Can anyone please help me to clean the "foggy" viewfinder of the Fuji GW690III?

[manfrominternet]

Hello fellow analog friends,

I recently purchased a Fuji GW690III from Japan that looks practically brand new a few days ago. However, I quickly realized that the rangefinder/viewfinder was quite "foggy." I can still use the camera, but this "fogginess" is really, really bothering me. I told the seller about this and he kindly refunded me $220 because of it.

Can anyone help me with how I can fix this? I looked at the Fuji GW690III Service Manual (https://galerie-photo.com/manuels/fuji-gw-gsw-690iii-service-manual-en.pdf) and it includes a description on how to remove the top cover assembly on page 12, as well as a diorama on page 13 that shows how to take off the top part of the Fuji camera so that I can actually get to the rangefinder/viewfinder part to work my cleaning magic. It says, rather vaguely, "Apply a piece of rubber sheet to the shutter release assembly and turn it to remove, and pull out the advance film lever, stopper, [and] shutter release shaft."

The problem is that it is seems impossible for me to turn the shutter release assembly. I can move it just a little, but that doesn't do anything. I already have blisters on my thumb from doing this for so long.

Can anyone explain please explain how to do this properly, step by step? I'm feeling pretty desperate. Any help would be very much appreciated. I would be understandably really sad and upset if I'd have to return this otherwise excellent camera.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Part 1-14 was also stuck in my case. I finally cushioned it a bit with tape and twisted it off with Channelock pliers. The damage was minimal and easily retouched with a black Sharpie pen. This was my beater camera anyway. I have an almost new one too. Afterwards, the stubborn ring went back on similarly, and everything works fine. Once that wretched thing is off, the rest of the process is easy. Carefully remove and retain the little screws and remove the whole top. After that the inside of the viewfinder window is accessible and easily cleaned. Just be aware that spare parts are no longer available unless you buy an AS-is camera for sake of parts cannibalization. So don't outright break anything.

No need to unsolder or disconnect any wiring. Just be careful not to detach it during the process. And note the NOTE; it's important.

 

[manfrominternet]

Part 1-14 was also stuck in my case. I finally cushioned it a bit with tape and twisted it off with Channelock pliers. The damage was minimal and easily retouched with a black Sharpie pen. This was my beater camera anyway. I have an almost new one too. Afterwards, the stubborn ring went back on similarly, and everything works fine. Once that wretched thing is off, the rest of the process is easy. Carefully remove and retain the little screws and remove the whole top. After that the inside of the viewfinder window is accessible and easily cleaned. Just be aware that spare parts are no longer available unless you buy an AS-is camera for sake of parts cannibalization. So don't outright break anything.

No need to unsolder or disconnect any wiring. Just be careful not to detach it during the process. And note the NOTE; it's important.

Thank you so, so much for this! Part 1-14 is an absolute nightmare, indeed. I’m literally tending to a blister on my pointer finger caused by putting in so much force to twist, with no success. Unless you (or anyone) have other ideas, I’ve been thinking about getting pliers with soft, rubberized tips for this, based on your method (which is brilliant, by the way). I’d perhaps also cushion it with tape like you did. If you have any suggestions for tape or pliers, I’d love to hear them.

Thank you so much again! It’s nice to know that I’m not the only one who has suffered from the dreaded part 1-14!!!

 

[Dan Daniel]

The hardware store should have rubber stoppers- they can be tried. Also look for some black rubber gasket material to make a collar or a pad for trying to remove.

If you have a bicycle shop nearby, drop in and see if they have any of that spacer material that comes in lights to space out the brackets on handlebars and such. There is some that is softer than neoprene gasket material but still hard enough to give some bite.

If you have access to a laser cutter, you can make a wrench like shown below from acrylic.

Before going to the hardware store, drip some ammonia in the seam. It can help dissolve any aluminum corrosion. Sometimes the Fuji GWs have some serious corrosion at the assorted screws. Many glass cleaners have ammonia in them if you don't have simple ammonia.

 

[Auer]

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...y_tool_jht9537_120_brass_hand_plier_12.html/?

 

[Huss]

Good luck with the fix!

Yeah, I've had similar experiences buying GW690IiI from Japan. Sellers never mentioned that. Ended up getting one in the US that was perfect.

 

[4season]

Can anyone help me with how I can fix this? I looked at the Fuji GW690III Service Manual (https://galerie-photo.com/manuels/fuji-gw-gsw-690iii-service-manual-en.pdf) and it includes a description on how to remove the top cover assembly on page 12, as well as a diorama on page 13 that shows how to take off the top part of the Fuji camera so that I can actually get to the rangefinder/viewfinder part to work my cleaning magic. It says, rather vaguely, "Apply a piece of rubber sheet to the shutter release assembly and turn it to remove, and pull out the advance film lever, stopper, [and] shutter release shaft." View attachment 285167 View attachment 285168

The problem is that it is seems impossible for me to turn the shutter release assembly. I can move it just a little, but that doesn't do anything. I already have blisters on my thumb from doing this for so long.

