Speaking of 2X converter......................? I do plan on picking either a 1.4X or 2X converter up in the future, but was curious as to which one is better optically? Most of the time the 1.4X converters beat out the 2x one, but not always. I have an off brand one I got for cheap for my Hasselblad and was amazed at how well it worked on my 250mm. Well enough that I won't be getting the 500mm Tele-Tessar unless it falls in my lap for almost nothing.
John, I went for the 2X teleconverter ahead of one or more of the longer prime lenses because of the change in filter size in the longer lenses, and the absence of good reviews for the longer lenses. I can't say I read anything outright negative about them, but reviews were rather tepid compared to the 150mm and shorter lens reviews. I also got a great price on the teleconverter, which in practice adds two additional focal lengths to my kit, for 1/4 the price of a longer FL prime. I don't have and haven't tried a 1.4X teleconverter, but I would expect it to give images somewhat superior to the 2X - for the same reason that wiltw gives in his post. But perhaps there isn't enough of a difference to get discouraged about.Speaking of 2X converter......................? I do plan on picking either a 1.4X or 2X converter up in the future, but was curious as to which one is better optically? Most of the time the 1.4X converters beat out the 2x one, but not always. I have an off brand one I got for cheap for my Hasselblad and was amazed at how well it worked on my 250mm. Well enough that I won't be getting the 500mm Tele-Tessar unless it falls in my lap for almost nothing.
I think the 200 is a touch less common (I think it is also 1yr newer?) Having to use 82mm filters for the 200 is a bit ugh, but it is not much bigger than the 150 and if you want, at this focal length you could almost certainly use a step down to 72mm ring.
Yes, it's one thing I think all systems cameras with interchangeable backs should have, and that's a storage slot for the dark slide. I have several dark slides for my Hasselblad that have a slight curve to them from being tucked in a rear jeans pocket. The curve comes from setting down while they're in my rear pocket.Haven't tried the teleconverters myself, but I will mention that if bag space isn't an issue, the Gs-1 200/250 are usually very affordable. The 250 is especially cheap (like <$200). I think the 200 is a touch less common (I think it is also 1yr newer?) Having to use 82mm filters for the 200 is a bit ugh, but it is not much bigger than the 150 and if you want, at this focal length you could almost certainly use a step down to 72mm ring. I had heard the 200 was a better lens which is why I bought it and squinting at the mtf, it does seem a touch better, but I doubt you'd notice in practice. At 970g, the 200mm is a lot lighter than the 1200g 250 though and that you will notice in practice.
I wish I could buy the 500, just as a collector of things. My word, that lens on paper sounds incredible (but is v rare and $2k+...)
I have the 65mm and while I do use it, I kinda find it eh to use. I think the focal length bothers me a bit. It is not very special feeling. I think the 65-100/110-150 does make sense, buuut that 50mm does seem just a bit special.
It is a bit heavier and yeah it takes 95mm filters, but I think it is one of the real gems of the system. I shouldn't look so much at mtfs but that center performance is bonkers even compared to the other PG lenses. (http://web.archive.org/web/20041206063145/http://www.tamron.com/bronica/prod/gs50.asp). I wish my copy didn't have a touch of fungus, broke my heart when I learned it couldn't be cleaned off even if it probably has no impact on performance.
But darn this whole thread has made me want to use my gs-1 more. Gah!
Stray pro-tip: Once you have a back loaded and on the camera, remove the dark slide and keep it in your bag until you need to change backs (WHY DID YOU NOT GIVE US A DARK SLIDE STORAGE SLOT BRONICA JEEEZ). The backs have 1 little flaw where they can open slightly easily if you leave the dark slide in.
Yes, it's one thing I think all systems cameras with interchangeable backs should have, and that's a storage slot for the dark slide. I have several dark slides for my Hasselblad that have a slight curve to them from being tucked in a rear jeans pocket. The curve comes from setting down while they're in my rear pocket.
What's the current state of Bronica gs-1 repair/maintenance if one should need it?
Looks like there are a few folks who do it, but I don't know if there is an actual service handling them. Service manuals are available though, so see of the stuff cna be at least taken apart.
I have sadly found out that weak point in the body is the electromagnet loosing stamina over time (or use, not sure) and failing to trigger shutter as result. In the day of actual factory service, electromagnet was replaced, now I doubt there is an option. Apparently some lubrication in the area helps, but not a long term fix.
This bugs me as I have two bodies, one doing fine, the other only triggers now one of the 4 lenses I have. How long the good one will last I have no idea. Will it fail when I take it out at any time? I don't know. I guess need to find one of the latest SN bodies for longer term back up.
