Well my post wasn't directed at anything you had said but to juan whose one liner and the mention of help did not seem to address UKbob's problem. Unless of course, as I said, it was simply to show that such chemicals are easily obtained in his area of the U.S. even in all purpose hardware stores That's fine of course but it did not appear to be of much help to UKbobPerhaps my comment was too far off topic.
I’m saying that even in my small town borax and sodium hydroxide are readily available
TF2 is the only fixer I use. I make it up myself and always follow the recipe, adding chems in order. The reason I don't go to a different/newer alkaline fixer is because I have about 25lbs. of kodalk (sodium metaborate) on hand and might as well make use of it. Besides, TF2 does everything I want it to do.
Yes, I just made a fresh batch. It will probably be the only fixer I will use for the rest of my life on this planet. Simple to make, simple to use and works just fine for all of what I do.Curious if you are still using TF2. I'm looking at mixing my own fixer and have the chemistry needed to do TF2. I'm looking for a fixer that is easy to mix, use, and store for reuse on bw film development.
Yes, I just made a fresh batch. It will probably be the only fixer I will use for the rest of my life on this planet. Simple to make, simple to use and works just fine for all of what I do.
In Kodalk substitution using hydroxide and borax in the Kodak formulary book I have, it says to dissolve the hydroxide separately in cold water and and then add it to the solution before the borax is added.Alan,
can you please confirm for me that all I have to do for TF-2 is add and mix into the water, Sodium thiosulphate, Sodium sulphite, then Borax and finally Sodium hydroxide.
No need to mix the Borax and Sodium hydroxide separately in their own water ? Just add them dry ?
I might be reading to much into your answer to juan.
Thankyou.
In Kodalk substitution using hydroxide and borax in the Kodak formulary book I have, it says to dissolve the hydroxide separately in cold water and and then add it to the solution before the borax is added.
I'm not sure how important it is to add the hydroxide first.
Too bad they don't put that on the bottles of drain cleaner around here.Eye protection, nitrile gloves, a good lab apron and breathing protection are pretty much mandatory when handling this kind of stuff,
Too bad they don't put that on the bottles of drain cleaner around here.
In all seriousness, it's good to be careful, but there's no need to exaggerate. Handling small amounts of sodium hydroxide (i.e. up to a few hundred grams) isn't particularly tricky. Don't get it into your eyes, that's all.
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