Bleach contamination in Ilfocolor C41 kit (and C41 kits in general)

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Hi all,

After much planning, procrastination and acquisition of kit, I finally dipped my toe into C41 development over the weekend. And by "dipped", I mean I blasted through the 12-roll backlog of undeveloped rolls that have been sitting in my fridge for far too long. To my genuine surprise, it all seems to have gone well. There's some pretty dark brown strips from various 20+ year expired rolls of NPH400 and Porta 400NC, as to be expected, but the fresh stuff looks good and everything has images on it. Proof will be in the scanning when I get to that, but it appears there's been no major failures in the development itself.

My question relates cross contamination of chemicals, particularly of the bleach into the fixer and stabiliser. I'm using the Ilford Ilfocolor C41 kit, which (along with the ECN2 and E6 kits) are about the only reliably available chemicals here in Australia currently, though weirdly they don't seem to be talked about much elsewhere in the world ie. few reviews/videos on it. Apparently they're the same as the Jobo C41 chems and rumour has it both are based on the well known/loved Fuji Hunt 5L kits... though whether that's just because both originate from Japan and the bottles look kinda similar, I'm not sure.

Anyhoo, the instructions from Ilford (which can be found here, btw https://ilfocolor.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/ILFORD-ILFOCOLOR_TDS_C41_english_11_23_v3.pdf - for some reason they don't include in them in the kit itself, thankfully my local retailer emailed them through) state a 5:00 min water prewash/prewarm, then colour dev, then bleach, then fix, then a 1:00min wash, then stabiliser.

I dutifully did as directed and on the first roll saw my fixer turn a lovely shade of pink/evil blackcurrent cordial. A quick search here and elsewhere revealed that a water wash after the bleach is typical/recommended for most kits (makes sense) to keep as much bleach out of the subsequent steps and protect the fixer. I added two washes of 38*C water after bleach in the subsequent processing runs, which seemed to work well, though obviously the damage was done for this batch of chemicals.

Fortunately I only mixed up a third of a kit (a little over 800mL working solution, using about 600mL to comfortably fill a fully loaded 1540 drum with 3-4 rolls) to cover the film I had ready to go with minimal waste (Ilford reckon the 2.5L is good for 40 rolls), so they're spent and will be disposed off shortly.

I am a bit curious/concerned though about future batches though, as I'll want to extend the life of the working solutions as much as possible. This old thread https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/rinse-steps-in-c-41-development.199420/ seems to hint at both washing stages after dev AND bleach being desirable/necessary for rotary/inversion processing where you're not one-shot-ing chems. Getting as much usable life is obviously desirable... the kits aren't cheap and for 35mm at least my local lab is quite economical for dev only. It's unlikely I'll be in a position to bash through so many rolls in 24 hours again, so while I'm fully aware colour developer especially isn't very long lived, I'm hoping to get a couple of weeks, maybe more, with careful storage and keeping each stage as clean as possible.

I guess my real question is: what's a realistic best practice for home C41 development, to get the most value out of your typical chemical kit without unduly risking subpar results?

As an aside and a complete noob question: is substantial darkening of the developer typical after each batch? After a dozen rolls it was approaching the darkness of the bleach. The 5:00 min prewash revealed all manner of colouration when dumped, so I'm a little surprised... I've always prewashed my black and white film to preserve the dev (Microphen currently) for reuse, a little darkening over the 10 roll-lifespan is typical, but nothing like this. Just a C41 thing?

Cheers, Ben.
 

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mshchem

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Bleach carry over into the fixer should be OK as long as you don't try and store the fixer too long. Back when Eastman Kodak was selling 1 gallon and later 5 liter kits a wash after bleach was recommended IIRC. Fuji sells a universal fixer that is cheap. In your market you are probably getting a re-labled Fuji product?? not sure where Ilford branded (not Harman) is getting these kits assembled.

Developer will get dark with use.

I use developer and fixer one shot and replenish the bleach using a Jobo.

It's probably cheaper to pay a lab to develop your C-41 . But that's no fun!!!
 

mshchem

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Your darkroom setup looks great. I learned the hard way about film squeegees, (that red devil hiding on your shelf) 😁
 
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benderscameracorner
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Bleach carry over into the fixer should be OK as long as you don't try and store the fixer too long. Back when Eastman Kodak was selling 1 gallon and later 5 liter kits a wash after bleach was recommended IIRC. Fuji sells a universal fixer that is cheap. In your market you are probably getting a re-labled Fuji product?? not sure where Ilford branded (not Harman) is getting these kits assembled.

