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Calculate DOF Table for every Lens and Format

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DraganB

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Do you like these DOF Tables on old Film Cameras, here is a website to compute them:

https://dof.tiiny.site/

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I can't say I have ever used a DOF table, even though I have quite of few of them in my vintage equipment literature collection.

I'm curious in what settings people are using these.

I do, however, use the focus equation of Hansma all the time.
 
I use them all the time to figure out what f-stop I need to get the foreground and background in focus. I determine what DOF I would like (I don't always get it) -- let's say 10' to 50'. Then I rotate the DOF Master dial for that FL to see what f-stop, if I'm lucky, will cover it. If I'm very lucky, I get a choice.
 
Has anyone seen manufacturer published dof tables for schneider, angulon and super ang.?
Didn't see any thing at pacific rim
 
I've never found DOF tables or calculators terribly useful except for rough approximations.

the same lens with the same f-stop will have a different DOF with different films, sensors, or print magnifications etc - so any table would have to include these factors to make them truly reflect the real world.
 
I've tried Chrome, Firefox, and Safari. That's okay, though. Not a biggie.
Andrew,

There's a security setting in Firefox (and, presumably the other browsers) that you can modify to allow access to the site in question. I've done it for Firefox, but can't point you to the exact procedure (too long ago). However, its in the usual settings menu somewhere, if that helps. Maybe someone with more precise knowledge can chime in?


As for the DoF tables: I never use them, preferring the focus-spread method of finding the optimum aperture, which is described here: https://www.largeformatphotography.info/fstop.html

You can just skim the text and use the parameters Q.T. provides, or you can get into the nitty-gritty and figure out your own CoC and Airy Disk sizes and make your own. This method is most suitable for LF work, but for that, it works for every focal length and format. You just have to choose near and far focus points and be able to measure the focus spread (mm scales on the camera bed are helpful :smile: ). Then it's just look up the optimum f-stop on the table sticker that's affixed to your camera body. EZPZ.

Best,

Doremus
 
I addressed this in post #30 of the 2021 thread "Equivalent Depth of Field."

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/equivalent-depth-of-field.182718/page-2

I obtain the same results as the online version of DOF Master. I’ve programed this into my HP48GX calculator. Using the program is simple. It can be written to work with any programable calculator. A calculator is reasonably small and light. It takes little space in a camera bag making it easy to use in the field.

To use it, you need only know or estimate

a = the near limit of DOF (measured forward from the first nodal point of the lens).

b = the far limit of DOF (first nodal point to the farthest limit)

c = the circle of confusion diameter for the format in use

f = focal length. All values must be expressed in millimeters.

Enter the values a, b, c, and f and press the execution key to see the ideal subject distance s and the required aperture value N.
 
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For me, the whole problem with using programs or calculators to tell you how far into a scene to focus and which f-stop to use to get from x-distance in front of the camera to infinity in focus is that I'm pretty lousy at estimating distances. Focus 21 feet into the scene? Where the heck is that? I'll miss by a significant amount every time. Same with estimating how close something is to the camera. If it's more than 10 feet away, I'm going to estimate badly.

With smaller cameras, I always just used the DoF preview lever or found a way to view the scene at the taking aperture to help me decide on the f-stop. With view cameras (all I use, nowadays), the near-far focus method eliminates the need to estimate any distances whatsoever and finds me an optimum aperture based simply on the focus spread between the two extremes I want to be in sharp focus. I find this method ideal for view camera work.

Best,

Doremus
 
I use this calculator:

But only when I’m shopping for lenses. It helps me visualize the field of view and depth of field that I can achieve with a lens that I don’t have in hand.

For actual shooting I just use my eyes. I’ll look at the ground glass and stop down the lens to see what will actually be acceptably in focus. Doing this could take a little practice until you learn what you consider acceptably in focus for your purposes.

Especially if you’re using any tilt and/or swing, there’s really no more expedient way to figure out what your image is going to look like.
 
I normally carry one of those old, flash-shoe, rangefinders -- designed for viewfinder cameras that have focusing lenses. They are very small, accurate, light-weight, adjustable, and very inexpensive. I think mine is a Universal brand. When I need a certain DOF, I can quickly determine the near & far distances of the area I want in focus. Then I turn the dial on the DOF Master for the lens in use, and it tells me what f-stop to use to get those two distances in focus.
 
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