C41 and E6 Chemistry Plan... Thoughts?

[nevintagefilms]

For Fuji E6 you should be able to substitute the first developer and color developer from the Arista kit for:

First Developer:

https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/fuji-e-6-1st-developer-replenisher-tm-4x10l-600005444/_/searchString/e6


Color/Reversal Developer:

https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/fuji-e-6-color-developer-replacement-tm-2x10l-600005460/_/searchString/e6


Any thoughts?

Ah... it looks like there is an extra step with Fuji between first developer and color developer... the reversal bath:

https://www.uniquephoto.com/product...isher-100gallon-600005441/_/searchString/pro6

The problem is I don't see anywhere to get less than 100 gallons. LOL

 

[MattKing]

Squeegee or sponge = scratches. Maybe not every time, but they will happen.
Air drying, in a reasonably humid (but not too humid) environment is the safest and best alternative, but it does take longer.
The time will vary with conditions, but unless you have filtered and slightly heated moving air, you should measure it in hours rather than minutes.
I prefer letting film dry overnight.
I would use the modern Final Rinse for modern films, but I understand your approach.

 

[Photo Engineer]

AFAIK, there is no stop after the E6 FD. Use a wash.

PE

 

[afriman]

Ah... it looks like there is an extra step with Fuji between first developer and color developer... the reversal bath:

https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/fuji-pro6-reversal-bath-and-replenisher-100gallon-600005441/_/searchString/pro6

The problem is I don't see anywhere to get less than 100 gallons. LOL

That's what I tried to tell you in my previous post! And that's why you can't just interchange Arista and Fuji color developer.

 

[afriman]

Squeegee or sponge = scratches. Maybe not every time, but they will happen.
Air drying, in a reasonably humid (but not too humid) environment is the safest and best alternative, but it does take longer.
The time will vary with conditions, but unless you have filtered and slightly heated moving air, you should measure it in hours rather than minutes.
I prefer letting film dry overnight.
I would use the modern Final Rinse for modern films, but I understand your approach.

+1
I hang processed film in the shower to dry, usually overnight.

 

[Photo Engineer]

You can use light re-exposure instead of the Fuji reversal bath.

PE

 

[afriman]

IMHO, you are making things unnecessarily complicated. I suggest that you buy a 2.5 l Tetenal E6 kit. Although, it's a 3-bath kit, it has proven itself over many years to produce excellent results. Some Apug members even prefer the results to those of the Fuji chemicals, and it is very convenient to use. Why not do your own experiment: process a roll of film with the Tetenal kit. Then process a second one, using C41 bleach and fix instead of the blix. Compare the results. If you are convinced that the second roll turned out better, you can continue using the C41 bleach and fix, just as you were planning to do with the Arista kit.

I cannot comment on the quality of the Arista kit, as I don't have any experience with it. I only know that most Apuggers (including myself) who have used the Tetenal kit are 100% satisfied - and we're a very critical bunch! I know PE and others maintain that a 3-step process cannot work as well as the "full" E6 process. But PE himself has said numerous times that you must do whatever works for you.

(BTW PE, I'm very glad that your old (or rather, young) picture is back!)