Developer will get dark with use.

I use developer and fixer one shot and replenish the bleach using a Jobo.

It's probably cheaper to pay a lab to develop your C-41 . But that's no fun!!!

Thanks for the clarifications. In this case the carry over into the fixer didn't seem to be an issue as I exhausted the working solution within about 24 hrs, but definitely something I want to avoid in the future.

The kits are marked Ilford Japan Co. Ltd, definitely part of the remaining Ilford Imaging GmbH rather than UK, film-producing Harman Technology. The labels on the bottles themselves have a very homemade inkjet printer feel about them, does give very "hastily rebadged Fuji chemicals" vibes. The word from the retailers here it was brought to market to fill the gap left by Tetenal's departure. Pickings are slimmer here than in the USA/Canada, we don't get FlicFilm, Arista, etc. A few places have been selling Bellini kits ($$$) and of course CineStill's offerings are supposedly available, but they always seem to be out of stock.

Yeah, the economics are borderline between home dev and local lab for 35mm C41, really need to milk the kit for all its worth to justify the extra time, cost of power/distilled water/gear, etc. However they can't push/pull with their minilab (I have a few rolls of Phoenix left that I'm keen to pull -1, seems to get the most out of it) , and any other format or process costs a lot more, needs to be sent off out of town or interstate with a long turnaround. Much easier to justify for 120 film.

There's also a potential quality gain... not to rag too hard on my local but it's common my negs come back with minor water staining and other marks on them from their machine. I should hold judgement until I scan and check my own work, but I'm kinda hoping I can do better myself.

Your darkroom setup looks great. I learned the hard way about film squeegees, (that red devil hiding on your shelf) 😁

Thanks :smile: It's actually my laundry but the ratio of darkroom gear to laundry stuff is about 2:1 ;-) Works OK but I'm hoping the next house will get a dedicated darkroom in due course.

Ah yes, I'm yet to find a squeegee that doesn't like leaving a long scratch down the length of your film, no matter how wet it is or gentle you are with it! Both the Jobo and Paterson ones all seem to do it. Painting out water spots in Lightroom is far more tolerable.
 

gbroadbridge

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Hi all,

I dutifully did as directed and on the first roll saw my fixer turn a lovely shade of pink/evil blackcurrent cordial. A quick search here and elsewhere revealed that a water wash after the bleach is typical/recommended for most kits (makes sense) to keep as much bleach out of the subsequent steps and protect the fixer. I added two washes of 38*C water after bleach in the subsequent processing runs, which seemed to work well, though obviously the damage was done for this batch of chemicals.

I have the same kit (used to use Tetenal) and I rinse after every stage (using clean water from water bath itself)

Fortunately I only mixed up a third of a kit (a little over 800mL working solution, using about 600mL to comfortably fill a fully loaded 1540 drum with 3-4 rolls) to cover the film I had ready to go with minimal waste (Ilford reckon the 2.5L is good for 40 rolls), so they're spent and will be disposed off shortly.

Okay, So i mix up the full 2.5l, and store in 8 x 1.25 litre soft drink bottles.
I use the first set of 4 bottles until around 12-16 rolls (high speed film >= 400 depletes the dev faster)

Past experience tells me that the mixed chems will last easily 6 months as long as the bottle is tightly capped, stored cool and dark

I had failure in the past with half used stock solutions left in original bottles which is why I mix up the full kit.

I do a test strip with the developer before each run if the chems are over a month since last use.
I just leave a piece of film in the heated dev for 5 mins and it should go black, if not the developer is dead.

As an aside and a complete noob question: is substantial darkening of the developer typical after each batch? After a dozen rolls it was approaching the darkness of the bleach. The 5:00 min prewash revealed all manner of colouration when dumped, so I'm a little surprised... I've always prewashed my black and white film to preserve the dev (Microphen currently) for reuse, a little darkening over the 10 roll-lifespan is typical, but nothing like this. Just a C41 thing?

The dev goes pretty dark even with film pre-rinse, but works fine (until it fails)
 

mshchem

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Absolutely agree that storing the mixed, unused solutions in full soda bottles is the way to go. Splitting concentrates is tricky. I use my own RO water, I let it rest for a couple days before I use it to let (at least some) of the air come out of solution.

Buying distilled/purified water is worth every penny if your tap water is like mine.

I really enjoy developing film, printing too, but not as much as developing film.

Slide film is wonderful.