Can anyone explain please explain how to do this properly, step by step?

Old adhesives including thread-locking compounds can often be softened using solvents such as isopropyl alcohol or acetone, but beware that some solvents melt plastic and damage painted surfaces, so if in doubt, test on an inconspicuous area. Even if you had a wrench which gave you a lot more leverage, beware lest you wind up tearing the camera apart.

 

[beemermark]

If I got a $220 refund I'd use the money to have a professional do a CLA.

 

[manfrominternet]

Old adhesives including thread-locking compounds can often be softened using solvents such as isopropyl alcohol or acetone, but beware that some solvents melt plastic and damage painted surfaces, so if in doubt, test on an inconspicuous area. Even if you had a wrench which gave you a lot more leverage, beware lest you wind up tearing the camera apart.

Great advice! Thank you for mentioning (and reminding me about) this! I once had an incident where I was trying to loosen the joints of an older Linhof Technikardan 45. I used 91% isoproplyl alcohol and, while the joint did indeed loosen, I ended up stripping off some very important dimension markings that can now never be recovered.

I suppose treading lightly is the name of the game in the camera repair arena.

 

[manfrominternet]

If I got a $220 refund I'd use the money to have a professional do a CLA.

Believe it or not, I'm actually using that refund money (which was very generous, I might add) to purchase professional camera repair tools as my goal is to be a film camera repair specialist.
To your point, however, I've contacted practically every camera repair specialist in Los Angeles and beyond to fix my Fuji, and they all said that they don't repair film cameras anymore. It's very frustrating as it's evidently a very niche thing.
Last I heard, however, there is/was a place in South Florida (Southern Photo Technical Service?) that still repairs Fuji film cameras, but I don't know if they're any good. I've read mixed reviews about their service. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[beemermark]

Believe it or not, I'm actually using that refund money (which was very generous, I might add) to purchase professional camera repair tools as my goal is to be a film camera repair specialist.
To your point, however, I've contacted practically every camera repair specialist in Los Angeles and beyond to fix my Fuji, and they all said that they don't repair film cameras anymore. It's very frustrating as it's evidently a very niche thing.
Last I heard, however, there is/was a place in South Florida (Southern Photo Technical Service?) that still repairs Fuji film cameras, but I don't know if they're any good. I've read mixed reviews about their service. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

If you want to become a repair person then I think you did the right thing. There are plenty of repair shops that repair film cameras. I use Crystal Camera in Asheville, NC. Too many people today think you need a specialist (i.e. Nikon for Nikon) or nobody exists. Any competent repair person should be able to fix almost any mechanical film camera. Late model Rolleiflex's are extremely complicated and so are Early Nikon F's. But once you really learn the basics of film camera repair then any model is repairable (if you want to spend the time and the customer wants to spend the money for your time). I'm a Klutz at dissembling and reassembly small stuff but being a mechanical engineer I've bought a lot of repair books over the years just out of curiosity. Do you need a curtain spring? You should have the knowledge and skill to make a spring as an example. So the world (or maybe the US) needs repair people but don't specialize, learn the basics.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Soft jaw pliers are the right idea. But mine wouldn't handle the torque needed for such a stubborn part. Actually, as my memory gets clearer, I used a needed-nosed Vise Grip with a lot of vinyl electrical tape over the teeth, and that worked. The recommended repair place said they no longer serviced them because no replacement parts were available anymore; and if something went wrong, the policy was to send back the camera as is, potentially dismantled in a bag. That's often the case with repair contracts. They have no other choice under those kind of circumstances, so wisely choose to avoid the potential scenario entirely, and just say No. And they didn't know anyone else who could do it either. Same problem everywhere. So like you, I ordered a copy of the repair manual and did it myself.

Solvents aren't going to help if the aluminum alloy itself has essentially corroded together. Aluminum Jelly would be too risky. Whether any of those posted brass devices would do the job is hard to say. I my case it wouldn't have - the brass would be too smooth and soft, and just strip. Acrylic or rubber gasket material - ha! - might as well use a block of butter.

But overall, I was dealing with a bargain camera to begin with - the primary lens was like new, not even a bit of dust, because someone had left a filter over it the whole time, which was itself all scratched up. And the insides were immaculate. But then someone had broken a tip of a cable release off in the socket, and probably figured it would be an expensive repair. But it took me about 30 seconds with an ordinary drill bit and easy-out screw extractor (about a two dollar expenditure) to get it out. The exterior plastic portion of the rangefinder window I simply polished with appropriate plastic polish.

