Build a Maple, Ash or White Oak stand of 4" or 5" limbs, three quality 5" locking wheels, and some "T" track, with a simple camera arm leading to a steel plate which supports your camera.
First make the basic support with three horizontal 'legs at 120 degrees to each other, and one long vertical beam, which is your center support.
Use glue and long spiral nails from a good nail gun, or long stainless screws, with a hex or square drive hole,to hold this together.
Your unite must be square and there is plenty of video on Youtube to show you how.
Under the assembled legs, place the locking wheels, at the outside ends of the legs, just in enough that the wheels do no extend beyond the leg, from any of the 360 degree positions it might rotate into.
A 1/2 inch clearance is plenty.
Lay three ( you can use two) "T" tracks vertical to the side you want to mount the camera to, side by side, along the area of the vertical that your arm will be used, using the entire width of the beam to do so.
In Example, the first and third tracks span the width of the beam, with No. 2 postioned in the middle.
In this track system, you'll use a triangle 'plate' of metal, to mount the arm. Space the base plate so you have a good three dimensional irregular triangle layout, for supporting the arm's three tubes, which will become one unit, when the loose ends are joined together to the camera support plate.
Place a "T" block insert on the beam side of the supporting angled plate and secure in place, on the beam.
Use two or three loose T blocks with holes for tightening knobs or levers, one beneath each of the plates running blocks, so you may tighten these to keep the arm in place. (you could instead, drill and tap the supporting blocks for a locking knob feature on each T block.)
Fix the arm tubes (About 1 in. OD, no smaller) to the traveling triangle on the vertical beam, so the come together at a far enough distance from the beam, for easy camera mounting and use, and join them together by welding to the steel camera support plate's bottom.
You will have to decide before hand, where the mounting screws for the camera will be located and go ahead and drill and tap these before joining.
lastly, raise the completed arm, to the top of the beam tracks, lock it in place and run a length of steel cable (Plastic wrapped) from the top of the beam plate, over a set of small wheels, designed to run cable , over the top and to the top of the back side, falling to the bottom of the base of the vertical, where it can be cut and fitted to a weighted pvc wide tube or sacks with quick release carabiners.
the backside cable will swing freely, but with normal raising and lowering, should behave quite well, so do no worry that it is to do so.
If you must have more control, place a "T' track on that side of the beam, with a T block tricked out to hold the end of the cable and weighted sacks or tube, as it moves up and down the backside.
Do no forget, that you'll need a locking T block above the joined cable block, to keep it in place when you find your camera height.
This should be the last thing you need to do and I doubt it will cost much to do, especially if you have some aged hardwood, beams to work with.
It also should move smoothly, as I use the same sized wheels, on concrete, wood and carpeted floors, on a 36 inch wide tri-beam easel that rose to 9.5 feet.with a plastic hard bin with wheels, mounted on the back side for storage.
This uses two locking wheels and two simple swivels up front and the quality wheels will allow the easel to move smoothly and with little force, then solidly lock into place, with the locking wheels, locked.
Ive used at least two or three, all metal types of studio supports, and though this is no as 'sleek' as those, it should be solid and vibration free when positioned and locked up.
PS, you can always cut a plywood board to span between the far side legs and ask your local garage or tire shop, dor their scrap lead bucket contents, which you can use as additional counter/steadying weight, or simply to fill the weight sacks/tube so it has a smaller 'footprint' than weights of sand.
IMO.