• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Bleaching Prints

Andrew
I stopped using the Kodak kits a few years ago and mix from scratch now thanks to Ian.
 
G

Yes, but the problem is I want to brighten the highlights before I go to the toning stage. otherwise I make my prints too brown by toning right after the bleach.
therefore the first bleach to lift the highlights without affecting the blacks.

Guillaume Zuili said:
Hi Bob,
I often do this selenium/bleach/sepia. You don't need to fix because you go to sepia.
If you just do selenium and bleach, then you fix and wash.
Z.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Ian.
I plan to make a complete edition of 11x14 AP's before I get to the small edition set.
I have a show in Feb that I want to nail the print look before hand.
I am planning to try Ilford matte as this is a great paper for the look I am trying to achieve, this paper tones lovely.


thanks every one for the advice/help.


Ian Grant said:
Sounds logical. Changing the sequence will change the look, it's more about being consistent.

Ian
Click to expand...
 
Here are a couple a d** sample's of the look i am trying to achieve.
 

Attachments

  • S3.jpg
    205.5 KB · Views: 255
  • twin1.jpg
    158.2 KB · Views: 285

Ian

At first, I thought this made sense, but after doing a test last night, I'm starting to doubt it. I compared the two methods on two identical step-tablet prints, and there is absolutely no visible difference. I'll take some densitometer measurements as soon as I get to it. Maybe that will show a difference.
 
I am going with 30grams to 10 litre as suggested , made the prints and now I will do the bleach and report back . I have made five fairly identical 11x14 of one neg on three different papers, Ilford mg4matte and gloss and Ilford warmtone.
I hope to tri tone tommorow and will let you all know how I feel after this.

thanks to all.

 
The reversibility of a ferri/bromide bleach is a godsend. Knowing you have a fall-back strategy frees you. Bleaching can be very finicky, and easy to overdo; the second chance the bromide gives you is an insurance policy.
 
is there no need to refixing using Farmers Reducer? just proceed with normal washing?
 
Does anyone here bleach as a standard part of their print process?

There's a great Seattle area photographer who's known for "printing down, and bleaching up."

www.jerrygay.com

(He won himself a Pulitzer too, btw)
 
StigHagen said:
can I mix parts of the package, or is it nescessary to mix it all at once?
Click to expand...

Mix potassium ferricyanide and fixer only as needed, as the mixture has a very low shelve life. That's why I never buy Farmers Reducer. I just buy the potassium ferricyanide, prepare a 1% solution and mix it with fixer as needed or use them in sequence.
 
Yes
a lot of printers , myself included would do this to lift the highlights.
MMfoto said:
Does anyone here bleach as a standard part of their print process?

There's a great Seattle area photographer who's known for "printing down, and bleaching up."

www.jerrygay.com

(He won himself a Pulitzer too, btw)
Click to expand...
 
Ferricyanide stock

Will Potassium Ferricyanide keep as a stock solution, in a brown glass bottle?

I make a 10% Potassium Bromide solution. Could I do the same with the ferri?

Thanks!
 
Marco
I mix and dump each time, Nymoc will sell the chems in larger containers and it is pretty cheap, the sulphide as well.

Marco Buonocore said:
Will Potassium Ferricyanide keep as a stock solution, in a brown glass bottle?

I make a 10% Potassium Bromide solution. Could I do the same with the ferri?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Marco Buonocore said:
Will Potassium Ferricyanide keep as a stock solution, in a brown glass bottle?

I make a 10% Potassium Bromide solution. Could I do the same with the ferri?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

From what I can tell, it lasts for a long time (years). I usually make a 1% solution with distilled water, but anyway, dry potassium ferricyanide keeps for decades.
 
Ian Grant said:
Storing such a weak solution distilled is better, however it's more normal to store as a 10% solution, and it all depends on how pure your tap water is if you don't use deionised or distilled water.

Ian
Click to expand...

So you store it in 10% solution and then everytime you need to bleach you mix some of it to make a more dilute solution? The more dilute solution to you discard it after use or can it be saved for a prolonged time?

I have som very dilute solution I mixed a year ago and Im still using it. Is that a problem?
 
I keep 10% ferricyanide and 3.5% potassium bromide solutions on hand and mix equal amounts of them with differing amounts of water to make working solutions of a rehalogenating bleach. The stronger, the faster acting. It's easy to start weak and work up.

I use small amounts of working solution, so I toss it after use (for example, if I have just a few highlights to do on a print, I start with 10ml of water with 10-20 drops of each stock solution). A liter each of stock lasts a long time

My stock solutions here in Vienna are going on 6 years and doing fine still.

BTW, I use the same bleach for SLIMT contractions and for bleach-redevelopment of negatives when I need that.

Best,

Doremus Scudder
www.DoremusScudder.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register