Blank film

[Shopingjs]

I developed Pan 100 in Rodinal (Foma R09 New), than fixed in Fomafix for about 15 minutes and the film was totally clear ! No numbers on edge, absolutely nothing. Is there any possibility to save the film ? Please

 

[M.A.Longmore]

.
First The Good News:
Welcome To APUG !

Now The Bad News:
No !

Ron
.

 

[removed account4]

no words/ markings on the edge of the film ?

after it has been developed and fixed ... and the film is clear
there is nothing you can do, but chalk it to experience

 

[dxqcanada]

What was your developer dilution ?

Are you sure you did not Fix it first before Developer ?

Put some mixed developer in a bowl ... take a piece of film and drop it in.
What happens ?

 

[Shopingjs]

Yeah, I know that something went wrong with Rodinal, I just wanna know if I can save the film. There was lots of good pictures.

Dilution was 1:50
No, I know I used developer, not fixer

I put Rodinal concentrate on paper, after 2 minutes, it was light grey

 

[Shopingjs]

Also, I looked into the bottle and saw this:

 

[M.A.Longmore]

.
Game Over !

It's A Harsh Hobby !

Try Again !

Ron
.

 

[Juri]

Yeah, I know that something went wrong with Rodinal, I just wanna know if I can save the film. There was lots of good pictures.

If the film is clear, then it means that the emulsion (in which the image was) has been just washed away. Now it's just a strip of plastic.

 

[Shopingjs]

Yeah, but when I lick the film, I get feel that the emulsion is still there

 

[Worker 11811]

The most common cause for this problem is that fixer was applied to the film before the latent image was developed.

Either the developer was somehow bad (expired, contaminated or improperly mixed) or else the fixer and developer have been applied in the wrong order. (e.g. Fixer was accidentally used first.)

Fixer removes all undeveloped silver halide from the film, making it no longer light-sensitive and, thus, there is probably nothing you can do to save the film.

As a test of your chemistry, take a strip of film a couple inches long and dunk it into a cupful of developer. You can do this in the light. The film should turn black in a short amount of time. If it does not turn black or if it takes a long time to turn black, your developer is bad.

While you are at it, test your fixer, too. Do the same test. Use undeveloped film. Just dunk it in a cupful of fixer. It should turn almost totally clear within a couple-three minutes.

If either of these test do not produce the expected results you have bad chemicals. Throw them out and get new.

If both of these test work as expected then you have probably mixed up the chemicals and have applied fixer before the developer.

Don't feel bad. Almost EVERYBODY makes this mistake one time.
You get distracted or you mix up the containers. It is a common mistake.

The best preventative is to label your containers and always arrange your chems in order of use.
I always premix and temper my chems to the proper temperature then set them out in order, dev - stop - fix - hypo clear, before I start working.
I won't say that I have never made this mistake but, since I started laying things out in order and sticking to it, I haven't made this mistake in a long time.

It's a mistake you only make once and you swear you'll never do it again... until it happens again!

 

[M.A.Longmore]

Yeah, but when I lick the film, I get feel that the emulsion is still there

.
Are we on one of them there hidden camera shows ?

I'm assuming that you are new to the photographic process ?
Don't be disappointed, we have all learned from our mistakes ...

Ron
.

 

[Shopingjs]

Well, not so new, about 3/4 of year

 

[Shopingjs]

What about physical developing ?
http://translate.google.cz/translat...hp?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=125962#125962

Well, I know that anything what can revive my film would be based on pure luck, but you know, I don't wanna lose my film

 

[Worker 11811]

Once fixer is applied all traces of latent image are literally dissolved away from the film.

It matters not whether the developer was bad or whether the fixer was applied before the developer. The result is the same: The film is screwed.

 

[Роберт]

The fact you have used a half year old Fomadon R09 NEW, which is Rodinal type, Para-Amino Phenol you can be sure the developer was active. With a complete blank film, even without any markers it's almost for sure you swapped the chemical process. Fix first then the developer.

The best way to prevent these type of mistakes is to color code your bottles: Green developer, Red stop, Yellow fixer, Blue water.

Unfortunately you can not save the negatives anymore. R09 one shot (Rodinal) or Fomadon R09 New is a very reliable developer like HC-110 it's almost impossible to have an inactive (oxidized) product. These type of concentrated developers can survive years.....

