C41 at home without a JOBO

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Donald Qualls

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Yes, you are right . More and more casings are just clipped together and unlikely to be got open again wiithout spoiling the casinfg or even breaking the clips-

(I am from the slit-screw generation...)

Or solvent- or sonic-welded.

I recently spent most of an hour disassembling an early oughties Fuji disposable camera, in order to process the 35mm film inside myself rather than overpay to send it Far Away for processing by a lab that could open the thing (and would likely add a surcharge, since it isn't the same a current units). Clipped together, secured with the branding/instruction label, and drives the cassette spool with a shallow spline in a proprietary spool rather than a fork to engage a standard one; intentionally made as difficult as possible for someone capable of home processing the film to reload and reuse (no provision for pre-winding the film, even in the dark, as far as I could see, and so many clips that have to go in just so, it would be impossible to close in the dark without the factory's machines). Pretty sure it would have been cheaper to build like a Kodak that actually can be reloaded, with a little care, a standard cassette, and a screwdriver to prewind the film. The Ilford disposables are much like the Fuji in this respect -- built to prevent reuse.

I seriously considered buying a Lomography Simple Use (which uses a rewind type crank to prewind freshly loaded film), just to spite the disposables, but then I thought again -- I would seldom use a camera like this, already own two or three reusable ones in the same "simple camera" category (just need to locate them), and really don't need any more cameras without a specific use case for owning them (like my RB67, or the Instax Mini 9 I just got, or the CCB 6x6 pinhole I bought a couple months ago).
 

mklw1954

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Dec 2, 2009
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To take care of the different tank/reels/film temperature, I first bring the tank (with the reels and film, but no water or chemicals) to the developer temperature in a small insulated cooler water bath. I use a digital thermometer with a wire probe (Extech TM20), calibrated to a Paterson color thermometer, to determine when the temperature has been reached. When the cooler water temp stays constant at the developer temp, after adding small amounts of hot or cool water to get there, the tank is at the right temp. The chemical temps will then not change when added to the pre-heated tank and you don't have to guess at compensation. Place the tank back in the water bath between agitations and add small amounts of hot or cool water to maintain the bath temp during development. A good inexpensive solution for color and b&w temperature control.
 
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