I'm saving up for an F6 and a Ferrari.
AAARRRRRHHHHGGGG!!!!! It is AN F6. Not a F6.
Ok, I feel better now.
Are you shooting in P mode?
Gonna use my F6 w/ 18-35G,
Lol, the F6 arrived while I was in the hospital (gallbladder), had to redirect the package to a pickup location, because I sure didn’t won’t it sitting on the front stairs in plain view. Fortunately my wife was able to pick the package up for me before it got returned to Japan. So it was waiting for me when I arrived home. Today I finally felt well enough to check out the camera and I'm certainly impressed with it. I spent some time with the owners manual getting everything set the way I wanted. So far so go, maybe this weekend I can put a roll of film through it.
Roger
I've been shooting for a long time, switched to fully digital and then came back to film for personal stuff. I have a bunch of fun vintage gear in my collection from the 1950's and enjoy using stuff like my Nikon rangefinder gear etc. Love shooting with my Leica M2 as well as an OM-2n.
Recently I bought a F5 for cheap to try using my collection of modern glass I use with my D4. I have some really nice modern f1.4G primes, as well as good zooms with VR and wanted to try using them on film. I have been impressed with the F5, and have found being able to free myself from worrying about exposure, and even focusing, is a liberating shooting experience. I went out this past weekend with my F5 and a 85mm f1.4D and was blown away with the results. There are a few things about the F5 that still feel distracting in use, mainly the poor implementation of displaying the focus point in use, so I pulled the trigger on a "EX" rated F6 from KEH. The idea of a smaller format version of what the F5 can do, with some other improvements, makes me feel this could be something that fits what I want from a user film camera, something that takes care of the things I don't need to be dealing with and can focus on capturing images. I can see using this with a 24-120VR being able to cover almost anything, plus opens up using cool glass like my 58mm f1.4G, 105mm F2 DC etc. Being able to use iTTL flash is also very appealing as I've learned how great/easy that can be to using a flash.
I know this in some ways feels contrary to the whole analog experience of shooting film with a Rolleiflex or even my M2, but I also feel like this could open up the part of shooting that I enjoy when I am shooting digital, but has the soul I get from shooting B&W film in the results.
F6 or any other modern AF film camera makes a lot more sense TO ME and it is more universal and effortless to shoot better than 100% of expansive old cameras including Leica.
Now if Leica had at least 4000 shutter that is a different storry.
I have so many cameras but reach for the Minolta A7 A5 and Canon 300V more than any other.
Because a 400 ISO film I can film at the beach and in the evening with one camera.
When I am with the leica CL and minolta CLE I have to have 2 different speeds film in them and carry both.
It does not matter how small a camera is when you have to carry 2.
Lol, the F6 arrived while I was in the hospital (gallbladder), had to redirect the package to a pickup location, because I sure didn’t won’t it sitting on the front stairs in plain view. Fortunately my wife was able to pick the package up for me before it got returned to Japan. So it was waiting for me when I arrived home. Today I finally felt well enough to check out the camera and I'm certainly impressed with it. I spent some time with the owners manual getting everything set the way I wanted. So far so go, maybe this weekend I can put a roll of film through it.
Roger
I've read that elsewhere too, but I always begin the evaluation of a film following the manufacturer's instruction. Foma says the 400 can be overexposed by 1 EV (ISO 200) or underexposed by as much as to 2 EV (ISO 1600) without any change in processing. I'm going with ISO 400 in Rodinal (1+50) for 11 minutes at 20º C which is, coincidentally, exactly what I use for Tri-X.I have found the ISO rating of Kentmere 400 is accurate, but Foma 400 should be shot at 200.
Yeah, with Foma 400 I process normally - no change to anything. But expose it at ISO 200. Comes out great. If I do all that but expose at 400, it comes out flat and murky.I've read that elsewhere too, but I always begin the evaluation of a film following the manufacturer's instruction. Foma says the 400 can be overexposed by 1 EV (ISO 200) or underexposed by as much as to 2 EV (ISO 1600) without any change in processing. I'm going with ISO 400 in Rodinal (1+50) for 11 minutes at 20º C which is, coincidentally, exactly what I use for Tri-X.
Well I am loving this F6 so much I bought a second super clean one with a "nikon USA" sticker inside the flip down door, and sent this one off to nikon USA service for a refresh, new internal battery and asked for the non-ais lens mod. They gave me a quote for all of this at $285, so I hope they still can get the parts to do all of this. I sent my D700 to them a few years ago to refresh it like this, and it came back looking and working like new. I wanted to get this done before the F6 drops off their list of cameras they officially repair. I also got the grid line focus screen for one body and a split image screen to use with the other body for MF glass. I also found with my eyesight the -2 diopter, set near the middle, looks crisper than just cranking down the built in adjustment.
I get what people are saying about using this camera in P&S mode with a AF lens, but I also feel like I can toss a MF lens on, with the split image focus screen option, and get a more engaging experience if that is what I am looking for. Having the extra high shutter speed is very nice when I want to shoot wide open with fast glass in good light plus just knowing the exposure is going to get nailed every time is great, especially when shooting slide film at the cost of that today. Add to that the between the frames exposure info + the data it saves internally, is very cool. Oh I also got one of the last "Meta 35" USB kits, for downloading the data to my computer, and then embedding that into the scan file.
Well I am loving this F6 so much I bought a second super clean one with a "nikon USA" sticker inside the flip down door, and sent this one off to nikon USA service for a refresh, new internal battery and asked for the non-ais lens mod. They gave me a quote for all of this at $285, so I hope they still can get the parts to do all of this.
What developer are you using for the FOMA 400? It's odd that the developer is seldom mentioned in these discussions.Yeah, with Foma 400 I process normally - no change to anything. But expose it at ISO 200. Comes out great. If I do all that but expose at 400, it comes out flat and murky.
It's weird though, because Foma 200 comes out great exposed at ISO 200!
Yeah, with Foma 400 I process normally - no change to anything. But expose it at ISO 200. Comes out great. If I do all that but expose at 400, it comes out flat and murky.
It's weird though, because Foma 200 comes out great exposed at ISO 200!
Foma says the 400 can be overexposed by 1 EV (ISO 200) or underexposed by as much as to 2 EV (ISO 1600) without any change in processing.
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