Bluish cast on corners

[Jari Gee]

Hi,

I've done C-41 for about one year. Quite often there is bluish cast on the corners with lot of grain. Developing time is 8 min at 30 C. Agitation is 1-2 inversions per minute. Is it too much?. I made the scan with 2 different scanning software so it could not depend on that.

Jari

 

[Photo Engineer]

Unless the Kodak and Fuji process is adhered to, which you are not, then it is difficult to diagnose a problem. The films are only designed for one condition.

PE

 

[jim10219]

It's hard to say without looking at the negatives, but my guess is what you're seeing is vignetting by the lens, and not a development issue. It would be hard for roll film to develop problems in the corners of the images through development alone.

 

[Jari Gee]

I posted the link.

Jari

 

[Photo Engineer]

But the link is dead!

 

[Jari Gee]

 

[Sirius Glass]

I see ski in at least two corners, and that should be blue.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Well, it appears to be uneven development in high negative density areas. One could expect this in such a process. OTOH, it could be too little agitation.

PE

 

[Jari Gee]

Ok.

Then should I add couple of inversions per minute and should get out of that problem?

Jari

 

[koraks]

I would certainly increase agitation. Or, while your at it, increase the temperature to 37.8C and develop for 3m15 with constant agitation, but that wouldn't be very adventurous, would it?

 

[Sirius Glass]

When all else fails with C-41 processing, one will find that following directions actually works.

 

[Jari Gee]

It is not for adventerous reasons that I develop the film at 30. I it is much harder to keep the temperature constant at 38 than it is in 30. I dont have fancy equipment for that. Just pouring about 35 deg water to the sink and let it cool to about 30,5 and then start to develop. But maybe I will try next time. One guy suggested me that 8 min dev and i have since been processing like that.

Jari

 

[Truzi]

I did okay my first time with low-tech water tempering. I used a cooler, decent thermometer, and an aquarium heater. The heater is the analog style with a dial. I pulled the dial off and repositioned it on the rheostat so I the little limiter (a plastic stop) didn't stop me from raising the heat. I then tested and adjusted until I was able to maintain the temperature I wanted. It's a long process to make sure the temperature is stable. I just set it up, left it alone a few hours, adjusted, etc., until I was confident of the setup. When I finally processed, I made sure the conditions were exactly the same as my tests. Changing the cooler, for example, can throw everything off.

It wasn't the best and most accurate way, but it worked well enough for my first times.