c-41 stabilazer question

[Rhodes]

I did my first color development today, with rollei digibase kit, my jobo cpe thank, etc. I finished developing about 20:15, and now when I went to see if the film was dry to scan. It appered dried, but it's full of some kind of residue, like foam. I though of the foam of the stabilizer. Is it normal?

 

[Photo Engineer]

This foam can take place if you over agitate and then do not gently wipe down the foam. You should be able to re-wet in stabilizer and then hang to re-dry with a gentle wipe down with a sponge or your fingers wetted with stabilizer.

PE

 

[Rhodes]

Yes, I did not over agitate, but the cpe did! Did not know about this. THank you for the advice. By the way, when you say figers wetted, is it with gloves? Or there is no immediate danger in putting one fingers in the stabilizer.

 

[Photo Engineer]

I do not do the stabilization step on the Jobo. I use gentle hand agitation..

You should wear rubber or vinyl gloves if you get your hands in photographic solutions.

PE

 

[vedmak]

the stabilizer is just like photoflow, do not use it in tanks, especially with plastic reels, just put your film in a stainless tank with the stabilizer flip it a couple of times and shake it a bit when hang to dry.

 

[Photo Engineer]

I use plastic tanks and reels. It is not the material, but the method by which you use it and the method of cleanup!

PE

 

[Rhodes]

Thank you!

 

[hrst]

Cleaning up the plastic reels after each use takes about 15 seconds. Split the reels apart and quickly swirl with a dish brush in warm water. When done every time, this is enough to prevent final rinse agents from accumulating. If you still find it is insufficient, a more thorough cleaning once a year or so may help.

So, this is not a very good reason to turn to stainless steel reels. It's more a matter of taste if anything.

 

[Rhodes]

Ideed. Normally I use a old tooth brush and "blue soap" from times to times, more if I see the white plastic reels becaming dark with the residues of the cheamicals.

 

[vedmak]

when using my jobo, I hate to clean up not just the tanks, but the lift as well, I figured once the development and fixing is over, stabilizer part is easily done in the stainless tank, just my 2 cents.

 

[Rhodes]

I am still using magnet, did not had the time (will) to mount the lift on the processor. By the way, were is or by what level I should fill the cpe processor? The tank as to be in contact with the water is not?

 

[Photo Engineer]

You must have enough fluid in the reservoir to keep the rotating drum partly submerged. Use of the system without the lift (using only a magnet) is a real pain!

PE

 

[Rhodes]

Well, it wasn't that bad. Regarding the first post, the data sheet of the chemicals in the trouble shooting table, has a line with what I had, "whitely blurs on the dry film - calcium carbonate blurs, water was too hard - use distilled / demineralized water for stabilizer bath. Indeed the water here is very hard. Can I make 250ml more of stabilizer (only did 250ml) with distelled water and add to the stab I already have to see if it dillutes the problem?

 

[Photo Engineer]

No. That is not advisable.

Start fresh and use only DW if the water is that hard.

PE

 

[Rhodes]

Thanks, will due a new stab bath.

PS: By the way, do I follow your advice for the c-41 and e-6 chemicals, in the future?

 

[Photo Engineer]

C41 and E6 stabilizers, at present, are pretty much the same thing so the answer is yes.

PE

 

[Rhodes]

I was asking for all the chemicals, dev, bleach/fix, etc. Thanks!

 

[Photo Engineer]

The other solutions contain sequestrants to prevent problems with hard water, but use of DW will not hurt. It is just that in front end solutions the hard water does not have a huge impact when dry.

PE