You have to remove the back in order to dry fire the camera. Unfortunately, the dark slide must be inserted to remove the back...
Your new camera was listed as used rather than as-is so If the lens has fungus you should send it back to the seller and find a more complete, fully functional example.
Or, having sated your curiosity, move on to something else.
The EC cameras look terrific on paper but have a serious problem with a rubber mirror bumper which if deteriorated or missing makes it impossible to achieve correct focus.
Too bad that the rubber part is unobtainable and no one has the specs to make a duplicate part.
He gave me a partial refund for the lens and I bought a home made dark slide off ebay. Iv'e since sold the camera and bought a 500 C/M.I know this is an older thread , but did you finally get satisfaction ? And how about his name so I don't find myself bidding on anything he sells . Peter
I entirely disagree with S2A over EC. EC has far less mirror slap. Lenses are the same for both. Mirror is one point of concern, perhaps as EC has split mirror design (which makes it work so much sweeter over S2) while S2 shoots the whole one-piece. However, while the EC is a lift/drop arrangement (depending which part of mirror we're looking at), S2 is slide down out-of-way, unique in both cases. But the biggest issue on EC is that bottom, much smaller, mirror can often be found with damage, from scratches to cracks, so be sure to see photos of the mirrors to see it is not scratched. This is coming from 100 lens and its peculiar design in EC set-up and it must be dismounted in a different way from rest of the lenses, or it will hit the mirror for sure.I used to shoot EC's and I had an S2a once. Like said earlier, The early model Bronicas had brass winding gears that would strip in professional use. The S2a and later EC models had stronger metal gears so the problem was eliminated. If you buy an earlier model it is recommended that you wind film with the knob and not fold out the crank. This reduces torque on the brass gears.
EC stands for Electronically Controlled shutter which was powered by a battery. The earlier S2a had a mechanical shutter so it does not use a battery. These cameras are pretty old now. I'd recommend the S2a over the EC models because it doesn't have electronics to fail.
Not true at all, conical knob is on early models, then squarish one was put on S2 and as far I could tell, exact same knob is on the S2A, Not to mention knobs can be changed. If SN does not end with S2A (both, body and backs had that) it becomes a matter of late SN numbers, short of stripping body naked to check gear material. I think SN did not reach 200XXX on the body before production stopped.The advance knob on the S2 is more conical in appearance than the one found on all S2A's irrespective of the serial number.
Perhaps we're not seeing squarish the same way. sides of the knob are almost parallel, that is what I meant. And that is a newer knob.The squarish nob is on the earlier model S.
He gave me a partial refund for the lens and I bought a home made dark slide off ebay. Iv'e since sold the camera and bought a 500 C/M.
If you had that 150 on auction with no or low reserve, than it is always a gamble with final price directly related to that moment of interest and from what kind of crowd. If you had it for BIN at 100-120, it was rather a sell if in great condition. But US market is vastly different from say Europe where Bronicas are on a different (low/scarce) supply level and prices are 30-50% higher. But similar difference applies to most photographic gear.Are you talking about the later Bronica leaf shutter lenses or the early Bronica lenses for focal plane shutter cameras? I sold my 150mm Bronica Zenza lens on Ebay and only got $75.00 for it. The 75mm Nikkors went for even less. I've seen 50mm lenses go pretty cheap. I did sell my 40mm lens for $400-$500 but they are rare as hen's teeth and it went to a collector. The later Bronica leaf shutter lenses do bring more money.
Sure, the small access point in the back that allows camera's pin to make it "life" upon mounting needs a little poker to press in and slide is off. Same needs to be done for reinsertion of slide, in reverse of course.^Are there no tricks to removing the dark slide after film back removal , that would allow a simple frosted glass( packing tape)
to be placed in the film plane and compare image in viewfinder with the frosted plate . Adjust rubber stopper until they match.
Peter
I am still here but everything has changed since I posted. Since then I have purchased and sold all the cameras mentioned and then some. What I have now is a Hassy 500 C/M, Kowa Six, Kodak Medalist II, Minolta Autocord, Rolleiflex 2.8C and E, I am still looking for a deal on a Bronica EC, but I only buy cameras at a price I can resell for a profit or for what I paid for it. The one I have owned and regret selling is a Mamiya 7, It was fantastic, but I didn't want to have that much money tied up in one camera that would be on display most of the time, and it's not that interesting looking for display like the others. I will be selling either the Rolleiflex 2.8 C or E but haven't decided on which one yet. They both are in excellent condition but have a flaw which will be described fully when up for sale.^Thanks for the reply , I hope the OP is still watching this thread, Peter
The EC&TL does appear t have gone up. Then I got 2 film backs in top shape for about $85 each delivered (hard to find them especially without leatherette shrinking away, and visibly so). But whatever caused prices to creep up, it becomes more of a constant game waiting for that widow getting rid of late husband's collection.How coincidental ! I recently sold my Mamiya 7 kit , excellent ,but wanting to project slides made it unnecessary . I sold a Medalist 1 years ago also ,
once again a great camera and lens , but no way were those slides going to be projected . Presently own a few Kowa six and definitely enjoy them and
the selection of lenses , sold all my YashicaMats , fun and light , but only one lens . Was looking at the Bronica EC-TL models , but they've become rather
valuable of late . Peter
If you had that 150 on auction with no or low reserve, than it is always a gamble with final price directly related to that moment of interest and from what kind of crowd. If you had it for BIN at 100-120, it was rather a sell if in great condition. But US market is vastly different from say Europe where Bronicas are on a different (low/scarce) supply level and prices are 30-50% higher. But similar difference applies to most photographic gear.
Well, it was an N back, so not so much. Then it was older one with single lock. Then seller tricked buyers with title for a W, then showed an N.I see one of the 135-W backs sold last week on ebay for $152.50.
Seems like a bargain price: https://www.ebay.com/bfl/viewbids/153763195961?item=153763195961&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2565
The back clearly has an N on side, and seller conveniently did not show the other side of film holderSeller claims its a W, in mint condition...
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