There was cosmetic update to later bodies with black buttons, and that is a telltale for getting a later one. There may be some sources with actual serial numbers for GS1, but main thing is, if shutter/film back release buttons are black, and back plate has nearly no marks from film back reattachment events, it has not had all that much use.I'm curious as to where you find the serial number runs for dating your camera body?
Hassasin, can you mention any of the folks who will work on GS-1s?Looks like there are a few folks who do it, but I don't know if there is an actual service handling them. Service manuals are available though, so see of the stuff cna be at least taken apart.
I have sadly found out that weak point in the body is the electromagnet loosing stamina over time (or use, not sure) and failing to trigger shutter as result. In the day of actual factory service, electromagnet was replaced, now I doubt there is an option. Apparently some lubrication in the area helps, but not a long term fix.
This bugs me as I have two bodies, one doing fine, the other only triggers now one of the 4 lenses I have. How long the good one will last I have no idea. Will it fail when I take it out at any time? I don't know. I guess need to find one of the latest SN bodies for longer term back up.
Hassasin, can you mention any of the folks who will work on GS-1s?
Hassasin, can you mention any of the folks who will work on GS-1s?
Tom, a nearly new GS-1 body without accessories can easily be found within $150-250 range. There's a couple of them on KEH. You can get three GS-1 bodies for less than a CLA from someone like Odess, Fleenor, or DAG.
It is hard to build a business servicing a platform that's so cheap to replace.
Tom, a nearly new GS-1 body without accessories can easily be found within $150-250 range. There's a couple of them on KEH. You can get three GS-1 bodies for less than a CLA from someone like Odess, Fleenor, or DAG.
It is hard to build a business servicing a platform that's so cheap to replace.
Problem is that it's hard to tell how long any of them will last. It seems the problem that stops them from triggering a lens' shutter is not going to be gradual.
I'm not really trying to alarm anyone, all I can do is search and read. But I also am one who owns a failing one and it is an odd case. Any discussions on GS1 issues are few and usually a short exchange at that too. Maybe there aren't a lot of actual failures, I don't know.. And so far only one case with sam symptoms and factory electromagnet exchange to get it going again. Possibly there was an and batch of electromagnets and not all bodies are doomed to fail from this.
But it is scary to know that a body can indeed fail and that could happen while away shooting with no back up option (mine is not really used that much , very slight wear on the back plate from magazine mounting).
I've got no time to post scans of manual at this moment (looks like electromagnet is in the upper part of the body though, on shutter dial side), but bottom line is the electromagnet is part of the whole shutter cycle system in the body.Can someone explain where the electromagnet is in the body and what it fires?
I know about the electromagnet in the lens shutters. There is some good information written by Max Vettore on how the Seiko electronic lens shutters work; it was at buonaluce.com, which is not alive any more, but you can get his pdf writeups from archive.org at https://web.archive.org/web/20160109153958/http://buonaluce.com/
He writes specifically about SQ lenses, but so far as I know the lens shutters are essentially the same in the ETR, SQ, and GS lines.
<snip> (looks like electromagnet is in the upper part of the body though, on shutter dial side), but bottom line is the electromagnet is part of the whole shutter cycle system in the body.
It appears that the GS1 release electro magnet is located at the bottom, next to the shutter button, and close to the mirror pre-release / mechanical release lever, which makes sense as it's releasing the same mechanism.Some pages from service manual on the GS1 in body shutter release electromagnet location (part 20013110), if anyone can use it.
It appears that the GS1 release electro magnet is located at the bottom, next to the shutter button, and close to the mirror pre-release / mechanical release lever, which makes sense as it's releasing the same mechanism.
Electromagnets itself typically do not fail in a intermittent way, they typically either work or do not work. If it is acting intermittently, the coil is usually fine, it's the mechanical linkage or the electronic circuit supplying the current that is bad.
Electromagnets mechanically move an armature over a very short distance, so mechanically it can fail if that armature is out of adjustment (wear/loose parts) or is stiff from dried lubricant. Electrically, the circuit may have a failed component (capacitors are typical, but also cold solder joints) which causes a drop in the supplied current, reducing the force at the electromagnet. The GS1 lenses also has a delay circuit (a simple RC circuit) for timing, so that can be out of tolerance (ie; not energizing the magnet soon enough to hold the shutter open).
I should probably post this in the other current thread (Zenzanon S 80 mm lens shutter irregular) for relevancy...
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