Calling All Hasselblad 500 c/m Owners

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Hubigpielover

Hubigpielover

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LOL, I actually have quite a flat belly at the moment due to training and eating judiciously. I mostly use my 80mm when out and about, but also have a 150mm and now in the market for a 50mm to complete the "holy trinity".

Agree on this. I recycled that same strap from my DSLR, just buying the appropriate attachments for the Hasselblad (they are not that expensive).


Hopefully now Lent is in full swing I can lose some weight. Boiled seafood can't be that fattening. There is a guy who has some old Hasselblad straps that are about the same price as the one you recommended but doesn't look as comfortable.

I started in 1972 with the standard combo 500CM with 80C, added the 150C in 1973 and the 50C T* in 1974. If I was starting from scratch today, I would go with the 50 CF, 100 CF and the 180CF. All of those can use the Bay 60 filters.

Here's the actual link, i typed it in cold earlier and forgot www, http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu

Nothing wrong with the 60 for getting your feet wet, I have a 3 lens kit with 60, 80 and 150, if I had to ditch one, it would likely be the 80. As for 60 vs 80, the 80 is faster which can be nice, but the 60 is slightly sharper. If your vision likes wide, it would be a good way to start.

I use the Hasselblad straps, because I like the fastening clips on them better than the op tech, but the op techs are nice otherwise.


I'm gonna post a link to a 60 and tell me what you think but looking at pictures with the 60, I like them. And like someone else mentioned, I won't lose any money on it.

It's just another format you can shoot with the Hasselblad V series, same 120 roll film but 16 images to a roll in a rectangular format . . . 6x4.5. Like I said . . . some compositions work better in a rectangular vs square format. I like having the choice . . YMMV :wink:

Like this one . . .

https://www.photrio.com/forum/media/summer-stream-hillsborough-nh.58876/

I cannot agree more with this ^^^^^

That's a really awesome shot. Guess that is one more thing to add to the list.

IIRC, there are distinct differences between the 60mm and 80mm lenses when it comes to minimum focusing distance and length of focus "throw".
The Hasselblad users here will correct me if I am wrong.
But if I am right, if either of those characteristics matter to you, you may wish to factor them in to your choice(s).
Personally I tend to lean toward the 60mm focal length - my square format "standard" lens is a 65mm (Mamiya) lens.

My Minolta is 75 and my Olympus is a regular 50mm. I think I am overthinking this and need to just to make a plunge and figure it out by talking pictures.

The 60mm lens is too close to the 80mm lens so I recommend the 50mm and 80mm or 50mm and 100mm lenses. I recommend:
38mm [SWC]. 50mm, 80mm, 150mm [or 180mm], 250mm or
38mm [SWC]. 50mm, 100mm, 150mm [or 180mm], 250mm
I own the 30mm [Fisheye]; 38mm [SWC]. 50mm, 80mm, 100mm,150mm, 250mm, 500mm and 3XE. I do not have the 120mm or 135mm because I would not use them enough for close up work. Instead I use fixed length extension tubes.

I have a 503 CX and 903, not a 500 C/M.

That's quite a setup you have. One of my friends said when he had a 500 that he used 60/100/180. What are you thoughts on that setup?

Consider getting a prism finder if you want to shoot (relatively) quickly and easily. I never got on very well with the WLF myself.

Also I agree if you think 80% of your shots will be of buildings you will find the 80mm a bit limiting FOV-wise. The 60mm or 50mm FLE may be a better option there, although they are slower. They are both optically better than the 80mm though. Also consider that the 80mm isn't really a very flattering focal length for close up shots of people (say, head and shoulders type shots); for that 120mm+ is more effective. The 120mm Makro and 180mm Sonnar are superlative portrait lenses.

Man, I'm like a kid in a candy store right now. So many options and so little money.

Hasselblad lenses shorter than 60mm are huge hunks of glass. The beauty of the Hasselblad design is compactness and not being too heavy for using hand held. The 150mm, like the 80mm, is easy to hand hold. The 60mm is a nice compromise and makes a compact, easy to carry package. Lenses shorter than 60mm are heavy.
I use heavy 300mm Olympic Sonnar and 400mm Leitz and Kilfit lenses on tripod mounted 2000FCM, but that’s a completely different topic. If my 2000FCM outlasts me (fingers crossed) I doubt a longer Hasselblad lens is in my future.

