Calling All Hasselblad 500 c/m Owners

[Hubigpielover]

Any tips or tricks...must haves? I'm looking at getting either a 60mm or 80mm and the third edition of The Hasselblad Manual. Other than that, I'm gonna wing it.

PSA: remember to have color film when Mardi Gras rolls around.


Edit: 80% of the shots or going to be of buildings, landscape etc, 20% will be of people and Mardi Gras if that helps anything.

 

[cowanw]

I think the fifth edition is preferable as it is more complete and just at the end of the film era, although I realize you are looking at a 500 c/m.

 

[Hubigpielover]

I think the fifth edition is preferable as it is more complete and just at the end of the film era, although I realize you are looking at a 500 c/m.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[John Galt]

Go with the 80mm at the start, it is the normal lens for 6x6 format. You can pick up wide angle and telephoto later. Get at least two A12 film magazines. I also keep an A16 magazine (6 x 4.5) for when square format does not work.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Here are some free Hassy manuals. Don't know if it's exactly what you need.

https://www.butkus.org/chinon/hasselblad.htm

 

[sterioma]

I have had one 501 c/m for less than a year. I have found that a camera strap helps stabilizing the body when hand holding (I just gently push the camera towards to my belly). It might not work if you don't use the waist level finder. I also have a monopod, but based on my experience they are pretty much equivalent in terms of sharpness.

Granted, I don't go very low on the shutter speed when not using a tripod.

I'll second the fifth edition of the manual as a good one to get. Have fun with it!

 

[bdial]

Here is another source for manuals and lots of other info;
http://hassebladhistorical.eu

Most people consider a 60 to be wide, it has about the same field of view as a 35-40mm lens on a 35. The 60 is one of the sharpest lenses in the lineup. I like it a lot, though most people who like wides don't consider it wide enough, and too close to the 80's field of view. YMMV.

I dislike the standard screens, my recommendation would be to find a split-image or micro-prism screen, ideally with the grid lines which are helpful when you want to make sure vertical or horizontal lines are straight in the frame.
For straps my preference is the 1 inch wide, the standard skinny leather strap gets uncomfortable, and the wider 1.5 inch gets in the way (IMHO).

 

[warden]

Any tips or tricks...must haves? I'm looking at getting either a 60mm or 80mm and the third edition of The Hasselblad Manual. Other than that, I'm gonna wing it.
PSA: remember to have color film when Mardi Gras rolls around.
Edit: 80% of the shots or going to be of buildings, landscape etc, 20% will be of people and Mardi Gras if that helps anything.

For 80% buildings I'd go for the 60mm, although both are great lenses and plenty sharp. If you're doing architecture a bubble level might be of interest. I like 'em.

 

[Arklatexian]

Any tips or tricks...must haves? I'm looking at getting either a 60mm or 80mm and the third edition of The Hasselblad Manual. Other than that, I'm gonna wing it.

PSA: remember to have color film when Mardi Gras rolls around.


Edit: 80% of the shots or going to be of buildings, landscape etc, 20% will be of people and Mardi Gras if that helps anything.

If you can, get them both, a 60mm made for the 500c camera works fine and is not expensive even to us Louisianians and is also useful for portraits. The 80mm is a good "normal" lens. Whatever you buy, remember to "exercise" the shutters every so often. It is hard to wear-out the shutter but lack of use can cause problems. i.e. take lots of pictures and/or trip the shutters with no film. I try to "exercise" mine once every month or two. Mardi Gras is over here, today being the last day, ours ended last Sunday. Regarding the Manual, good advice above. I met Wildi once when he lectured here during Holiday in Dixie. He lectured using two Hasselblad projectors. Wonderful machines, especially with pictures he had made........Regards!

 

[Vaidotas]

Common sequence of newbie hassie V owners is start with 80mm, after that, when you catch square composing, 50mm.
60mm is very valuable lens (to me) and its hard to feel it without some experience. Just suggestion, that was my way.

 

[guangong]

When my 1000F finally died, I bought a 2000FC/M. Able to afford only one Hassy lens, I selected a 60mm. (My other lenses were those I used on 1000F, but with different adapters. Questionable repair possibilities for 2000FCM and with Hassy equipment at bargain prices compared with the old days, a couple years ago bought a 500 C/M and 80mm, since I already had 60.
If only one lens, for flexibility my vote is for a 60mm.

 

[Hubigpielover]

Go with the 80mm at the start, it is the normal lens for 6x6 format. You can pick up wide angle and telephoto later. Get at least two A12 film magazines. I also keep an A16 magazine (6 x 4.5) for when square format does not work.

My only medium format experience is 6x6, why wouldn't that work? Not to familiar with the 6x4.5 so I really don't know.

 

[Hubigpielover]

Here are some free Hassy manuals. Don't know if it's exactly what you need.

https://www.butkus.org/chinon/hasselblad.htm

Thank you

 

[Hubigpielover]

I have had one 501 c/m for less than a year. I have found that a camera strap helps stabilizing the body when hand holding (I just gently push the camera towards to my belly). It might not work if you don't use the waist level finder. I also have a monopod, but based on my experience they are pretty much equivalent in terms of sharpness.