FWIW, the Fuji Frontier minilab machines I've seen using C-41RA use a two bath fix (Dev, Bleach, fix, fix, then 3 stabilizer/final rinse no running water wash) as long as your negatives are quite cleared shouldn't need two fix baths, I've never needed)

I always wash my film after fixing for 5 minutes in 35°C running tap water, and finally purified water with the Final Rinse. I just hang the film to dry, my darkroom stays around 20°C, I don't have a problem with spotting.
 
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benderscameracorner
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Absolutely agree that storing the mixed, unused solutions in full soda bottles is the way to go. Splitting concentrates is tricky. I use my own RO water, I let it rest for a couple days before I use it to let (at least some) of the air come out of solution.

Curious as to why this is the case - can you explain the science behind it? Or is it just what you've experienced in use? Obviously the manufacturer says otherwise - mixed chems oxidise faster than unmixed,

Splitting up the Dev Part C was a little involved for sure, but I have enough 10mL syringes at hand from past experiments with Rodinal stand dev to make it painless enough.

Going forward I'm actually thinking of splitting the kit in quarters (625ml) or even fifths (500ml) as they'll be a better match both my usage and the various 600ml Jobo-compatible bottles I have. It's also much easier to find glass bottles under 750ml in our local home brew suppliers for longer term (amber glass) storage.
 

mshchem

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Curious as to why this is the case - can you explain the science behind it? Or is it just what you've experienced in use? Obviously the manufacturer says otherwise - mixed chems oxidise faster than unmixed,

Splitting up the Dev Part C was a little involved for sure, but I have enough 10mL syringes at hand from past experiments with Rodinal stand dev to make it painless enough.

Going forward I'm actually thinking of splitting the kit in quarters (625ml) or even fifths (500ml) as they'll be a better match both my usage and the various 600ml Jobo-compatible bottles I have. It's also much easier to find glass bottles under 750ml in our local home brew suppliers for longer term (amber glass) storage.

Not sure I can explain why. I've split kits before and was successful, kinda. Until I found (E6 Tetenal kit) one of the 3 part color developer had embrittled the PET bottles and started leaking. On a positive, I used those carefully divided, concentrates, full bottles, topped with inert gas (this is extremely important) for a couple years.

The original manufacturers, at least Fuji, the Tetenal folks did, Adox does, understand the bottle thing. Very important, chemical resistance, gas permeability etc. Glass isn't always a answer, especially with alkaline solutions

Would need a PhD in physical chemistry before I could begin to understand all this.

On sizes, I divided my kits to make 625mL of working solution which worked perfectly with my Jobo machines.

In the US sports drinks like Gatorade are sold in these sizes, I used these bottles (PET) to store the working solutions, better than Jobo bottles for storage purposes (lower oxygen permeability)
 

gbroadbridge

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Ah yes, I'm yet to find a squeegee that doesn't like leaving a long scratch down the length of your film, no matter how wet it is or gentle you are with it! Both the Jobo and Paterson ones all seem to do it. Painting out water spots in Lightroom is far more tolerable.

The squeegee that works without scratches is the wetted index and second finger (encased in nitrile gloves for C41, bare for B&W) :smile:
 

koraks

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Curious as to why this is the case - can you explain the science behind it?
The developing agent itself is the one that oxidizes and thus dies. Another problem is that the small amount of sulfite in one of the other concentrates oxidizes into sulfate, affecting the behavior of the developer slightly, but that effect is overpowered by the former. To prevent oxidation of the developing agent, a C41 developer contains hydroxylamine sulfate (or similar). The problem is that this doesn't mix well with the developing agent in a concentrated solution, so the developing agent and its protector are shipped in two different bottles. Only once combined, the developing agent is actually protected as intended. As long as it's still a concentrate, the hermetic sealing of the bottle is the only thing that keeps the developing agent from deteriorating. This isn't a perfect protection as anyone can attest who has come across factory-sealed C41 kits several years old with the developer concentrate entirely oxidized. So in practice, what works best (IMO) is to mix all the developer at once and then store it into hermetically sealed containers (bottles, pouches) of a material with a near-zero permeability to oxygen: glass, certain types of polymer and certain polymer/metal laminates.
 
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benderscameracorner
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Only once combined, the developing agent is actually protected as intended. As long as it's still a concentrate, the hermetic sealing of the bottle is the only thing that keeps the developing agent from deteriorating.

Thanks - this makes perfect sense.

Time to rethink my bottle strategy... the local home brew guy's gonna love me!

"Whatchya brewing mate?"
"CD-4"
"Is that a new craft IPA?"

🤣
 
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