building a system

[klarifon]

Hello!
I'm thinking of getting into LF in the summer, I currently have Rolleiflex for MF and a Nikon for 35mm. So for LF what would be the way to go? I've been thinking of a Speed Graphic because they are cool and cheap , but then again is there any use getting one of those except to get into LF? I mean you don't get a lot of movements, and I would like to have the possibility for that. But then again maybe its better to stay simple with the first camera.. Hard decisions as always . And what other things would I need? I don't have a good tripod or a big enough backpack and no spotmeter (except a DSLR). I do have a Gossen Lunasix but I would like a spotmeter. I would also need to get my hands on some kind of 4x5 enlarger because at the moment we only have up to 6x6. So what else would I need than that to get going? I would love to get some advice on different options.
And as always: the cheaper the better . I don't have enormous amounts of money lying around. I'm only a 18 year old student earning a couple thousand a year, but I live at home so I don’t have a lot of expenses, I don't have a girlfriend to spend money on and I don't spend much money on other things than things I like but unfortunately that includes musical instruments, Hi-Fi gear, bicycles and cameras .

Thank you!
/Jonas

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Jonas

Get a girlfriend who spends her money on you! Tell her, it's called emancipation.

Seriously, if I were you, I would a used lens, buy a couple of holders and built my own LF camera. You'll find plans on the web and besides being a lot of fun, the whole thing is very satisfying!

 

[jeroldharter]

For your budget, one option is to buy a used 8x10, 1 lens, a couple of holders, and do contact prints. All you need is a couple of trays. Your camera gear would fit in a simple simple rucksack. you would need a solid tripod. You can use your existing light meter (I assume it has an incident mode). You don't need a spot meter to get started.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Jerold makes a good point. Large-format photography is all about getting back to basics.

If you don't have a lightmeter yet, consider a used incident and/or spotmeter.

 

[klarifon]

Thank you for the advices. I have been thinking of both those options , with the help of my dad I should probably be able to build a simple camera myself or then I could go on a frenzy and actually buy a 8x10 if I find a cheap enough one. Or maybe I'll do both ^^. By the way is there a lot of people actually enlarging from 8x10 or is it more common to do contacts shoot 4x5 if you intend to enlarge?

The people on this forum are bad company for me and my wallet

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Thank you for the advices. I have been thinking of both those options , with the help of my dad I should probably be able to build a simple camera myself or then I could go on a frenzy and actually buy a 8x10 if I find a cheap enough one. Or maybe I'll do both ^^. By the way is there a lot of people actually enlarging from 8x10 or is it more common to do contacts shoot 4x5 if you intend to enlarge?

The people on this forum are bad company for me and my wallet

Always good to have a dad like that, and the camera will be something to cherish for a lifetime.

 

[Ian Grant]

Thank you for the advices. I have been thinking of both those options , with the help of my dad I should probably be able to build a simple camera myself or then I could go on a frenzy and actually buy a 8x10 if I find a cheap enough one. Or maybe I'll do both ^^. By the way is there a lot of people actually enlarging from 8x10 or is it more common to do contacts shoot 4x5 if you intend to enlarge?

The people on this forum are bad company for me and my wallet

If you find a cheap Speed or Crown Graphic everything else you buy (lenses, film holders etc) can be used on a better 5x4 camera later. So it's a possible way to start.

I shoot 10x8 but it's not so practical much of the time, so 5x4 is my prime format, and I've mainly used a Wista for the past 25 years.

However I can work hand held with a Graphic which is great in places tripods aren't permitted but the range of movements can be an issue particularly in Portrait mode (vertical rectangle).

Enlarging 5x4 gives superb quality even when printing large prints and when I started with 10x8 I intended to contact print, but one look at the first negatives and I bought an enlarger so I could make proper use of the negatives qualities

LF work is fun, it's not any harder than 35mm or MF, but it requires far more disciplined but that usually means a far higher success rate in terms of images shot/exhibition or publication etc.

Ian

 

[John Kasaian]

A Speed or Crown is a lot of fun, but as you point out it isn't the best if you want a camera with a lot of movements like swings and tilts.
If you have the money, I think a used Linhof Technika would be an excellent choice. If the option of hand held photography isn't important, a monorail will give you more performance for less money. Any of the old Calumets (especially the 400 series) or Graphiv Views (I like the II) should give you excellent service. If you want to back pack any great distance then a wooden field camera will likely be your best bet.
There is plenty of good affordable vintage glass for 4x5 cameras.
If you want to contact print then a 5x7 or 8x10 are the way to go, but stuff like film holders, film, and chemicals get more costly (and heavier!)

 

[Ian Grant]

There's a nice "RAJA / PRINZDORFF 4x5 Deardorff copy" on another forum, while it's 5x4 with a revolving back it'll also take a 5x7 back, so is versatile, if I had the spare cash I'd buy this one myself.

Monorails are an option, but they aren't as practical for field work outside a studio (I have 2), and I've never run out of movements with a Wista, and a Shen Hao would be similar, and the beauty of them is they fold away quickly into a backpack or similar.

Beware the 5x7 route, as film holders and a range of films is harder find in Europe, while 5x4 & 10x8 are plentiful.

Ian

 

[olleorama]

Hello Jonas, if you would concentrate on photography and not building stuff I would recommend buying a used monorail. I got mine for under €150. ffordes.co.uk and peterwalnes.com are two UK based dealers which every once in a while have decent prices on LF gear. I too was planning on making my own, but realised I like photography more than carpentry. You will need a lot of tools too.

If you do insist on building your own, think of buying a used revolvable ground glass holder and springback from ebay and use that, that will save you many hours of work and headaches.

Onnea!

 

[Ian Grant]

Add MWClassic to the list of reasonable priced 2nd hand cameras, sometimes he has some great bargains.

Ian

 

[KenR]

I think you have to decide what you want to use the camera for, prior to purchasing. If you are going to use it for studio work then a monorail is the way to go. For architectural work, a monorail or a field camera with a lot of movements and the ability to use a bag bellows for wide angle lenses is probably best. For hiking then weight becomes the most important factor. I started with a Crown Graphic and learned a lot about large format photography with this, but then got a field camera when I found the limited movements on the Crown were a factor.

 

[klarifon]

Thank you all for the valuable information! I think I'll use it mostly for landscape of some sort. What about the sinar F1 or F2? I've heard they are reasonably easy to use in the field.

I've been out of town playing in a musical so I haven't had the chance to answer your messages before now.

 

[DanielStone]

I have a sinar f2 for sale with a 75mm Super Angulon f/8. great kit

great condition, read more about it here(craigslist posting here in LA)

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pho/1611980824.html

-Dan

 

[ronlamarsh]

Gear

To start in 4x5 you'll want an enlarger, I would suggest looking for an old omega D2 they're cheap and work. But you'll need a lens also plus all the other stuff for enlarging. Rather than 8X10 getting an older Burke&james 5X7 and doing contacts with that is another option plus you won't invest so much that if you don't like it you won't feel stuck. I have one that I refurbished made my own lens boards plus have one with a packard shutter and a 13" apo wollensak that is very satisfying. you can use the large negatives to try alt process too.