Bulk roll film debacle

[matti]

My bulk film (35 mm efke 100) came loose where the end was taped to the roll in the cassette. It was quite inconvenient and happened three times last week on a vacation to Crete. Hopefully only one roll was ruined. (How light tight is a wet suite anyway?..)

I was using ordinary masking tape, used when painting walls and it has worked fine before. Maybe I was just lazy loading the film. Does any one have a good tape recommendation?

/matti

 

[aoresteen]

I use freer tape. Or at least I did when I bulk loaded. I haven't done any loading for 5 years as I've been buying HP5 from B&H in the 50 roll pro-pack. My time is limited so I'd rather develope & print rather than bulk load.

 

[arigram]

If you told me would be here I could have helped.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

I use ordinary masking tape, and it's worked fine. I roll the tape so that it contacts one side of the film, goes around the reel, and then to the other side of the film.

 

[Monophoto]

Like David, I also use ordinary masking tape, with the tape adhering to both sides of the film and wrapped around the spool.

There is a form of masking tape commonly used in painting (and, curiously enough, called "painter's tape") that has an adhesive that is much less 'sticky' than ordinary masking tape. Typically, it is blue in color. I think I would be reluctant to use this to attach bulk loaded film to spools.

How were you advancing the camera - manually or with a motor drive? If you are doing it manually, I can see how the enthusiasm of the moment could cause you to try too hard and rip the tape. The tension sensor in motor drive on my Nikon FM-2 (an old Spiratone unit) is sensitive enough to stop advancing before the tape tears.

 

[jim appleyard]

I use ordinary masking tape, and it's worked fine. I roll the tape so that it contacts one side of the film, goes around the reel, and then to the other side of the film.

I use the same method; again with ordinary masking tape. Never had a problem.

 

[metod]

I used to bulk load a lot and just like David above, I used ordinary masking tape. You want the tape to hold as much film as possible to add the strength. Attached is the picture showing the tape holding the film on both sides and firmly squeezed. It never came out even pulled hard with my manual film advance.

 

[Ara Ghajanian]

I use the blue painter's tape and it's been fine for me. I use a motor drive on my Nikon F3 and it's never ripped the film off the spool. I just make sure that the tape is adhered to both sides of the film.
Ara

 

[Muihlinn]

sometimes the glue goes off and looses most of their adherence, change the masking tape roll.

 

[Jim Jones]

I use the same technique as others above, but use 1/2 inch Scotch lithographer's tape. Wider lighographer's tape should be even better, but the narrow tape has never failed in hundreds of rolls. There is much variety in masking tape, and it is designed for easy removal. While lithographer's tape is designed to be removable, it is also intended to adhere securely to film. Also, lithographer's tape ages better. My supply is 10 or 15 years old, and seems as good as new.

 

[titrisol]

The blue tape is fine if you stick it to both sides.

I believe your masking tape is not sticky enough, switch brands

There is a form of masking tape commonly used in painting (and, curiously enough, called "painter's tape") that has an adhesive that is much less 'sticky' than ordinary masking tape. Typically, it is blue in color. I think I would be reluctant to use this to attach bulk loaded film to spools.

 

[Neal]

Dear Matti,

I use Scotch Magic Tape.

Neal Wydra

 

[PhotoJim]

A single width of normal masking tape, adhering both sides of the film, has worked for me for years. I've shot hundreds of rolls of bulk-loaded film and never had one come loose.

I have had the ends of the metal cassettes come loose but that's a topic for another thread

 

[Gerald Koch]

I too use the blue tape and have had no problems. As has been mentioned the trick is to have the tape wrap around so that both sides of the film are contacted. Masking tape dries out and looses its adhesiveness. I periodically test its tackiness and buy new when necessary. Freezer tape works well but is more expensive.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've been using one inch wide masking tape made and sold for car painters -- this is the highest quality tape, with a strong adhesive that still peels cleanly (has to, or car painters would switch products after a single failure). I've done about 40 rolls with it, wrapped around the spool and adhered to both surfaces of the film, and never had one come loose, including with the motor drive in my Vivitar P&S. As a bonus, it fits the slight indentation in the cassette spools I use, so the film gets to load over a constant diameter core.

 

[derevaun]

I also let the tape stick to itself a little bit. My unscientific assumption is that it's more likely to peel off the film if it's at an angle due to peeling up the spool. With just a couple milimeters stuck to itself, it stays in contact with all the surfaces.

 

[Lachlan Young]

I also let the tape stick to itself a little bit. My unscientific assumption is that it's more likely to peel off the film if it's at an angle due to peeling up the spool. With just a couple milimeters stuck to itself, it stays in contact with all the surfaces.

IIRC that's what Kodak does too - when in doubt copy!

Lachlan

 

[matti]

So everybody knew this! Thanks for the info. I will stick the tape to both sides of the film in the future.

/matti

 

[Ronald Moravec]

Been using 4 inchs of plain masking for 45 years. Wrap around the spool and put equal amounts on both sides. The cut end needs to be right against the spool and no tape gaps or bridges.