Cambo Master locking mechanism problem and several other LF questions

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On the rear standart of my Cambo Master the locking mechanism (on top of the standart) for attaching the bellows and the back gets in the way when I try to insert my horseman roll film holder in portrait mode. In landscape mode it fits.

On my film holders and the roll film holder there are two protruding edges on the side of the holder closest to the dark slide. On the horseman back the one of these edges (the closest to the darkslide) protrudes a little extra and interferes with the locking mechanism on top of the standart and hence cannot be inserted in portrait mode. No problem in landscape mode however since the locking mechanism that is in the way is on the top of the standart.

Similarly but the other way around (landscape mode instead of portrait mode) with the spring held part of the ground glass holder, the upper edge of the frame (what is right edge in portrait mode) interferes slightly with the locking mechanism making the upper part of the spring held part of the ground glass holder not to settle completely against the rest of the back (1-2mm).

Is this a supposed to be feature of these cameras/holders? I cannot imagine this to be true since other parts of the camera seem to have very high precision.

Would it be stupid to fix this by removing part of those edges that interferes carefully with a dremmel tool?

Finally, I bought the camera used including
* Cambo master camera with bellows, international holder and ground glass
* Rodenstock Sironar-N MC 150mm f/5.6 (what is the difference with APO-Sironar-N?)
* Rodenstock Sironar-N MC 210mm f/5.6
* Two horseman 6x9 rollfilm backs
* Five double sided film holders (turned out to be 9x12cm instead of 4x5" which I was told)
* Cambo focusing loupe
* bellows lens shade
I paid 6000 SEK (corresponding to approx €666, or $850). Everything else really seems in mint condition. Was I ripped off?

What would be reasonable prices to pay for 4x5" holders (both new and used)?

Sorry for my bad English.

Richard (new to Large Format in practice)
 

Soeren

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Hi Richard
To me it seems to be a reasonable price. I asked my photopusher some time ago about a technicardan E with one lens and some 4X5 filmholders: 10.000 DKR (1333 €) so you got a lot for your 4800 DKR. On The danish equevalent to E-bay the prices on LF gear is about 4000 to 10.000 DKR depending on accessories included.
Bad english ? where ?
Regards Søren
 

Bob F.

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Rodenstock Sironar-N MC 150mm f/5.6 (what is the difference with APO-Sironar-N?)
No difference apparently: on Kerry Thalmann's site he states that the Sironar-N was already an APO lens before it was actually marked as such (and you can trust Kerry on these matters): http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/

Those EURs, USDs, DKRs and SEKs translate to about 460 GBP in real money... so I'd say you got a very good deal indeed there.

A possible answer to one of your problems is here: http://largeformatphotography.info/lfforum/topic/499253.html - but to be honest, I could not quite follow the details of your problem to be sure...

In the UK, new 4x5 holders are around 20GBP each including VAT.

Have fun with your new toys :wink:.... Bob.
 

Thilo Schmid

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Galaxens President said:
On the rear standart of my Cambo Master the locking mechanism (on top of the standart) for attaching the bellows and the back gets in the way when I try to insert my horseman roll film holder in portrait mode. In landscape mode it fits.
Maybe you can insert it the other way round, if your back is at the end of the rail.

Galaxens President said:
Similarly but the other way around (landscape mode instead of portrait mode) with the spring held part of the ground glass holder, the upper edge of the frame (what is right edge in portrait mode) interferes slightly with the locking mechanism making the upper part of the spring held part of the ground glass holder not to settle completely against the rest of the back (1-2mm).

Is this a supposed to be feature of these cameras/holders? I cannot imagine this to be true since other parts of the camera seem to have very high precision.
I have a Cambo Legend, but the back sould be similar to yours. I'm not sure, if I fully undestood your point. But I have encountered a similar problem. If I close the back too slowly, it sometimes happen that it does not close properly. If you switch the lever back and forth, the back sould be fully closed. Otherwise you will not be focusing on the film plane.
 
OP
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Thanks, you asserting that I have not been ripped off makes me feel better. I reallize my description is not that easy to understand withour pictures. I'll try to post some illustrations:
The locking mechanism:
Dead Link Removed
The edge on the roll film holder that interferes with it:
Dead Link Removed
The edge of the springloaded part of the groundglass holder that interferes with the lockin mechanism:
Dead Link Removed
 
OP
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Thilo Schmid said:
Maybe you can insert it the other way round, if your back is at the end of the rail.
Unfortunetely that is not possible because the slits in the back are only located on two sides, moreover, the darkslide will interfere with the base of the rear standart, and the otherway in landscape mode the L shape form of the standart arm will be in the way. To me it seems like removing small parts that interfere with the locking mechanism is the only way. I just hasitate putting my dremmel tool to work on a camera.
 

Thilo Schmid

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Cambo has a nice revolving back, which allows you to change the orientation even after you pulled the darkslide. However, I rarely found a second hand offer for such a back and it still may not solve your problem (however and AFAIK, the revolving back has slightly more distance between the graflock and the lock of the standard).
 

John Koehrer

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Galaxens President
I think you would be OK removing the section indcated in your image. But!
Since the metals used in the back are relatively soft I would suggest using hobbyists files rather than attacking it with a dremel.
If the metal is aluminum or white metal it will file down very quickly & you can examine progress carefully & get a much smoother surface. You may even decide to remove the addditional ridge completely for cosmetic reasons.
 
OP
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Yep the files was definitely a better tool for the job. Now everything fits nicely in both landscape and portrait. I'll see if i can get hold of some flat black paint made for fixing camera wear and apply it to hide the shiny aluminum.

Thank you all for your help and input!
/Richard
 
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