nor do I know if it's comparable in any way, but from looking at the MSDS, it looks like it relies only on Hydroquinone, just like the Kodak stuff.
I'm going to throw something out there... anybody ever tried Ilford HC?
I don't know if it's more liquid then HC-110 nor do I know if it's comparable in any way, but from looking at the MSDS, it looks like it relies only on Hydroquinone, just like the Kodak stuff.
The MSDS should never be relied upon to determin what a developer is made from; they often omit mentioning things like Phenidone that are regarded as low-toxicity chemicals.
But still, it's pretty much the only thing we have to chemically compare two commercial developers who have a formula that is a closely guarded secret.
No pictorial developer uses only Hydroquinone; any that did would produce extremely high contrast images. HC-110 and Ilfotec-HC both used Phenidone as the primary developing agent, with Hydroquinone as the secondary agent. The MSDS should never be relied upon to determin what a developer is made from; they often omit mentioning things like Phenidone that are regarded as low-toxicity chemicals.
Clayton F76 Plus. It's also sold under the brand name Arista(Liquid Film Developer) in smaller 12oz bottles from Freestyle. I think the recommended dilutions is a bit off from my experience. I prefer the 1to14 dilution for box speed with dev times for the 1to9, particularly HP5. But I usually develop only a smaller segment of a roll at a time.
And HC-110, the viscous much celebrated version that was current up till a few years ago, also contained pyrocatechol. I don't know about any current version though.
Did the last of the thick versions have it? In the Film Developing Cookbook, Anchell and Troop say that early versions of HC-110 had Pyrocatechol but that it was removed early on.
You're right, no water at all. If I remember, the water was replaced by propylene glycol as it contains no oxygen to speak of. This would help explain the longevity of the stuff.the classic viscous one with lots of SO2 and apparently no water at all
I've been using the 1 + 9 dilution for this developer for some time and the results have been adequate. That said, for Ilford FP4, I might prefer the 1 + 14 dilution as it may provide slightly lower contrast--if I understand the manufacturer's literature. I assume that changing the dilution will also change the development time? If this is the case, should I adjust times by a factor of 1.5, for example, or have you found that the relationship is not that obvious? Thanks for any suggestions you might provide here.
Yes, in general, the development time will have to increase with lower dilutions. But in this case, my negs were overcooked by about two stops using the prescribed diultion and time; I was using the rebranded Arista 12oz. version. Come to think of it, I wonder if there was a manufacturing error and the bottled concentration is too high?
Unfortunately, there is not many listings for the 1:14 dil. So, based on the development times for both 1:9(6.5min) and 1:14(9.5min) with Delta 100 your ratio came out pretty much right. I use this approach likewise as a starting point in such cases.
Thank you for your helpful and timely response! When you say "overcooked" do you mean overexposed by nearly two stops or exposed per box speed and the resulting negatives appeared over-developed?
A few years ago, I wrote to Claytons as I had a question about strategies for enhancing storage capacity. Within a day or so, a chemist from Claytons did respond with some helpful suggestions about eliminating excess air in partially filled bottles and, to my question at that time, storing opened bottles in a refrigerator (not alongside food products)! Perhaps I could construct a concise question about altering dilutions and subsequent times. If I do this, I'll share any response I might receive.
Thanks, again.
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