That's why I made sure to buy a USA F6 (gold sticker on the menu flap). Nikon not servicing cameras bought elsewhere is complete and 100% BS. What if you lived in another country and then moved to the US? etc.
My F6 was originally sold in Japan, so I'm guessing Nikon USA won’t touch it..
Why not increase the development time?
I really like my Leica IIIf too, and I have a few manual Nikons that also I enjoy. Then there are the cheaper Nikon AF's that I leave in each vehicle. Hard to beat having a camera with you vs. not having one.
Roger
That's why I made sure to buy a USA F6 (gold sticker on the menu flap). Nikon not servicing cameras bought elsewhere is complete and 100% BS. What if you lived in another country and then moved to the US? etc.
I remember reading something to the effect that Nikon will no longer supply repair or replacement parts to independent repair shops. And the repair issue only involves the F6 anyway. Nikon USA does not service any other film Nikons.This is a complaint that over the years I have heard about other brands. It has to do with marketing rights, marketing costs, brand names, trademarks, ... However you could probably get it fixed by KEH or Samy's Camera.
I remember reading something to the effect that Nikon will no longer supply repair or replacement parts to independent repair shops. And the repair issue only involves the F6 anyway. Nikon USA does not service any other film Nikons.
Why not buy a film that actually is rated correctly? That is far more useful to me. I buy ISO 400 film because that is what I wanted, not ISO 200.
If I had any Foma 400 left I'd accommodate for it. But I'm buying Kentmere 400 at that price point.
I have always assumed that the film manufacturer would want a customer trying one of their films for the first time to get good, or at least acceptable, results and that I would not go too far wrong by following their exposure and development recommendations for the first few rolls at least.ISO ratings are for very specific conditions and with very specific test criteria that may or may not work for a given person. I rarely shoot any film other than transparency film at "box speed." But then I'm a basic zone system guy for my 4x5 stuff too and most films, even modern ones, will test to a little slower than claimed.
There's nothing magical or even always especially "accurate" about the box speed rating. For practical photography it is, at best, a starting point.
What if you lived in another country and then moved to the US? etc.
I have always assumed that the film manufacturer would want a customer trying one of their films for the first time to get good, or at least acceptable, results and that I would not go too far wrong by following their exposure and development recommendations for the first few rolls at least.
(Stop bath, fixer and washing are another matter. My personal workflow has been successful for me for many years. If it doesn't work with a particular film that's the end of that film for me.)
Besides which, the differences in ISO being discussed are seldom more than one full stop, which is within the margin of error most metering (Zone System acolytes with proper spot meters excepted.
Carefully defined for what developer? The curves published by the manufacturers show significant differences for different film/developer combinations, including at the toe of the curve where the ASA/ISO values were/are determined. Quoting a film's ISO without reference to a particular developer and process is not very useful.ISO is a carefully defined measurement that replaced the old ASA. It isn't just what the manufacturer thinks will produce the best results.
ISO is a carefully defined measurement that replaced the old ASA. It isn't just what the manufacturer thinks will produce the best results.
ISO speeds provided by film manufacturers generally apply to films when they are processed in accordance iwth their recommendations to produce the photographic characteristics specified for the process. -- ISO 5.4.2 Processing Specifications
I wish I had never visited this thread. I am now searching eNay looking for an F6.
Actually ISO allows the manufacturer to specifiy the conditions that will produce the best results.
Carefully defined for what developer? The curves published by the manufacturers show significant differences for different film/developer combinations, including at the toe of the curve where the ASA/ISO values were/are determined. Quoting a film's ISO without reference to a particular developer and process is not very useful.
Does anyone else read this thread title and think that it is going to lead to a Country and Western song?
This is one of those thread titles that still makes sense in a different order. Mine would read "Ordered a F6 and now broke"
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