Best mechanical 35mm analog SLR

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Well, for fully manual the simplest (and cheapest) ones giving acceptable quality that come to mind are:

Nikon - FM, FM2. These are their smallest, all-manual body and are really durable and reliable. You can use the F or F2 as well but they are a little bigger bodies. The lenses are top-notch, quality-wise, and plentiful and cheap, especially in the focal length you say you want.

Pentax - the venerable K1000! The MX or LX are wonderful too (and small) but a bit harder to find and likely a bit more pricey than this old reliable.

I don't know anything about Nikon cameras, but I have used a lot of Pentax cameras over the years, K1000, Spotmatic, KX, ME, ME-Super, etc They have all been extremely reliable, and I promise you that their lenses are second to none. I even did side by side shooting with a Leica M4-P with 50mm and 90mm Summicron and was disappointed to find no real advantage either sharpness or contrast wise. They are a fantastic value for money, even though the lenses have gone up in price if you want the largest aperture versions. But even so, $120 or so for a 50mm f/1.4 isn't bad. However, if you want an 85mm you're going to be paying a lot for it; their second hand value is extremely high. Instead I use the 100mm f/2.8 and love it so much that I'm not even looking to the 85mm. Much less expensive.
There is an 85mm f/1.9 with the M42 thread fitting for the Spotmatic, but honestly I am not sure that it would be wise to invest too much money in such an old camera system. Opinions vary. I love the KX models I'm currently using, and service can still be had by factory trained experts that now have private businesses.

If you check out www.keh.com and look for a good K1000 and a good 50mm f/1.7 you can get away with getting a fine camera for under $200.

And, if you buy a newer camera, all the way up to their newest digital SLRs, their K-mount lenses fit all of their cameras. Even the M42 screw mount lenses can be used with the correct adapter. That is what I call backwards compatibility.

Good luck!

- Thomas

 

[Ralph Javins]

Good morning, Baachitraka;

OK. You did say "the best fully mechanical." I will share my prejudices.

Unfortunately, as others have also indicated; there are no mechanically operated cameras that will take EF lenses. So, which way do we go?

If you choose to keep the Canon EF lenses (good glass), then you need to accept that you will need a Canon EOS camera body that will require a battery.

If you choose to follow "the best fully mechanical" line in your requirements, then things open up quite a bit.

At this time, I would suggest either a Nikkormat/Nikomat FT, FTn, or FT2 with the Copal Square Vertical Travel Metal Focal Plane Shutter that is disgustingly accurate, or the Nikon F or F2 Series, all of which will take the commonly available and numerous NIKKOR lenses that are still relatively inexpensive at this time. The Nikon F does have the inconvenience of the removable back when changing film, while the Nikon F2 has the more common and convenient hinge mounted swing-open back, but with that one exception, they are basically the same. The main difference between the Nikkormat/Nikomat and the Nikon F/F2 is the interchangeable pentaprism capability of the F/F2. If the standard pentaprism viewfinder is acceptable to you, then that Copal Square Shutter may be the way to go with the Nikon line. I can just about use the Copal Square to check the accuracy of my camera shutter testing equipment; the Kyoritsu EF-511NK1, the portable ZTS TesterPro, et cetera.

Regardless of what camera you choose to get, hand it to a camera technician for a CLA when you receive it. This additional investment (yes, that is what it is) will insure that your camera will continue to function reliably for you for several more years of normal amateur use. A CLA is probably the cheapest insurance policy that you will ever buy for photography.

Please note that this recommendation is coming from a man who is known for his stable of Minolta SLR and Rangefinder camera bodies, and many ROKKOR lenses. However, I also admit to having all of the Nikon camera bodies mentioned, and among them, I think that the F2 is the most versatile and I do like the F2AS, but the Nikkormat/Nikomat bodies do have that Copal Square Shutter.

It is not an easy decision, is it?

 

[Les Sarile]

No doubt that in choosing any used precision equipment, there is no accounting for previous user so make sure you have some remedies available to you.

Of course, some of these mechanical marvels can be fixed to like new unlike those with anything electronics. From my own collection, I can attest to the fine qualities of these well made light tight boxes as shown below. All of these are "mechanical" and except for the 1957 Pentax and 1959 Nikon F, all have meters. All can function - except for the light meter, without batteries. The newer they are, the less mechanical shutter speeds available except the 2001 Nikon FM3A that have all shutter speeds available without batteries. Next is the 1980 Pentax LX, 1975 Pentax K2 and 1973 Pentax ESII that have most shutter speeds available without batteries. The 1972 Olympus OM-1 was the first smallest 35mm SLR that was superseded by the 1976 Pentax MX - both have the largest viewfinders! There are others here with only a couple of mechanical shutter speeds available when battery is exhausted. Each have their technical, ergonomic or aesthetic qualities that make them best but all in all they were all built to last a few lifetimes.

Please understand that there are considerable number of other outstanding cameras that I don't personally have (yet) and can not show here!

Larger size version -> Mechanical Metal Cameras

 

[holmburgers]

awesome Les, that's what I'm talking about...

 

[Grainy]

I love my Pentax KX, fantastic camera. Fully mechanichal, compact and durable design, reliable, high quality lenses and cheap. I use 35mm f/2 and 50mm f/1.7. I also have Spotmatic with screwmount wich I use from time to time, but my KX is first choice.

