LOL, I actually have quite a flat belly at the moment due to training and eating judiciously. I mostly use my 80mm when out and about, but also have a 150mm and now in the market for a 50mm to complete the "holy trinity".
Thanks, does it matter how big the belly is? I've got a lot of padding so....what lense are you using?
Thirdly I'd highly recommend using an Op Tech strap which makes the camera considerably easier to carry.
Great advice, the link didn't work for me but I appreciate it.
My 35mm have the 50mm lenses and I know that is the closest to the human eye but from the picture I have looked at, I feel the 60mm would fit my shooting style. It is kind of nerve racking because I can only purchase one lenses right now.
What brand of strap did you buy and would you recommend it?
It's just another format you can shoot with the Hasselblad V series, same 120 roll film but 16 images to a roll in a rectangular format . . . 6x4.5. Like I said . . . some compositions work better in a rectangular vs square format. I like having the choice . . YMMVMy only medium format experience is 6x6, why wouldn't that work? Not to familiar with the 6x4.5 so I really don't know.
I cannot agree more with this ^^^^^the 80mm f/2.8 Planar is an excellent choice for this camera; think of a 50mm and a 150mm lens next.
So I've been shooting my Minolta Autocord for about a year and a half. Love the square format. Do you think I can transition to a 60mm?
After I got the swc, I concluded that the 50mm was rather useless, so I sold it and never regretted it. But I like wide angle and I like the convenience of having two camera’s instead of having to change lenses.The 60mm is a marvelous and often overlooked lens. I advise many folks to consider the 100mm Planar and the 60mm Distagon. The 100mm is one of the standout Hasselblad choices, and the 60 is a nice all rounder. I even bought the Rollei version when I moved onto the Hy6.
Hasselblad lenses shorter than 60mm are huge hunks of glass. The beauty of the Hasselblad design is compactness and not being too heavy for using hand held. The 150mm, like the 80mm, is easy to hand hold. The 60mm is a nice compromise and makes a compact, easy to carry package. Lenses shorter than 60mm are heavy.
only if the dark slide has Neil's name engraved to it.When I was a kid, I always thought the CM stood for COMMAND MODULE
I really recommend the 42170 Acute-Matte focusing screen with grid and split-image microprism. I shoot a lot of urban-scapes, and find the grid invaluable for keeping everything aligned when hand holding the camera. The only downside is this particular focusing screen currently sells for a lot more than I paid 10 years ago.
I don't find that the later CFi or CFE lenses offer any features that I need. I guess I'm a CF die-hard.
you can always crop in the darkroom to your liking.Go with the 80mm at the start, it is the normal lens for 6x6 format. You can pick up wide angle and telephoto later. Get at least two A12 film magazines. I also keep an A16 magazine (6 x 4.5) for when square format does not work.
I agree, even I can see the image snap, unbelievably sharp, when you dial in the floating element.As for wide-angle lenses, I can't say enough good things about the 50mm Distagon f/4 CF FLE.
the 80mm f/2.8 Planar is an excellent choice for this camera; think of a 50mm and a 150mm lens next.
I'd also recommend starting with the 80mm lens and then branch out from there (I personally went to a 40mm). I'd also endorse the fifth edition of Wildi's manual. Thirdly I'd highly recommend using an Op Tech strap which makes the camera considerably easier to carry.
I have padding as well. Two methods I've found useful. Long strap, just mush it in. Short strap useful as a shelf. I have a 501cm, it has the Acute-Matte screen. These screens go for several hundred bucks, crazy but they are awesome.
Nothing wrong with the screen you've got. Get a 50mm you can buy the latest with the floating element for about 20% of when new price in mint condition.
When I was a kid, I always thought the CM stood for COMMAND MODULE
Down here in Australia we had the Mardi Gras in Sydney last week. It was a riot. I wouldn't (and didn't!) take a camera there for fear it would be smeared with lipstick, glitter, boa feathers and baubels! A smartphone is just fine, and that's what thousands and thousands were using. Actually, no time for any sort of photography -- too busy having a bloody good time in gold and glitter!!
Tip: You can hand-hold slower speeds if you push the side-release to move the mirror out of the way and then the shutter release a half a second later. Hold the camera in such a way that you don't have to rearrange your hands. The mirror action can cause camera movement. This can be demonstrated by making an exposure series at 1/4 to 1/30 second just using the shutter release . Use a light weight tripod and use the same EV at different times. Then repeat pushing the side mirror release followed by the shutter release. Images will show how separating the mirror action and shutter action reduces movement at these speeds. At longer and shorter times there is little difference.
2nd tip: If you aren't going to use the camera for day/weeks don't advance the film mid-roll after the last exposure. This removes the tension from the shutter spring and keeps the film flat for the next exposure. Holding the film at a sharp angle can cause a "bump" in the film caused by the roller.
3rd tip: for extended non-use remove the dark slide.This keeps the light lock material from being compressed that reduces its light lock efficacy.
4th tip: If you have multiple magazines do not interchange the inserts. Each insert and shell have matched serial numbers and are made to be used together.
Great camera!
Today I learned Sydney has Mardi Gras. Do y'all have a parade and floats? I don't mind bringing my camera out with me to stuff like that. I usually don't drink that much anymore because now that I am older than 40 hangovers last for a year. Mardi Gras is a great time and I usually always enjoy it.
you can always crop in the darkroom to your liking.
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