C-41 - First Batch - Film Not entirely Clear

[Geoffsco]

I've just processed my first batch of C-41 film, using the Teteanl 'Jobo' Press kit. The film has come out not completely clear, if it were B&W, I would put it through the fixer again. Is this normal, or should I Blix it? It was in the blix for about 6 minutes, and I only mixed the powder just before processing with distilled water (5 min recommended in instructions).

Thanks.

 

[Geoffsco]

I should add, the film base is only slightly opaque, such as when fixer starts to lose its strength.

 

[WayneStevenson]

Did you put it in the blix again?

 

[Geoffsco]

I have not yet, as this was my first batch and it is combined with bleach, I was not sure if extended time would do harm. I guess not being fully fixed will for sure!

 

[BrendanCarlson]

Is the base slightly orange? I've had this happen a couple times with the tetenal kit. Just reblix it for a couple minutes. But since it's c41 it will never be completely transparent (like B&W) it will stay kinda orange.

 

[Geoffsco]

Now that the film is dry, the base is completely clear, but it does have a strong brown tint, which seems to be common with the tetenal kit from what I'm reading. I haven't used colour neg film in years, and have never used the new version of Portra 160.

 

[BrendanCarlson]

All depends on the film stock and the chems. Hope they print well!

 

[Geoffsco]

Another funny thing is the Blix is really expanding. The lid popped off my tank several times during processing, and I lost half of it. Now I have about 500ml in a 1000ml bottle, and even still the bottle is a bit puffy.

 

[BrendanCarlson]

I haven't had any expansion in mine.

 

[Bob-D659]

Too much developer carry over causes the foaming or co2 production. I used a stop bath and a water rinse before the blix for the second roll. made a huge difference.

 

[BrendanCarlson]

Ahhh, I always water wash thouroughly and dump thoroughly so I can use the chems again. They've lasted a few months so far!!!

 

[Geoffsco]

Thanks, I'm about to do a second batch, and will rinse before blix. The instructions didn't say to do that, so didn't first batch.

 

[BrendanCarlson]

Just do NOT wash after the stabilizer. Other than that, have fun!

 

[Geoffsco]

How do you store your chemicals? Fridge, freezer, or just on the shelf? Would be great if I could get a few months from them.

 

[BrendanCarlson]

Just on the shelf in a Delta 1 Datatainer with all the air pushed out.
I x-pro all the time too... which I don't think actually makes a difference.

 

[Geoffsco]

Thanks for the help, I've just scanned the first roll and am really happy with the result! After a bit of mess and a minor freak out, I'll be be sticking with it.


Harry's Cafe, Tempe by Geoff A Roberts, on Flickr

 

[pentaxpete]

Be careful if you rinse with water between Dev and Bleach as I find 'Chromogenic B&W Films' such as Ilford XP2 Super and the Fuji one ( Made by Ilford ) RETICULATE the backing coat badly and was told by Ilford Ltd NOT to rinse between Dev and Bleach.

 

[RPC]

Rinsing between developer and bleach or blix in color film development can slow and stop development in the emulsion layers at different rates, resulting in crossover. A stop bath is better.

 

[WayneStevenson]

Fresh Blix will gas out quite a bit. I only use enough volume to cover my reel to help control leakage. Is you're using SS tanks, and SS lids, switching to plastic lids will help contain it. I also leave the cap off of my lids between agitations to prevent leaks or the lid from coming off.

 

[WayneStevenson]

Oh, and to comment on your haze you're seeing on the negatives. While wet, looking through them through the opposite side and they will look fine.

 

[BrendanCarlson]

RPC, no big deal for me... I'm not going for perfect, I just am cheap/a poor student and need to use my chems alot.

 

[Vonder]

I've been doing C-41 with the press kits for about a year now. Love it.

Here are my observations:

Be careful what temps you develop at. Cooler (under 102f) is way better than over. Also, check your temps against more than 1 thermometer. I used a metal dial one and kept getting bad results, then started using a mercury one. The dial was a full 2 degrees off so I was developing at 104f. Hence why I know hotter is worser!

Dark brown negatives indicates too hot developing, or too vigorous agitation. If you see any streaking around sprocket holes, you may be agitating too violently. I was. Now I just pick the tank up and swirl it around for 5 secs. My negatives have been darn near perfect ever since, coupled with the temperature revelation.

The developer seems to be the weakest link. It goes bad long before the blix. I now use a plastic bottle and squeeze almost all the air out before recapping. That seems to help a lot. The developer will darken as it ages. If it looks blackish, it's no good.

The stabilizer must be completely dissolved in water, use warm water to mix it. I also add Photo Flo and it helps a lot. I keep Edwal's negative cleaner nearby for the streaks or spots that come up.

 

[Geoffsco]

Be careful if you rinse with water between Dev and Bleach as I find 'Chromogenic B&W Films' such as Ilford XP2 Super and the Fuji one ( Made by Ilford ) RETICULATE the backing coat badly and was told by Ilford Ltd NOT to rinse between Dev and Bleach.

I only use colour C41 films, and B&W I use normal B&W films. Is there any issue here with colour film? Is there much difference between colour and B&W c41 films?

Rinsing between developer and bleach or blix in color film development can slow and stop development in the emulsion layers at different rates, resulting in crossover. A stop bath is better.

Same stop bath as used for B&W film and paper?

 

[Photo Engineer]

Kodak C41 films are slightly opaque until dry. The negative films are normally orange due to the color mask.

If the film is still wet, you should not evaluate the image until dry. If a defect is found, you can always rewet, bleach, wash, fix, wash and stabilize. Usually, defects arise due to the use of a blix instead of a bleach and fix.

PE

 

[Geoffsco]

If a defect is found, you can always rewet, bleach, wash, fix, wash and stabilize. Usually, defects arise due to the use of a blix instead of a bleach and fix.

I would prefer to use separate bleach and fix. I've never been much of a fan of 2 in 1 anything. I am using the Tetenal Jobo C41 power press kit. Can anyone recommend a kit for home processing which does have separate chemicals? I looked on B&H, and everything else seemed to be for commercial use in large quantities.