Bulb stuck in old movie projector

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Wayne

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mshchem said:
It's time to crap or get off the pot. Break the bulb get in there and grab it with some quality needle nose pliers and apply some muscle. Lube it up and get it done. If the socket isn't holding it back it should come out freely.
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Too late. I already decided to crap in post #16. .
 
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Wayne

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Such an impatient group. I decided to break the bulb I just haven't done it yet. Don't worry, you'll be the first few hundred to know when I do...
 
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Wayne

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Kino said:
Closure! WE need CLOSURE!
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Success! You might say it was a smashing success! That giant bulge on the side was preventing it from turning a full 90 degrees. Now comes the hunt for a bulb that costs less than a projector.
 

BAC1967

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Wayne said:
Success! You might say it was a smashing success! That giant bulge on the side was preventing it from turning a full 90 degrees. Now comes the hunt for a bulb that costs less than a projector.
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What bulb does it take? I can take a look in my box-o-bulbs.
 

Kino

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Do yourself a favor and clean the bulb socket with some contact cleaner and apply a tiny bit of dielectric grease to the bulb base before you put in a new bulb.

Be sure to never touch the new bulb with bare hands when installing. Wipe the bulb with a clean, dry, lint free cloth to insure no residue or finger oil resides on the bulb before turning it on for the first time.

After showing a film, always run the projector fan with the lamp off until it is cool. The bulb will last longer.

If the bulb can be obtained in a lower wattage with the proper base orientation, choose the lower wattage bulb. Unless you are showing an auditorium full of people your films, you can use a 500 watt with ease, whereas a 1000 watt bulb will heat up a room like a bomb and shorten the life of your film.
 

AgX

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Kino said:
Be sure to never touch the new bulb with bare hands when installing. Wipe the bulb with a clean, dry, lint free cloth to insure no residue or finger oil resides on the bulb before turning it on for the first time.
Click to expand...
This only applies on the small, halogen lamps, not the larger, classic ones.
Though I try to keep them clean nonetheless..
 

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AgX said:
This only applies on the small, halogen lamps, not the larger, classic ones.
Though I try to keep them clean nonetheless..
Click to expand...

True, quartz halogen bulbs demand this attention because finger oil allows the halogen gas to penetrate the glass and ruin the re deposition of tungsten onto the filament, but the older bulbs benefit from this care as well. Hand oils can cause differential cooling and heating over the surface of the glass and cause eventual deformation and cracking.
 

mshchem

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If this would have happened a couple years ago, there was 2 long standing stores. One in particular was University Camera in Iowa City. Roger Christian owner, he would have stuff that no one else had. I remember his box of the old school projector lamps. I made a remark that no one would ever want that kind of stuff. He said that he had customers, older, that depended on being able to find a bulb. He would buy up this stuff when other shops closed.
But the two excellent brick and mortar stores we had that were great are now gone. Both owners are alive and prosperous so it was happy endings.
 

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ERROR CORRECTION
I was not alert when typing the below:
AgX said:
If there is a mirror in such system, a classic incandescant lamp must be orientated in such a way that the primary and the mirrored image of the filament, as to be caught in front of the projection lens, are located on top of ach other.
Click to expand...

With classic incandscant lamps the images of the filament must be interwined.

When typing I for unknown reason imagined the halogen lamps, where indeed the images must be on top of each other...
(The filament winding here is so narrow that no intertwining is possible.)
 
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Wayne

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Here is what it looked like before the smash. The heat bulge was on the rear (left) side where the opening for the mirror is, which allowed it to bulge beyond the diameter of the main condenser housing. So it would only turn 45 degrees or less before hitting that housing.








BAC1967 said:
What bulb does it take? I can take a look in my box-o-bulbs.
Click to expand...

Well I can show you the top and the bottom, but that's all. It has a 1" diameter base and locks in with the tabs as shown above. It can take up to 750 watt but I'd prefer 500. It appears similar to this one below, which I won't buy because its used and they have short lifespans to begin with

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SYLVANIA-B...P-BULB-CZX-DAB-500-WATT-120-VOLT/313348849736
 

AgX

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I habe not seen such lamp encapsulation before.
 
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Wayne

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BAC1967

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It should take either the CZX/DAB which are 500W or the DDB, DGH or DDY which are 750W. I do have a few DDB bulbs, if you're interested send me a PM.
 
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Wayne

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BAC1967 said:
It should take either the CZX/DAB which are 500W or the DDB, DGH or DDY which are 750W. I do have a few DDB bulbs, if you're interested send me a PM.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer. I double checked and 750w is the maximum I can use, so I would like to try to get a 500w and see how that works before using a 750 again (I presume that's what mine was but am not certain. I'm only certain that it got too hot!)

It actually says I can go down to 200 watt but since I'm going to try and digitize I don't think I want to go that low
 

BAC1967

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The offer stands if you change your mind. The CZX/DAB bulbs are quite common, you should be able to find a good deal on them.
 

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Just went for a rummage in my attic--looking at two CZX/DAB GE lamps. PM me if you want 'em.
 

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In the past, I have seen people arge that the opposite is true, and that bulb life was shortened by running the fan and that the fan was present to allow rapid cooling when bulb replacement was required.

I have no reason to doubt you, as I don't really have experience with this.
 
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