Thanks for the help. How would you feel about a 60/100/180 setup?

Autocords have 75mm lenses which are just slightly wider than the Zeiss 80mm. If you feel that you need something just a little wider then try a 60mm.

Used Zeiss lenses have stabilized in price. If you buy a lens and after trying it, decide that you don't want it, you can always sell and get most of your money back. Any little bit you lose just figure it as a cheap rental fee.

I never thought of it like that. That is a good point. I do need to go wider than the 75mm. I love my Autocord but it isn't wide enough for some shoots plus having interchangable backs would help with a project that is coming up.

The 60mm is a marvelous and often overlooked lens. I advise many folks to consider the 100mm Planar and the 60mm Distagon. The 100mm is one of the standout Hasselblad choices, and the 60 is a nice all rounder. I even bought the Rollei version when I moved onto the Hy6.

That is they way I am leaning and maybe adding a 180. Thanks,

After I got the swc, I concluded that the 50mm was rather useless, so I sold it and never regretted it. But I like wide angle and I like the convenience of having two camera’s instead of having to change lenses.
Regards,
Frank

Thanks!

For travel to Europe I use the 38mm [SWC], 50mm and 80mm lenses.

It's all relative. As soon as your kit grows beyond a Hassy with a single lens you have to accept the fact you'll be lugging some weight around, but it's still not so bad compared to some systems. I have absolutely no issue using the 50mm hand held either, and from what I understand the 40mm is only marginally heavier.

Good point thanks for commenting.

45-50 yrs ago I walked around with a gaggle of cameras and lenses. As time went by, I carried less and less. The Hasselblad system is so ingenious that it can be used as hand held compact kit as well as on a tripod for many different kinds of photography. In many ways a Hasselblad is the only real competition to a 35mm SLR in terms of versatility, with the advantage of a larger negative.

This is exactly why I picked it. I can carry different film ready to go, lenses change out, and there are a ton of accessories.

I've had a 500c/m for about 15 years, and haven't used it nearly enough. I've recently started using it much more often, and am happy to say that the love is back. What a great system!

I recently bought a copy of the Hasselblad Manual, 3rd Edition, which has all the information relevant to a 500c/m system at the right price point. Ideally, you should try to get a copy of the Revised Reprint 1989 that has an extra chapter covering new camera bodies, lenses, and accessories introduced between 1986 and 1989. TIP: Whatever edition of the book you purchase, make sure it has all of the color pages intact. The first copy I bought had all of the fashion/glamour photos surgically removed via an X-ACTO (or similar) knife, so I had to return it. Even if you don't typically do this type of photography, you paid for a complete book.

As for lenses and accessories:

I really recommend the 42170 Acute-Matte focusing screen with grid and split-image microprism. I shoot a lot of urban-scapes, and find the grid invaluable for keeping everything aligned when hand holding the camera. The only downside is this particular focusing screen currently sells for a lot more than I paid 10 years ago.

I think having two A12 backs is sufficient. I used to have three, but found that I really didn't need to carry three backs around. Loading a roll of film isn't a major time issue unless you're shooting a wedding.

As for wide-angle lenses, I can't say enough good things about the 50mm Distagon f/4 CF FLE. I use this lens much more often than my 80mm Planar CF. I absolutely love it. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the 80mm; the 50mm just suits my style better. Also, I now only use CF lenses. For me, the CF useability is preferable to the earlier C lenses. I don't find that the later CFi or CFE lenses offer any features that I need. I guess I'm a CF die-hard.

That specific one is on my list. They are going for a lot but it looks like it would help out tremendously with landscape and building photos. I do disagree with you about the C vs CF lenses just on a price point thing. I just might pick up (see next post) the 60mm C and start shooting. Later one add 60/100/180 cfs,

You did bring up a good point. I think we kind of get bogged down in the best lenses when we should ask what fits my style. I think the only way to know is to start.

Agreed, an Acute Matte D screen is a must IMO. They're so much brighter than a normal screen. I have the one with the etched grid and rangefinder patch, which makes focusing a breeze. They're very expensive, but worth every penny.