Granted, I don't go very low on the shutter speed when not using a tripod.

I'll second the fifth edition of the manual as a good one to get. Have fun with it!

Thanks, does it matter how big the belly is? I've got a lot of padding so....what lense are you using?

 

[Hubigpielover]

Here is another source for manuals and lots of other info;
http://hassebladhistorical.eu

Most people consider a 60 to be wide, it has about the same field of view as a 35-40mm lens on a 35. The 60 is one of the sharpest lenses in the lineup. I like it a lot, though most people who like wides don't consider it wide enough, and too close to the 80's field of view. YMMV.

I dislike the standard screens, my recommendation would be to find a split-image or micro-prism screen, ideally with the grid lines which are helpful when you want to make sure vertical or horizontal lines are straight in the frame.
For straps my preference is the 1 inch wide, the standard skinny leather strap gets uncomfortable, and the wider 1.5 inch gets in the way (IMHO).

Great advice, the link didn't work for me but I appreciate it.

My 35mm have the 50mm lenses and I know that is the closest to the human eye but from the picture I have looked at, I feel the 60mm would fit my shooting style. It is kind of nerve racking because I can only purchase one lenses right now.

What brand of strap did you buy and would you recommend it?

 

[Hubigpielover]

For 80% buildings I'd go for the 60mm, although both are great lenses and plenty sharp. If you're doing architecture a bubble level might be of interest. I like 'em.

Thanks!

 

[Hubigpielover]

Common sequence of newbie hassie V owners is start with 80mm, after that, when you catch square composing, 50mm.
60mm is very valuable lens (to me) and its hard to feel it without some experience. Just suggestion, that was my way.

So I've been shooting my Minolta Autocord for about a year and a half. Love the square format. Do you think I can transition to a 60mm?

 

[Hubigpielover]

When my 1000F finally died, I bought a 2000FC/M. Able to afford only one Hassy lens, I selected a 60mm. (My other lenses were those I used on 1000F, but with different adapters. Questionable repair possibilities for 2000FCM and with Hassy equipment at bargain prices compared with the old days, a couple years ago bought a 500 C/M and 80mm, since I already had 60.
If only one lens, for flexibility my vote is for a 60mm.

The 60mm seems to be a great lenses. I know the 80mm is standard but most of the people like 60.

Thanks.

 

[Hubigpielover]

I'm surprised Sirius hasn't chimed in yet.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Any tips or tricks...must haves? I'm looking at getting either a 60mm or 80mm and the third edition of The Hasselblad Manual. Other than that, I'm gonna wing it.

PSA: remember to have color film when Mardi Gras rolls around.


Edit: 80% of the shots or going to be of buildings, landscape etc, 20% will be of people and Mardi Gras if that helps anything.

the 80mm f/2.8 Planar is an excellent choice for this camera; think of a 50mm and a 150mm lens next.

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

I'd also recommend starting with the 80mm lens and then branch out from there (I personally went to a 40mm). I'd also endorse the fifth edition of Wildi's manual. Thirdly I'd highly recommend using an Op Tech strap which makes the camera considerably easier to carry.

 

[mshchem]

Thanks, does it matter how big the belly is? I've got a lot of padding so....what lense are you using?

I have padding as well. Two methods I've found useful. Long strap, just mush it in. Short strap useful as a shelf. I have a 501cm, it has the Acute-Matte screen. These screens go for several hundred bucks, crazy but they are awesome.

Nothing wrong with the screen you've got. Get a 50mm you can buy the latest with the floating element for about 20% of when new price in mint condition.

 

[mshchem]

When I was a kid, I always thought the CM stood for COMMAND MODULE

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

Down here in Australia we had the Mardi Gras in Sydney last week. It was a riot. I wouldn't (and didn't!) take a camera there for fear it would be smeared with lipstick, glitter, boa feathers and baubels! A smartphone is just fine, and that's what thousands and thousands were using. Actually, no time for any sort of photography -- too busy having a bloody good time in gold and glitter!!

 

[laser]

Tip: You can hand-hold slower speeds if you push the side-release to move the mirror out of the way and then the shutter release a half a second later. Hold the camera in such a way that you don't have to rearrange your hands. The mirror action can cause camera movement. This can be demonstrated by making an exposure series at 1/4 to 1/30 second just using the shutter release . Use a light weight tripod and use the same EV at different times. Then repeat pushing the side mirror release followed by the shutter release. Images will show how separating the mirror action and shutter action reduces movement at these speeds. At longer and shorter times there is little difference.

2nd tip: If you aren't going to use the camera for day/weeks don't advance the film mid-roll after the last exposure. This removes the tension from the shutter spring and keeps the film flat for the next exposure. Holding the film at a sharp angle can cause a "bump" in the film caused by the roller.

3rd tip: for extended non-use remove the dark slide.This keeps the light lock material from being compressed that reduces its light lock efficacy.

4th tip: If you have multiple magazines do not interchange the inserts. Each insert and shell have matched serial numbers and are made to be used together.

Great camera!