So overall, I'm happy with the end result, and have already reliably used that camera under some punishing circumstances, including a hundred mile trek involving a lot of harsh mountain weather - blizzards and rainstorms.

 

[4season]

I'm actually using that refund money (which was very generous, I might add) to purchase professional camera repair tools as my goal is to be a film camera repair specialist.

That's the way to do it if you want access to the best bargains and gear that other people only dream of using because of a lack of parts or technicians willing to take the job.

IMO, this or similar is one of the best tool buys you can make, and more you can use it instead of a spanner, the better.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...hobby_tool_jht9520_vacuum_pad_for_camera.html

 

[manfrominternet]

Soft jaw pliers are the right idea. But mine wouldn't handle the torque needed for such a stubborn part. Actually, as my memory gets clearer, I used a needed-nosed Vise Grip with a lot of vinyl electrical tape over the teeth, and that worked. The recommended repair place said they no longer serviced them because no replacement parts were available anymore; and if something went wrong, the policy was to send back the camera as is, potentially dismantled in a bag. That's often the case with repair contracts. They have no other choice under those kind of circumstances, so wisely choose to avoid the potential scenario entirely, and just say No. And they didn't know anyone else who could do it either. Same problem everywhere. So like you, I ordered a copy of the repair manual and did it myself.

Solvents aren't going to help if the aluminum alloy itself has essentially corroded together. Aluminum Jelly would be too risky. Whether any of those posted brass devices would do the job is hard to say. I my case it wouldn't have - the brass would be too smooth and soft, and just strip. Acrylic or rubber gasket material - ha! - might as well use a block of butter.

But overall, I was dealing with a bargain camera to begin with - the primary lens was like new, not even a bit of dust, because someone had left a filter over it the whole time, which was itself all scratched up. And the insides were immaculate. But then someone had broken a tip of a cable release off in the socket, and probably figured it would be an expensive repair. But it took me about 30 seconds with an ordinary drill bit and easy-out screw extractor (about a two dollar expenditure) to get it out. The exterior plastic portion of the rangefinder window I simply polished with appropriate plastic polish.

So overall, I'm happy with the end result, and have already reliably used that camera under some punishing circumstances, including a hundred mile trek involving a lot of harsh mountain weather - blizzards and rainstorms.

Drew, your talents never fail to impress me. I've actually learned a lot from you by perusing and reading your various posts here and on the LF photography forum. That said, I feel lucky living in an age where I can read an expert's various methods on various topics. Regarding my GW690III, I actually jumped onto Amazon and purchased several soft jaw pliers and several tapes (some thin, some slightly thicker, including electrical tape), and a small rubberized jaw opener. This was my pretty much my nuclear bomb approach. I'll return the items I don't use. If I can get that damn circular shutter release assembly off, I'll be a very happy guy.

Drew, I also noticed that your a fan of the Pentax 67II with the Rigid Magnifying Hood, if i'm not mistaken. I absolutely LOVE that camera with the setup. Throw in a 105mm f/2.4 SMC, 55mm f/4 SMC, 55mm-100mm f/4.5 SMC, 90mm-180mm f/5.6 SMC, and the 200mm f/4 SMC and I'm a very happy camper...

 

[DREW WILEY]

Well, I don't want to derail it to Pentax, but I normally use the regular prism finder. The chimney finder is great unless you need to shoot either vertical or handheld. Sometimes I'll carry two small shoulder bags, one for the Fuji 6x9 RF, the other perhaps with a P67 with a 165 tele. Anything more serious like a 300EDIF requires a backpack, plus a much heavier tripod. It's all fun. The Fuji RF is especially good if you have to work quick, especially handheld, and are OK with the single lens it comes with.
I've got a 6X9 neg in the enlarger carrier right now, ready for my next printing session, which would have been almost impossible to get in the manner I wished with slower equipment. Sure, the 8X10 camera would be great, but this was a known location which attracts visitors like flies on sunny days. But it was a foggy day and just a few people were around, and I was able to carry the tripod over my shoulder rifle-style and rapidly bag a few shots when no people were in view. I don't care if they're fellow photographers or not. There's really no competition. I print differently regardless. But I suspect 99% of visitors are taking selfies with cell phones and actually blocking most of the scene itself with their own face. Typical.
If a tele perspective would have been preferable, I would have brought the P67 instead. I don't shoot any wider than a 75 with that, though I once owned a 55; but it was my older brother who really loved the 55.

 

[Huss]

..
To your point, however, I've contacted practically every camera repair specialist in Los Angeles and beyond to fix my Fuji, and they all said that they don't repair film cameras anymore.¯

You tried site sponsor Zacks camera repair?

You tried in LA:
1. Steve's Camera Service www.stevecamera.com
2. Dean's Camera Repair 310 782 8619
3. Walters Camera Repair www.walterscamerarepairs.com

All the above work on film cameras. Who did you call?

