Blix vs separate bleach and fixer

[BySumbergsStache]

Other than the increased longevity of a separate mixture, are there any picture quality differences between the two? If the separate mix is better, where can I buy the required chemicals? I use a Patterson tank and I'm having a lot of trouble making heads or tails of which Kodak Flexacolor chemicals I need.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

There should be no difference in quality between using a blix and a separate bleach and fix system. They both achieve the same result. Neither system is better or worse than the other.

The blix was designed to be the safest alternative to more conventional bleaches. This was done not only for the safety of the user but also the environment.

If you have trouble understanding the Flexicolor chemicals then you should not contemplate mixing your own bleach. The chemicals used can be dangerous. You first need to understand what happens when processing C-41 film. Then carefully read the MSDS for every chemical used in the process.

 

[Photo Engineer]

For C41 and E6 processing, there is an advantage to a separate bleach and fix. The bleach must be very strong in order to remove all of the silver. If it is not, then grain increases and color quality decreases. Also, the blix shelf life is very short.

Therefore I use Bleach III or later and Flexicolor fix for C41. E6 requires a special bleach and fix.

PE

 

[bvy]

If you're in the States, the Kodak Flexicolor Processing Unit F2 is available from Unique Photo for $30 to $40 and includes a bladder of bleach (use as is) and fixer (use 1+1 with water). See the color chemicals sticky for more info.

 

[Rudeofus]

A while back I wrote (there was a url link here which no longer exists) about BLIX vs. bleach&fix, and how to convert a BLIX kit into a batch of chemicals that provide separate bleach and fixer.

 

[JOR]

For C41 and E6 processing, there is an advantage to a separate bleach and fix. The bleach must be very strong in order to remove all of the silver. If it is not, then grain increases and color quality decreases. Also, the blix shelf life is very short.

As photo engineer states, separate bleach and fix is preferred. The coupled dyes produced in the (colour) developer continue to build in EDTA bleach.
When bleach and fix are mixed, this effect is slowed and storage becomes a problem. The mixture oxidises and the two components begin to react together. By the time sulphur begins to precipitate, the solution is useless. On its own, brown EDTA bleach has a virtually indefinite lifespan but, paradoxically, must be aerated before use (shake the half-empty container for a few minutes). Note that the process instructions assume that the bleach and fix will be used at 38°C - immerse for at least twice as long at 20°C.
C-41 and E-6 fix have a lifespan similar to B&W fix. Although they are chemically similar, C-41 and E-6 bleach and fix should not be swapped.
For stable negatives and slides, use the appropriate final bath or stabilizer in the recommended procedure. Avoid frothing and leave to drip dry - do not squeegee.
I have Ektachrome transparencies processed by hand in E-6 chemistry from about 1978. They were mounted in glass. I bought a 1958 6x6cm slide projector a month ago and the images are still excellent.

 

[trythis]

If you're in the States, the Kodak Flexicolor Processing Unit F2 is available from Unique Photo for $30 to $40 and includes a bladder of bleach (use as is) and fixer (use 1+1 with water). See the color chemicals sticky for more info.

Please provide a link. There are many confusing option there.

 

[BySumbergsStache]

I'm sorry, I'm still a little confused. Are you saying that if I purchase the Flexacolor F1 and F2 kits, I will be able to processes C41 film in a Patterson tank no problem? The chemical quantities looks very small, how are they supposed to last 200+ rolls? Is there any documentation that comes with the F1 and F2 kits? The Unique Photo description is shockingly sparse.

 

[bvy]

Here's my link from last summer. The only thing that's changes is that the price of the F2 unit went up slightly. (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

The F1 and F2 units aren't manufactured or marketed for home use, so you'll have to take my word for it. What little documentation I found suggests the bleach is used straight and the fixer mixed 1+1 with water, and this has worked fine for me. I don't use the F1 unit but just order the developer replenisher and starter as shown in my link. This makes roughly 6.5 liters of working strength developer. I develop one shot (or two shot) so I can't speak to volume. Others reuse the developer till it's pooped, so I suppose you could develop 100 or more rolls with that much solution. Keep in mind when doing your cost analysis that you won't use all of the starter and can use it for the next several times.