 

[Shopingjs]

Well, that's sad. Now I wanna time machine !

 

[M.A.Longmore]

Well, not so new, about 3/4 of year

.
You're New !!!

I've been trying for thirty five years ... I'm kinda new.
Keep us updated about The Time Machine, lots of mistakes to be corrected !

Ron
.

 

[chioque]

It looks more than likely your Rodinal is bad. So in effect when you mixed the Rodinal and develop your film with it, you were only doing a pre-wash. Then when fixing, all the silver was diluted by the fixer. Nothing you can do at all.

If you are successful with the time machine, appreciate if you would share your discovery here

 

[Роберт]

Yeah, dobry den.
Only a time machine can save your negatives. Even an intensifier based on Silver Nitrate will not work because you do not have even a faint image.

I am very sorry even I can not help you out with over 42 years experience in film development.

Just a tip: Try the Fomapan 100 (E.I. 80) in your Fomadon R09 (Rodinal type) developer. It's a very nice combination. The T200 (Creative 200) also, if you do not mint a bit grain and expose it on E.I. 125.

Dilution 1+50 will give sharp negatives, a bit semi-compensating and with a minimum of agitation you will reduce the grain a bit too.

Na shledanou,

Роберт

 

[Роберт]

It looks more than likely your Rodinal is bad

1/2 years old R09?

No forget it unless you added an Acid to your bottle of concentrated R09.

Роберт

 

[Shopingjs]

I spoke with guy and he said this (translated): Well, I didn't tried it, but if you fixed film in rapidfixer (rapidfixer - thiosíran amonný)
It works on this principle: fixing in neutral fixer and then developing in special developer, then can be now or after year, it doesn't matter
I'm not saying it will help, but it's the only hope how to rescue the film, otherwise you can just throw it away.
Sorry, I don't have enough time to translate the recipe:

roztok A:
Metol 10 g
Cemicky čistá kyselina citrónová 50 g
dest voda 500 ml

Rortok B:
Dusičnan strieborný 2 g
dest voda 20 ml

Vývojka sa pripraví tesne pred vyvolávaním zmiešaním 100 ml A+ 1 ml roztoku B, to je na dosku 9x12, predpokladam, že sa jedná o kinofilm, treba prepočítať plochu a podľa toho upraviť množstvo vývojky. Bacha na čistotu tanku či nádob, a nepoužívať žiadne kovové nástroje.
Jedná sa vlastne o fyzikálne vyvolávanie, ak to bude fungovať, tak sa prvé náznaky objavia až za 20 - 30 minút. Vyvoláva sa pri normálnom osvetlení, film musí byť poriadne vypraný, aspoň hodinu v tečúcej vode, po vyvolaní sa oplachne destilovanou vodou a usuší.

Ešte raz podotýkam, že sa jedná len o pokus, film pre fyzikálne vyvolávanie má byť desaťkrát preexponovaný, takže ak to bude fungovať, tak môže vyvolávanie trvať aj dve hodiny. Film by mal byť nedostižne jemnozrný.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

No, No, No! A completely blank film indicates that someway, somehow the film was fixed before it was developed. The only developer that can comepletely lose its activity is Xtol. Rodinal, even when it is very old and improperly stored, will still produce some detail. The image may be very weak but there is something there.

 

[Shopingjs]

No, No, No ! I'm totally sure that it WAS developed and THEN fixed ! It was yesterday, I still remember it.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Do a spot test with the rodinal and a piece of film or paper. Then post again with the results.

 

[Роберт]

No problem to provide you in Havirov (Cz):

Solution A:
Metol 10 g (Metol)
Cemicky čistá kyselina citrónová 50 g (Citric Acid )

Solution B:
Dusičnan strieborný 2 g (Silver Nitrate)

and I suppose the destilled water (dest voda 500 ml) you have or can buy.

But because you have no image at all, this won't work either.

If you're 100% sure about your sequence of development your working solution Rodinal must gone bad. You're sure you made it just before starting development? Or maybe you had a severe contamination in this bottle. But believe me even with contaminated Rodinal you will have a faint picture and then the whole film has a higher base fog too.

So again, very sorry your film is lost.