C41 Tetenal kit - yellow streaks

[FujiLove]

Anything between 1 and 3 % sounds about right. Make sure you pour acid into water, not the other way round, when you mix your stop bath! And good luck with your next process run!

And I forgot to ask: can this stop be re-used, or is it a one-shot and throw?

 

[Rudeofus]

And I forgot to ask: can this stop be re-used, or is it a one-shot and throw?

A lawyer would say: it depends.

An engineer would tell you: The main criterion is pH. It has to be low enough to stop action, and every time you use your stop bath, you bring in some alkaline color developer. If you are unable to measure pH, I'd say use 1% Acetic Acid single shot.

 

[FujiLove]

One shot it is. I'm trying to rule out issues with development here, so I guess introducing another variable (re-used stop) is asking for trouble.

 

[MattKing]

And I forgot to ask: can this stop be re-used, or is it a one-shot and throw?

This question is the reason that people buy "indicator" stop bath .

You are probably wise if you choose to use it 1% one-shot.

 

[FujiLove]

This question is the reason that people buy "indicator" stop bath .

You are probably wise if you choose to use it 1% one-shot.

Using it as one-shot @ 1% = 4ml per film. This should give me 250 films from the bottle of acetic acid which cost £15.50 including postage = 6.2p per film. Despite my natural instinct not to waste anything, I can live with that

 

[FujiLove]

A 'thank you' to all the people who made suggestions to help fix my C41 issues. I processed another film on Sunday and they came out great.

The things I did differently:

1. Used the correct center column for the tank this time! It sounds like a stupid error, but having two tanks almost the same size stored in the same box is a recipe for errors...you have been warned!

2. I used the Tetenal C41 kit, but added a 2% acetic acid stop between the colour dev and blix stages. I used a couple of washes (water at 38C) after the stop, about a minute each with constant agitation.

3. I shook the blix vigorously for about 30-40 seconds just before I used it.

4. I increased the blix time by 50% as recommended on here, which made a total of 9 minutes.

5. Immersed the film in the stabilizer in the open tank and gently agitated it manually, rather than running it on the Jobo and creating a foam party!

The end result is better shadow detail, richer colours, no colour casts or streaks and improved contrast.

Really enjoying my new home dev hobby

 

[Jeff L]

Glad to hear it all worked out.
I added a stop bath with C41 to eliminate streaks and uneven development. I have much more consistent results now.
I've learned a lot here at APUG.
Thanks to all.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Glad to hear it all worked out.
I added a stop bath with C41 to eliminate streaks and uneven development. I have much more consistent results now.
I've learned a lot here at APUG.
Thanks to all.

This shows that you get your money's worth on APUG.

 

[nbagno]

I also added a stop after development as suggested here on APUG. No more weird issues.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

 

[pbromaghin]

Wow, just like a Disney movie!