The CFi/CFE lenses do have an appreciably nicer focusing feel (probably the best of any lenses I've used). The shutters were also upgraded to have better longevity.

I think you are the fifth person to say that. Already on the list but I will underline it in red sharpie.

you can always crop in the darkroom to your liking.

Look at Mr. Fancy Pants with his own darkroom! You speak the truth though, I just need to get mine up and running at my shop once I clear out the room and hook up some water lines. I've been waiting for this awhile.
 
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Hubigpielover

Hubigpielover

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Hubigpielover

Hubigpielover

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You bet we do! It's just what is needed to bring Sydney to an absolute standstill, and the crowds love it.
Many of the floats had been under construction for more than 8 months, and are works of art in their own right. They follow a specific theme each year.
I was in there... painted in lurid gold with that itsy-bitsy-teeny-weeny-chilli-red Speedo-kini. We finished off the night with a gin party. Perhaps too much gin...:sideways:

Sounds like I need to take a trip. Glad you had fun?
 
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Sounds like I need to take a trip. Glad you had fun?

Well, you've got close to 12 months to get organised for the next one!
Meanwhile, out in Central Australia, the town of Alice Springs staged a nod to the 25th anniversary (of filming) of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.
BTW, unlike cloistered, pro-digital Sydney, there are a few MF and LF analogue photographers in Alice Springs.
 

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The 60mm lens is too close to the 80mm lens so I recommend the 50mm and 80mm or 50mm and 100mm lenses. I recommend:
38mm [SWC]. 50mm, 80mm, 150mm [or 180mm], 250mm or
38mm [SWC]. 50mm, 100mm, 150mm [or 180mm], 250mm
I own the 30mm [Fisheye]; 38mm [SWC]. 50mm, 80mm, 100mm,150mm, 250mm, 500mm and 3XE. I do not have the 120mm or 135mm because I would not use them enough for close up work. Instead I use fixed length extension tubes.

I have a 503 CX and 903, not a 500 C/M.


That's quite a setup you have. One of my friends said when he had a 500 that he used 60/100/180. What are you thoughts on that setup?

Actually I did my taxes a couple of weeks ago and my accountant told me that I am not spending enough money on camera equipment.

Note to self: Call KEH to buy more lenses.

60mm, 100mm, 180mm?
Unless you do portraits enough to use the 180mm and want to have three lenses then I would recommend 60mm, 100mm, 250mm.
 

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Unless you do portraits enough to use the 180mm and want to have three lenses then I would recommend 60mm, 100mm, 250mm

I would disagree re: 180 vs 250. The 180mm is a considerably better lens optically than the 250mm, and is faster when needed. Even with a 1.4x teleconverter it still outperforms the 250mm, so one could carry the 1.4x converter and have a 180mm and a 250mm in one.
 
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Hubigpielover

Hubigpielover

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Actually I did my taxes a couple of weeks ago and my accountant told me that I am not spending enough money on camera equipment.

Note to self: Call KEH to buy more lenses.

60mm, 100mm, 180mm?
Unless you do portraits enough to use the 180mm and want to have three lenses then I would recommend 60mm, 100mm, 250mm.


That's a nice accountant because mine tells me to quit being a couyon and stop spending money. I am assuming that you use your set up for work so you can clam it.

Anyways, thanks for the tips.
 
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Hubigpielover

Hubigpielover

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I would disagree re: 180 vs 250. The 180mm is a considerably better lens optically than the 250mm, and is faster when needed. Even with a 1.4x teleconverter it still outperforms the 250mm, so one could carry the 1.4x converter and have a 180mm and a 250mm in one.

Thanks for the advice
 

Sirius Glass

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That's a nice accountant because mine tells me to quit being a couyon and stop spending money. I am assuming that you use your set up for work so you can clam it.

Anyways, thanks for the tips.

Thank you for a new word for my vocabulary.
 

Sirius Glass

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I would disagree re: 180 vs 250. The 180mm is a considerably better lens optically than the 250mm, and is faster when needed. Even with a 1.4x teleconverter it still outperforms the 250mm, so one could carry the 1.4x converter and have a 180mm and a 250mm in one.


