BTZS 8x10 tubes

[Lumi]

I have just started using BTZS tubes for 8x10 negatives. My Delta 100 negatives are evenly developed but all of them have scratches on the base side, probably this is the result of the vigorous initial ten second agitation where the neg flies back and forth inside the tube. Is there a way to avoid getting the negs scratched? I have seen both sanding down the interior of the tubes with 600/1200 sanding paper or using acetone to “melt” the interior walls. What would your recommendation be?
Thanks,
Sverre

 

[Alan9940]

I have used these tubes for 30+ years and have never had any scratches. I don’t think the film flies around during the initial agitation. All that said, I do have a prior style tube. I wouldn’t recommend using any chemical on them. Before you do anything, I’d suggest calling or emailing Fred at the View Camera Store and discuss the issue with him.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I NEVER shake vigorously, like they do on the video. I think that is just silly, especially with 8x10 film. You can hear it sliding around in there. I stick the tubes in water and start rolling quickly, for the first 30 seconds, then slower for the remainder. Also, I do not like the newer, black tubes. The lip can scratch the film base easier than the older, heavy, gray ones (which I prefer to use...sit in the water better, and spin easier). So, to prevent back scratching, don't shake, and avoid the lip as much as possible when sliding the film in and out. You could lightly sand the lip's inner edge with very fine sand paper... I've heard of some people doing that.

 

[Lumi]

Thanks for your comments. I agree with Andrew that 8x10 film do slide back and forth during the initial shake (vigorously as shown in the videos). As a first measure I will stop doing the 10 second shake and also sand the tubes with 600 and then 1200 sanding paper and report back my findings. I have the new black tube type and have noticed that the inner surface is not as smooth as one could wish for.

 

[Alan9940]

I probably should have mentioned that I don't shake vigorously, either; just a few gentle shakes, and then into the water. I, too, have the old, heavy gray tubes so, maybe, that's why I've never had any issues. I have read that the newer black tubes are not as nice and the lip can scratch the film, if not very careful. If sanding doesn't resolve your scratching issue, you might consider building a few for yourself out of 4" electrical conduit. I've built several in both 4x5 and 8x10 size for doing extreme minimal agitation, but I don't see why they wouldn't work just like the BTZS tubes.

 

[mitch brown]

I just started using the 8 x 10 tubes with whole plate film and the backs are very scratched up also I will try it with out the shaking so thanks for the info

 

[KenS]

I have just started using BTZS tubes for 8x10 negatives. My Delta 100 negatives are evenly developed but all of them have scratches on the base side, probably this is the result of the vigorous initial ten second agitation where the neg flies back and forth inside the tube. Is there a way to avoid getting the negs scratched? I have seen both sanding down the interior of the tubes with 600/1200 sanding paper or using acetone to “melt” the interior walls. What would your recommendation be?
Thanks,
Sverre

I have been using the older 'grey' BTZS tube for both 4x5 and my 8x10 films for some 15 Years... and have NEVER had ANY scratches... but then... I ALWAYS pre-soak my film in a tray of water (at temperature) for 'about 1.5 to 2 minutes.
The 'waterbath' for rotation is a 'Tupperware' container with water 'at temperature' that sits on an old waterbath heater (folded). Yes I would love to be able to afford love to have the current BTZS bath with 'motor drive' rotation but I'd rather spend those $$$ on film.When I first started using the tubes I was informed that the tubes should be 'pe-wetted' inside AND film should be pre-soaked (in the dark)... which allows the wet film to 'slip' into the tube with ease. My 'extra caps are pre-filled with fixer and sit 'behind the waterbath' such that they can easily be 'found in the dark
I swear will never go back to either 'Film holders in tank" or Tray development for any of my B/W sheet film processing.

Ken
.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have been using the older 'grey' BTZS tube for both 4x5 and my 8x10 films for some 15 Years... and have NEVER had ANY scratches... but then... I ALWAYS pre-soak my film in a tray of water (at temperature) for 'about 1.5 to 2 minutes.
The 'waterbath' for rotation is a 'Tupperware' container with water 'at temperature' that sits on an old waterbath heater (folded). Yes I would love to be able to afford love to have the current BTZS bath with 'motor drive' rotation but I'd rather spend those $$$ on film.When I first started using the tubes I was informed that the tubes should be 'pe-wetted' inside AND film should be pre-soaked (in the dark)... which allows the wet film to 'slip' into the tube with ease. My 'extra caps are pre-filled with fixer and sit 'behind the waterbath' such that they can easily be 'found in the dark
I swear will never go back to either 'Film holders in tank" or Tray development for any of my B/W sheet film processing.

Ken
.

I have a mix of older grey tubes and newer black tubes. The grey tubes are superior imo.

 

[Lumi]

I followed Andrew’s advice and dropped the vigorous initial agitation, just put the two tubes quickly into the water bath and did a fast spinn for ten seconds, then slowed down. In addition I wet sanded the interior walls and lips of my three tubes and lids with 600, then 1200 sanding paper. My negatives now turn out fine with no scratches. To conclude I will advice against doing the initial shaking as shown in The View Camera Store videos. May be this worked well for the old gray type of tubes, but with the new type it causes scratches on the base side. Thanks for all comments, I hope this will help others with similar problems.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Glad to hear it!