 

[DREW WILEY]

The last place in the COUNTRY who once offered service for these specifically no longer does it. They can't. No replacement parts are available from Fuji itself anymore. Everyone is in the same boat in that respect. So if it all boils down to a pair of pliers, might as well do it yourself and save the money. Once that retaining ring if off, the rest is easy.

 

[manfrominternet]

So I've used every one of the new tools I've purchased from Amazon, inclusing 2 different rubberized pliers, 2 different types of double sided tape, silicone jar openers, a silicone/rubber mat, rubbing alcohol and ammonia (dropped in via a q-tip to help loosen) and NONE of them worked to release the Shutter Release Assembly, no pun intended. I've even used a rubber stopper and that didn't work either.

The Shutter Release Assembly has almost no side to grip onto as it's basically a curve. This makes grabbing it very hard, if not impossible. (See attached.)

I called all my local camera stores and, but (as Drew aptly pointed out) none of my local camera stores can do this kind of repair, especially if the Shutter Release Assembly can't come off, as I've carefully explained to them.

Dan Daniel was kind enough to email me all the very well-thought out tips he could think of, but even all of his suggestions couldn't get this damn thing to open.

So now I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong. Should the shutter be cocked or not when twisting the SRA? (If you look at the Fuji GW690III Service Repair Manual that I took a screenshot of earlier in this thread, it says "When removing the top cover, [we] recommend the shutter be charged." However, I assume that means after the Shutter Release Assembly comes off, given in the order of where it was written.) Should the film advance lever be in a certain position, or be twisted somehow along with the Shutter Release Assembly? Also, should the shutter button be depressed or not? I'm imagining that the Fuji GW690III service repair manual wasn't exactly written for amateurs, so it's not all that detailed on how to do this particular repair...

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Might be a reverse screw....

 

[monst]

A lot of these are a reverse thread, leica's are too. Could be worth trying to screw it the other way.

 

[campy51]

Someone earlier mentioned that the aluminum maybe corroded together. If that's the case I read nothing will free it. I have a Contarex 35mm lens that the focus ring is frozen and nothing I did freed it up. I even put it in the freezer as suggested by someone to make it shrink and that didn't work. I just searched and found a few people mentioning "Corrosion Block" used on boats.
https://learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html

 

[Dan Daniel]

Someone earlier mentioned that the aluminum maybe corroded together. If that's the case I read nothing will free it. I have a Contarex 35mm lens that the focus ring is frozen and nothing I did freed it up. I even put it in the freezer as suggested by someone to make it shrink and that didn't work. I just searched and found a few people mentioning "Corrosion Block" used on boats.
https://learchem.com/products/corrosion-block.html

Blowtorch?

Seriously, I had a seized wind knob on a Fuji Super 6 that needed to come off to get the top off to clean the viewfinder. Ended up cooking it with a small blowtorch again and again, and it finally let go. Of course, it was polished aluminum finish, not black paint.

 

[manfrominternet]

A quick update!: I purchased some pure ammonia and doused the entire shutter release assembly with it a few times and gave it a good half hour to set each time, and even with all the tools I had recently received from Amazon at my disposal, I still couldn't get the damn thing to open! After staring at the GW690III service manual, I hatched a plan to disassemble the camera from the bottom up to get to the rangefinder glass. So, that said, I unscrewed off the bottom plate as well as the plastic piece directly under the front viewfinder, which was a bit tricky as I had to remove the little straight vertical rubber grip to get to the screws. Anyway, I managed to get that plastic part under the viewfinder off. I unscrewed all the screws for the entire top plastic assembly, and while the film advance lever wouldn't let me move said top plastic assembly much, it still gave me just enough wiggle room to get to the front part of the viewfinder (and rear part of the clear plastic in front of the viewfinder of the top front plastic assembly). And Voilà! I managed to insert a rubbing alcohol-doused q-tip that I had 'thinned out' with the clean new pliers I had bought and subsequently gently started cleaning both the inside part of top plastic assembly clear plastic and the front part of the internal viewfinder. I did it all carefully with extreme caution, but at least managed to get that front part extremely clean, to a point where it looks spotless.

Nonetheless, the actual inside of the rangefinder is now the challenge since there's still a bit of residual fog, specifically on the lens nearest to your eye when you unscrew the rear diopter. (It's the side of the lens that's facing inward, of course, with the fog that I can't get to). Since I've now basically given up on ever removing the shutter release assembly, I'm not sure how to clean this. Any thoughts? (I've attached a photo so you can see what I mean.)

 

[campy51]

Do you think that eye piece is just glued to the top cover? If so put some lighter fluid around it and see if it just pull out or unscrew.

 

[Dan Daniel]

A half hour soak with ammonia is not enough. That's a 24 hour job.