I prefer the focal length of the 250mm and in a pinch the 2XE gives me a 500mm [it makes the 500mm equal to the 1,000mm]. I rarely do portraits so my 150mm lens rarely gets out of my house. The 180mm is supposed to be optically better than the 150mm. However any extender on a lens is optically inferior to the longer focal length. Also is used price for 250mm is less than the 180mm, and the 250mm is more commonly available.
 

GLS

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However any extender on a lens is optically inferior to the longer focal length

This is not always the case. If the teleconverter is of a high quality (not all are created equal), as is the lens it is attached to, then the optical tradeoff can be quite minimal. The Hasselblad 1.4XE is very good by all accounts. The Apo 1.4XE is even better, but that is made for the 350mm Superachromat.

Also is used price for 250mm is less than the 180mm, and the 250mm is more commonly available.

True, but the 180mm is more expensive/rarer for a good reason. Just like the 100mm Planar.
 

mgb74

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Yes! And I sometimes do, but the 6x4.5 magazine also gives you 16 exposures, 4 more than the 6x6 magazine. :smile:

But be a bit careful. There are 2 16 exposure backs. One is 645. The other is "superslide" (4.5 square I believe). Also, there is a 645 overlay for the 6x6 focus screen to aid in composition.
 

Adrian Bacon

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Any tips or tricks...must haves? I'm looking at getting either a 60mm or 80mm and the third edition of The Hasselblad Manual. Other than that, I'm gonna wing it.

PSA: remember to have color film when Mardi Gras rolls around.


Edit: 80% of the shots or going to be of buildings, landscape etc, 20% will be of people and Mardi Gras if that helps anything.

I have a 500C/M with a couple of film backs and an 80mm and 150mm lens. I'd recommend having at least 2 film backs so you can switch up which emulsion you're shooting without having to finish the roll, and starting with the 80mm lens as that's roughly a 50mm FOV in 35mm. From there, you can either decide to go with a more telephoto or wider lens depending on your needs, but the 80 is a really good place to start.
 
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Hubigpielover

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I have a 500C/M with a couple of film backs and an 80mm and 150mm lens. I'd recommend having at least 2 film backs so you can switch up which emulsion you're shooting without having to finish the roll, and starting with the 80mm lens as that's roughly a 50mm FOV in 35mm. From there, you can either decide to go with a more telephoto or wider lens depending on your needs, but the 80 is a really good place to start.
Cool thanks for the tip
 

pentaxpete

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Read this all with interest -- it took m e lover 40 years to get a Hasselblad which I did on 2002 when i had my 'Pension Lump Sum' paid I did a VIDEO on my Hasselblad 501CM with some PRINTS shown -- you c an see it here :
 
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I've used the 60mm lens as a one lens setup for travel, but thinking of adding a long lens such as a 250. Too much weight to carry walking, but fine if not schlepping too far.

For a lot of walking I use a Rolleiflex which is much lighter, but only one lens, or a Leica if I need more lenses.

Also have a Hasselblad setup for portraits with 80 and 150mm lenses, prism, and some extension tubes - I use it with strobe lighting, either portable or the studio.

When you get one, as a matter of course you should replace the dark slide foam/seals in all of your film holders.
 

Arklatexian

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Thanks for the advice
Been doing some more thinking about your "quandary". If you keep your Minolta, you already have a "normal" lens in a MF camera so why not buy the 60mm lens for the 500cm. You may not be planning to take portraits but if you do, that focal length seems to work well and if you can bear using a 500c lens, they are very reasonable. I like mine.......See, you will have the best of two worlds and there is nothing wrong with your Minolta lens as you know. Now you can concentrate on staying broke, buying other lenses and goodies for the Hasselblad.
 

Sirius Glass

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Been doing some more thinking about your "quandary". If you keep your Minolta, you already have a "normal" lens in a MF camera so why not buy the 60mm lens for the 500cm. You may not be planning to take portraits but if you do, that focal length seems to work well and if you can bear using a 500c lens, they are very reasonable. I like mine.......See, you will have the best of two worlds and there is nothing wrong with your Minolta lens as you know. Now you can concentrate on staying broke, buying other lenses and goodies for the Hasselblad.

This is like comparing apples and Rolls Royces. The negative size differences make them incomparable. One should have a normal lenses for each camera, and possible a wide angle lens.
 
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