- Joined
- Oct 26, 2015
- Messages
- 6,764
- Format
- 35mm
No wrench just a needle nose. Better than it was, could use a few more degrees but I have to dig up a wrench. Thanks!
There should be a locknut under the lever so you can loosen that, put the lever where you want it, and re-tighten the nut. You will need a very thin open end SAE wrench. Oh yes, the threads are reversed!
Kino would know...there are hundreds of things that can go wrong here...
I think the most common error is the focusing lens (upper) is not the one that takes the movie. The taking lens is the middle one.
Then the aperture has to be set based on a shutter speed 2.5 times the filming speed.
The viewfinder needs to be set for the same focal length as the taking lens.
The parallax knob on the viewfinder needs to be set the same as the lens distance indicator.
Oh, did the subject move...start over...
Yes that too!
However, that picture is the 'storage' position as I only have one cap. Those three Kern Switars in D mount are somewhat rare, most dual 8 Bolex were sold with the the 3-element Kern Yvar lenses, which take a smaller cap (see below).
The Switar lenses on my camera are 6 and ten element. Yes that f0.9 12mm Switar with the cap is ten element!
I have been looking for years for a cap for the 36mm Switar. Even considering buying another lens just for the cap and selling the lens.
Also, all the C mount lenses for the 16mm cameras use a bigger cap that won't fit.
The Nikon FM(2)'s shutter lock mechanism being integrated into the advance lever... is that ever annoying. It gives me a trite excuse to use a Nikkormat or FG-20 instead and so adds some utility to those bodies.
There should be a locknut under the lever so you can loosen that, put the lever where you want it, and re-tighten the nut. You will need a very thin open end SAE wrench. Oh yes, the threads are reversed!
Reading the focusing scales incorrectly on your Retina IIIc auxiliary lenses. Argh!
The original method certainly avoided mistakes. If I used them more often the rotating scale seems easier, but the way the scales are labeled, it's easy to get them backwards if you're in a hurry. Almost would have been better if the inner scale was labeled 50mm.
The color coding of the scales was, in theory, intended to reduce that confusion… in theory.
Forgetting to tighten the tripod head and having your finger between the plate and the bottom landing zone of the head
I've done that very thing! Thankfully, only 4X5! I'm also guilty of forgetting to pull the darkslide and forgetting to close the shutter after focusing. As has been stated: there are myriad ways to screw up LF.I've done that. I've also done the darkslide-between-the-holder-and-the-camera.
Using 8x10, I missed getting one side of the film under the flange (I assume) and, after shooting the film, brought it to the darkroom to get it out and develop it. No film in the holder. It was in the camera.
The Nikon FM(2)'s shutter lock mechanism being integrated into the advance lever... is that ever annoying. It gives me a trite excuse to use a Nikkormat or FG-20 instead and so adds some utility to those bodies.
The burden of being left eyed is getting poked in the right
RB67 Pro S
Oh, that reminds me of the time I took a series of portraits of my kids, all on the first frame of my RB67. Advancing the film had simply slipped my mind.
been there, done that
Part of why I like my folding range finder. I've yet to try to take a photo with it while the lens was closed.I've taken my fair share of photos of the INSIDE of lens caps when using rangefinder cameras.
The "mirror up" mode on the Mamiya RB67 has caught me, once. Forgetting to cancel it means for the next roll the camera feels the same, sounds the same, the film winds normally, all the safety interlocks work, but the lens shutter never opens ... blank film, arrgh!
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?