Best use of centre-weighted metering

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Guy S

Guy S

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We all do this when we get excited telling the story. Doremus Scudder just went the wrong way. You open, not close.

“The best scenario is to take a reading from the brightest area that you want to retain detail in, say white water or textured snow, and then close down two stops.”

Should be “open”.

Ahh of course
 

Bill Burk

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Meanwhile I often walk about with a camera that only has center weighted averaging.

I struggle to get correct auto exposure with the ES-II. Constantly checking indicated shutter speed to make sure it’s not stupidly wrong.

Scan-250522-0065.jpeg


Here it was exceeding max 1000 when I first brought the camera to my eye since there’s sky in the frame.

When the light throws off the meter I will go to manual. That’s 1000 to 60 and B (plus on self-timer ES-II gives one second on B). First check the indicated shutter speed with the stray light excluded, then use that manual setting and take some pictures without checking again.

The old “meter the palm and open a stop” trick often comes in handy.
 

Paul Howell

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Today while on my morning walk I took my Minolta 800SI and meter each scene with matrix, average, and spot mode, it was overcast, mid morning, just after 8:00 AM, there never more than a 1/2 stop difference between matrix and average. With the heavy overcast no strong backlighting. The largest difference was between average and spot metering, depending on where the spot circle fell on. With a 50mm lens the spot was around 10 to 12 degrees, had to make sure I was something that would between zone IV and VI, other up to 2 stops off.
 

Sirius Glass

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When I use digital I do not use the screen on the back of the Z7ii and I have not checked the bar graph yet.
 
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