Best way to clean my reels?

[Aurelien]

Hi all,

usually, I have no problem with film developping. But these times, I have big problem with developing my 120 films. There are lots of developping zone on the edges of films, and there are marks on films. Well, I think that marks are temperature problem, but this is solved now.
But the developping zones may be due to dirty reels. I always wash them after a development, but when I looked inside, I saw lots of silver dust ...
So my question is: what is your best way to clean your reels?
I usually use teeth washing tablet, but there are not so efficient to dissolve and discard the silver dust.

Help

 

[PHOTOTONE]

I have never washed a reel, other than a rinse after processing, and I have never had reel-related processing issues. Are your reels metal or plastic? On stainless-steel spiral reels there really is no area for sediment to collect. Perhaps it is your agitation technique?

 

[Aurelien]

They are Paterson Plastic reels.
No I don't think it is due to agitation... cause I tried lots of things and always the same problem.

 

[archphoto]

Thats why I use steel reels.....
I would try a toothbrush with some toothpaste, if you can't reach into the corners far enough, use a tooth-pick.

Chlorine could do the trick but is hazardess, because any left will destroy your film !!!!!!!

 

[jonjameshall]

I have had problems in the past with the plastic paterson reels...

My issue has been with film getting stuck when making up the tank (sticky reels) I found that its caused by storage - you wash them after processing, but they acumilate dust and moisture when they are stored...

I find that washing them again in simple hot water, right before processing using a shower head (or any jet spray) and then using a hair dryer on them works wonders for my processing!

 

[Keith Tapscott.]

9 parts water + 1 part household bleach like Domestos works very well with plastic reels and tanks such as Paterson and Jobo. Fill the tank and agitate with this solution like you are processing films. After about 10 minutes, split the reels and use a tooth brush to remove any stubborn bits left, rinse well and dry. They will clean up like new. You might as well brush and clean the inside of the tank(s) as well.

 

[archphoto]

Next time you develop film: remember how you put the reel into the tank and rotate the reel so the film scoops the fluid, this will avoid that the emulsion contacts the plasic. (clockwise or anti-clockwise)

 

[Martin Aislabie]

I use Biological washing powder and hot water first - leave them to soak & agitate occasionally

Then as Keith says - household bleach & hot water - but I usually use a stronger sol'n than 1+9 - more like 1+4 - then soak & agitate occasionally.

Also again as per Keith - Toothbrush & Toothpaste/toothpowder for the stubborn bits in the grooves

Rinse very well with lots & lots of hot water

Martin

 

[Photo Engineer]

I have used hot water for over 50 years to wash reels and that is it, along with a soft brush.

PE

 

[marke]

I have used hot water for over 50 years to wash reels and that is it, along with a soft brush.

PE

That's all I do, and have never had a problem with my plastic reels.

 

[KEK]

I've had problems with photo flo residue in the past. I now keep a pail of warm water with bleach that I put the split reels in to soak and then use a toothbrush to fiinsh the cleaning. I let mine air dry and I'm ready to go.

 

[PhotoJim]

I think we've all had issues with the Photo-Flo residue.

A good question is, does it cause any harm?

When I've had issues with it, I haven't noticed any difference in my results, other than my developer being pretty foamy.

 

[ron110n]

Also if you use hardener, it may cause build-up on Paterson Reels, especially on the 2 BB pellets. I use Hot Water, Kaboom Bathroom cleaner and a tooth brush to wash my reels. I make sure the the two BB pellets are moving before I load in the bag.

 

[KEK]

In my case photo flo residue never harmed my film because I couldn't get it on the reel. There were more than a few times I'd have to put the roll of film in a changing bag until I washed all the reels. I'm pretty religious with the bleach and toothbrush now and haven't had a problem since.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Hardener should have no interaction in any way with Photo Flo or any other surfactant that I am aware of.

PE

 

[emeraldcity_grain]

A soak in warm water (100F) and a toothbrush has worked for me. Cleanup is part of the process for me. Be consistant with it.

 

[Anscojohn]

I use Bar Keeper's Friend.
When she is not around, I use a vegetable brush on a handle, with Bon Ami, preferably in the cake. (vbg) That's the cleaner, on very soft cloths, which the old lab rats used to clean ferrotype plates. Anyone remember ferrotype tins?

 

[trexx]

Anyone remember ferrotype tins?

Remember!? Heck, I still use them. Well not quite as intended. I have one mounted behind my sink for squeegeeing prints.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Hardener should have no interaction in any way with Photo Flo or any other surfactant that I am aware of.

PE

I ammend this with a comment.

There is a chance that sulfonic acid spreading agents such as used in dishwashing fluids could interact with alum hardeners in hardening fixes. IDK if this is the case for sure. I would have to test it.

But, since I don't reommend using dishwashing fluids......


PE

 

[Anscojohn]

Remember!? Heck, I still use them. Well not quite as intended. I have one mounted behind my sink for squeegeeing prints.

********
Ah, tradition.

 

[fotch]

I never have had problems with PhotoFlo or reels, plastic or stainless steel.

I rinse the reels in hot water and let dry.

For PhotoFlo, I remove the film from the reels, attach film clips, and seesaw the film in a bowl with PhotoFlo in a similar fashion to the way they use to develop film back in the day when reels/tanks were not common.

WFM

 

[mpirie]

We used to use sulphonic acid to clean the trays and tanks at the lab.

I don't know if it can be bought on the domestic market because it was viscous stuff!!

Mike