A friend of mine picked one up about a week ago,(it was the one I was looking at before deciding to go 645 instead of 6x6). He has run a roll through and developed to test it out. Nice, clear, sharp overall but some where he was closer focusing are way off. I tried to explain why to him, and he gets it, but asked a question I cannot find an answer for: at what distance do things like the paramender become a requirement?
C330 and Parallax
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Depends on the subject and lens but typically around 1 meter with a standard 80mm lens. Please note that a paramender does nothing with focusing, it only compensates the parallax caused by the distance between the viewing and the taking lens. If he has a focusing problem it is caused by something else.
Doesn't the C330 have the "paralax indicator dial" that shows in the viewfinder? On the older C2 and C22, there was a scale on the bellows rail corresponding to a line across the top of the viewfinder.
Yes it's on the left side of the focusing screen and it also gives exposure bellows extention compensation factors.
MattKing
Moderator
The parallax indicator in the C330 viewfinder:
1) shows where the top of the image on the film will fall;
2) also shows how much bellows extension exposure compensation you will need for closeup shots; and
3) only works properly if you set the correct focal length on the dial at the side of the camera.
1) shows where the top of the image on the film will fall;
2) also shows how much bellows extension exposure compensation you will need for closeup shots; and
3) only works properly if you set the correct focal length on the dial at the side of the camera.
The parallax indicator (the red flag) stops when you focus at about 9-11", so anything less then 1 foot is where I wouldn't think of try to properly frame without the paramender, and probably even further than that (about 2 feet).
At closer distances using the indicator, you're (always) focusing and recomposing, so you want to keep that in mind, as it will most likely affect your focusing.
At closer distances using the indicator, you're (always) focusing and recomposing, so you want to keep that in mind, as it will most likely affect your focusing.
Yes
MattKing
Moderator
The paramender isn't needed except for close up work. Anything under a metre generally. Essentially, the taking lens takes a picture of an area that is 50mm (2 inches) lower than what you see. At 20 feet, two inches up or down is negligible.
But the procedure is correct.
The viewfinder marker in the C330/f/s shows (if the lens is correctly set on the camera body) where the top of the frame is going to be. With the cameras without the moving marker you have to guestimate based on the amount of exposure compensation.
It is tempting to tip the camera when relying on the viewfinder marker, to get the framing right. The trouble with this is that it alters the lens to subject distance. If you are careful you can compensate and move the camera parallel to the plane of the back. But the Paramender does a better jog. Think of the viewfinder marker as a warning about cut-off at the top of the frame.
If you are getting close enough to really worry about parallax, then you are getting into bellows factor territory as well. That's the other thing the moving indicator provides.
It is tempting to tip the camera when relying on the viewfinder marker, to get the framing right. The trouble with this is that it alters the lens to subject distance. If you are careful you can compensate and move the camera parallel to the plane of the back. But the Paramender does a better jog. Think of the viewfinder marker as a warning about cut-off at the top of the frame.
If you are getting close enough to really worry about parallax, then you are getting into bellows factor territory as well. That's the other thing the moving indicator provides.
Thanks for all the input. I will take a look at his set up after work today. I'm pretty sure that his lens is set correctly but what he was trying to frame, I'm not too sure. I will have him read this thread to learn how to utilize the red indicator in the finder.
MattKing
Moderator
If the indicator in the finder is red, that tells you that the lens lock needs to be set to "on".
The parallax indicator is black.
The parallax indicator is black.
"There is a parallax dimension beyond that which is known to man. It is a dimension as vast as space and as timeless as infinity. It is the middle ground between light and shadow, between science and superstition, and it lies between the pit of man's fears and the summit of his knowledge. This is the dimension of imagination. It is an area which we photographers call the Twilight Zone." 
Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
That was my first medium format camera. The paramender took care of parallax every time, on a tripod or hand held.
Ha, I will have to check it out. He said it was red. I will take a closer look at it and the negatives when I see it tonight. I have never owned a TLR and neither has he. I am familiar with parallax as my primary MF until I get my 645 1000 assembled is a zone focus Zeiss. It is not separated by all that much distance but it caught me once.
@Andrew O'Neill, how did you use the paramender handheld?
@Andrew O'Neill, how did you use the paramender handheld?
if the red indicator is in the field of view, it means the lens change baffle is up, and the film cannot be exposed. The parallax indicator moves with the focus - the lock indicator just flips in or out.
See the fifth image down at http://grahamp.dotinthelandscape.org/c330.html both indicators are not 'in play' in the picture.
See the fifth image down at http://grahamp.dotinthelandscape.org/c330.html both indicators are not 'in play' in the picture.
Whoops, my bad. You are correct, it is black.
How do you use the paramender handheld?
Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
Sorry typing quickly on phone. Paramender on tripod, not hand. Need paramender for brain.
That makes more sense. I was envisioning some sort of neck strap and string arrangement.
Good point, Ben.
I bought a Paramender for my C220F. My Ries doesn't have a center column.
Yes, "raising the camera" with a tripod's centre column only works when you are taking an image while the camera is perfectly level to the tripod. As long as the camera is aligned to the centre column then there would be no reframing in the taking lens, as the point is to reposition the taking lens to where the viewing lens was. However if the camera body isn't aligned, then you can't use the centre column to reposition the taking lens into the viewing lens's former position.
Personally I just 'frame a little loose' and mask out the edge I want out in post to be sure I have the image I actually want.
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