Calculating long-daylight exposures?

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menglert

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I'm interested in doing some long daylight exposures of the snow over the holidays. I'll stop down some, also add a ND800 (8-stop ND filter) and I bought a Sekonic L-208 to get me started in LF photography, but perhaps it wasn't the best choice. Now I realize it only gives a max exposure time of about 3min. So, what are your suggestions on calculating long exposures?

Regards,
Martin
 

Donald Miller

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I think that the first thing that needs to be determined is what you are hoping to accomplish through your long exposures. Why long exposures? Are you hoping to exclude a moving object from the scene?
 

Allen Friday

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1. Calculate the proper exposure for the film you are using at the f-stop you plan to shoot with out regard to filters. Use your standard metering method and pretend that you are going to make a standard exposure. e.g. 1 second @ f64.

2. Add 8 stops to the above exposure. You will leave the f-stop the same, so just double the time 8 times. 1 doubles to 2, 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, 128, 256 seconds. You can count on your fingers starting with the move from 1 second to 2 seconds, until you reach 8 increases.

3. Make adjustment for reciprocity. You should be able to find a chart for your film, or do testing to determine the reciprocity change for the film. Most of the time, the change will be given in stops based on the lenght of time calculated above. So, for a 256 second exposure, the reciprocity factor, for example, may be two stops. So you would add two stops, by doubling your last amount, twice. 256 is basically 4 minutes, so double 4 minutes twice. 4 doubles to 8, 16. Your basic exposure would be 16 minutes. I would probably go 17 minutes to compensate for rounding down from 256 seconds to 4 minutes. Make your exposure.

4. Calculate development of your film. As the reciprocity factor goes up, so does the contrast of the film. To compensate, you will need to reduce development. I keep a chart of development reduction based on increased exposure. A good place to start for your film would be at n-1 or n-1/2. Adjust up or down for later negs as needed.

Hope that helps,

Allen
 
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menglert

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Thanks for the advice, I think I get the general idea now. I only need to check up the failure on my films (Foma 200, Forte 400, EFKE 25).

To answer the other question about why... When it starts snowing I had a few ideas about using long exposures to get an effect off of the drifting snow and such, and possibly falling snow. I'll have to test it and see how it goes.

Thanks for the help.

Regards,
Martin
 

stompyq

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At 3 minutes you need to be accounting for reciprocity failure.


Really? I thought RF only comes in to play after 10min with Velvia 100 (i know it does come in to play much sooner with velvia 50)
 

DougGrosjean

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I'd always read that RF varies with the film, but can rar its head during extremely short or extremely long exposures. Just depends on what you're shooting.
 
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