Camera Kit for Urban Exploration?

[Markok765]

I was wondering what to bring when I go urbexing.

Here are my/your choices

Full 35mm Kit.
Pentax
Pentax Spotmeter V
35mm
55mm
105mm
External flash
Filters.
Tripod

P&S
Olympus Stylus Epic
Tripod

Toy
Holga
External flash
Tripod.

And films for all.

What do you think? I'm leaning toward the full kit, but it may restrict climbing a bit. I also would carry the olympus in a pocket.

Thanks, and keep photographing!

 

[Russ - SVP]

SLR with one lens, or a rangefinder.

Kiron kid

 

[brian steinberger]

Rangefinder is perfect for street photography. I personaly love the Mamiya 6. But for your choices, I'd take the Pentax with 35 and 55. Shoot some 400 speed film, I love Fuji Neopan 400 in Xtol 1:1. But the best advice I have to offer is... Take the Holga!!!

Brian

 

[film_guy]

I'll go with the smallest and most-discreet SLR or rangefinder you have. You need a way to stay incognito while doing street photography.

 

[GeoffHill]

For urbex, I'd take fast film, a tripod, and a wide zoom if you have one. The canon 17-40 f/4 (or 16 - 35 f/2.8 if you are rich) are ideal.

I'm not sure where youre exploring, but if you aren't meant to be there, using flash will ensure everyone knows you are there. I wouldnt bother carrying all the gear you are talking about. It just gets in the way

 

[mabman]

What exactly do you intend to "explore"? A tripod can be useful, but if you intend to walk around a lot and/or get into small/awkward places I think it's going to hinder more than help.

My suggestion would be to take the Stylus Epic (no tripod) the first time you try this - it has something of an integrated flash, and is very small and light. If you find you're actually in places where you can use a tripod and/or a bigger camera, do that next time (and if you find yourself walking around for hours, weight will be an issue as well).

Actually, if you end up doing this a lot, another option might work better for you - an Argus C3, aka "The Brick" - mass-produced American rangefinders, not pretty, but solid, cheap, and plentiful. The lenses on these things are really sharp, and in a pinch you can use one as a weapon And, if you lose it, damage it, or have it stolen, no big deal, get another one. I got mine from a guy on another forum for a premium - $35 - as he had actually used it and could confirm it worked as intended. They usually go for cheaper than that on eBay (although you might need a handheld light meter with The Brick if you're not going to be able to use "Sunny 16" reliably).

 

[Soeren]

Go with what you've got. The Pentax with the 35mm zonefocussed and taped at say 3-5m and f/8-11.
Put in some fast film e.g. Neopan 1600 and you should get reasonably eksposures in even dull light.
The Holga with 400-3200 ISO film will do too. You could even do som color shots with it that would be cool.
Kind regards

 

[John Kasaian]

Kodak reflex brownie and efke r100 film. No flash (just hold the shutter open longer) No tripod. Cool!

 

[Steve Smith]

Make sure you have the correct explorer's outfit too.

 

[removed account4]

one camera one lens ... the olympus is OK,
you just have ot remember where it is focusing
(since it zone focuses and is always wide open ).

 

[Mike Wilde]

Might be better to explain that urbex isn't a walk down the street

In toronto hipster circles urbex is like explore an abandon building, crawl up a sewer grate etc. These can be pretty physical situations. If you really need to squeeze, go whole hog, and pick up a 2" collaspibe fan reflector and a stash of AG-1 flashbulbs. They leave the amount of light that an integrated camera flash packs in the dust. There are many urbex situations where available light is not an option, unless you want your highlights blown and then expose for 10 minutes to get any detail in the very dark shadows.

Learn about stand or semi stand development techniques to learn how to tame the extreme contrast ranges that such shooting ends up leaving as miles wide contrast in the captured latent images.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

But, yeah, Markok. Light and lean is definitely the way to go. Adds to time you can dedicate continously without having to lug around your customized Alan Ross studio with you. Whatever you can fit in your pockets. And take BIG pockets.

 

[Paul Howell]

Use a photo vest with lots of pockets, a 35mm slr or a rangefinder with a fast wide like a 28mm 2.0 or 2.8, fast normal 50mm 1.4 or 1.2 short tele such as 90 or 105. If your pentex is 42mm SM an 85mm 1.8 would be very useful. For a SLR a wide to short tele such as 28mm to 80 or 28 to 105 some pro level zoons are somewhat fast 2.8 or 3.4. A small light weight monopod, I have a Bolex that was made for 16mm movie cameras, if you can find one there were very light tripods make in the 60s that although somewhat flimsy fold up to pocket size, A compact flash with tilt head, filters and batteries.

 

[Markok765]

So, go light, bring a tripod [May get a small tabletop one] and don't bring a bag?

 

[Markok765]

Learn about stand or semi stand development techniques to learn how to tame the extreme contrast ranges that such shooting ends up leaving as miles wide contrast in the captured latent images.

I stand develop less than 400speed film, in Rodinal, anything faster goes into tmax developer.

 

[Markok765]

Thanks everyone! I need to find a location, and then I'll bring a tabletop tripod [If I can buy one] and the olympus. I'll bring lots of film and a light. How is this?