 

[baachitraka]

Good morning, Baachitraka;

OK. You did say "the best fully mechanical." I will share my prejudices.

Unfortunately, as others have also indicated; there are no mechanically operated cameras that will take EF lenses. So, which way do we go?

If you choose to keep the Canon EF lenses (good glass), then you need to accept that you will need a Canon EOS camera body that will require a battery.

If you choose to follow "the best fully mechanical" line in your requirements, then things open up quite a bit.

At this time, I would suggest either a Nikkormat/Nikomat FT, FTn, or FT2 with the Copal Square Vertical Travel Metal Focal Plane Shutter that is disgustingly accurate, or the Nikon F or F2 Series, all of which will take the commonly available and numerous NIKKOR lenses that are still relatively inexpensive at this time. The Nikon F does have the inconvenience of the removable back when changing film, while the Nikon F2 has the more common and convenient hinge mounted swing-open back, but with that one exception, they are basically the same. The main difference between the Nikkormat/Nikomat and the Nikon F/F2 is the interchangeable pentaprism capability of the F/F2. If the standard pentaprism viewfinder is acceptable to you, then that Copal Square Shutter may be the way to go with the Nikon line. I can just about use the Copal Square to check the accuracy of my camera shutter testing equipment; the Kyoritsu EF-511NK1, the portable ZTS TesterPro, et cetera.

Regardless of what camera you choose to get, hand it to a camera technician for a CLA when you receive it. This additional investment (yes, that is what it is) will insure that your camera will continue to function reliably for you for several more years of normal amateur use. A CLA is probably the cheapest insurance policy that you will ever buy for photography.

Please note that this recommendation is coming from a man who is known for his stable of Minolta SLR and Rangefinder camera bodies, and many ROKKOR lenses. However, I also admit to having all of the Nikon camera bodies mentioned, and among them, I think that the F2 is the most versatile and I do like the F2AS, but the Nikkormat/Nikomat bodies do have that Copal Square Shutter.

It is not an easy decision, is it?

Definitely it is not going to be an easy decision, but a very wise recommendation indeed.

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

My own prejudices:
If you want the best viewfinder (yes, much better than Olympus OM) and a very dampened shutter and mirror (comparison with OMs depends more on how recently they've been CLA'd), go for a Leicaflex SL or SL2.
You also get a spot meter and some lenses that tend to be better than the better known brands.
Despite what Leica haters/bashers say, they are now *not* that expensive, especially if you shop wisely (a Leicaflex SL might cost around the price of a Nikon FM3a).

If you settle for lesser viewfinders and dampening, then the manual Nikons 80% of the posts mentioned, the Pentaxes (I muich prefer the K2 or KM to the K1000) or the Olympuses can be very good choices.

Maybe you should look at lenses first (which FLs and for what) and then the body might follow...
For example, if you'll practically only use a 50mm (or other single FL) then a Pentax Spotmatic could be a great choice.

About Soviet Leica copies, they *can* be quite good if gotten from reliable sources and/or CLA'd. Otherwise they are "Russian roulette"...
If you are considering rangefinders, that opens a whole new can of worms...

 

[baachitraka]

I am thinking to experiment at 35mm focal length with black-and-white film. I will happy to find any lens for low-light(F <= 2.0).

I have shortlisted

- Nikon F2AS
- Nikon FM2
- Nikon FM3a

- Canon AE-1(Do not know, whether it is mechanical.)

Please help by filling other good cameras from Olympus, Pentax or any known good brand.

My own prejudices:
If you want the best viewfinder (yes, much better than Olympus OM) and a very dampened shutter and mirror (comparison with OMs depends more on how recently they've been CLA'd), go for a Leicaflex SL or SL2.
You also get a spot meter and some lenses that tend to be better than the better known brands.
Despite what Leica haters/bashers say, they are now *not* that expensive, especially if you shop wisely (a Leicaflex SL might cost around the price of a Nikon FM3a).

If you settle for lesser viewfinders and dampening, then the manual Nikons 80% of the posts mentioned, the Pentaxes (I muich prefer the K2 or KM to the K1000) or the Olympuses can be very good choices.

Maybe you should look at lenses first (which FLs and for what) and then the body might follow...
For example, if you'll practically only use a 50mm (or other single FL) then a Pentax Spotmatic could be a great choice.

About Soviet Leica copies, they *can* be quite good if gotten from reliable sources and/or CLA'd. Otherwise they are "Russian roulette"...
If you are considering rangefinders, that opens a whole new can of worms...

 

[baachitraka]

My own prejudices:
If you want the best viewfinder (yes, much better than Olympus OM) and a very dampened shutter and mirror (comparison with OMs depends more on how recently they've been CLA'd), go for a Leicaflex SL or SL2.
You also get a spot meter and some lenses that tend to be better than the better known brands.
Despite what Leica haters/bashers say, they are now *not* that expensive, especially if you shop wisely (a Leicaflex SL might cost around the price of a Nikon FM3a).

If you settle for lesser viewfinders and dampening, then the manual Nikons 80% of the posts mentioned, the Pentaxes (I muich prefer the K2 or KM to the K1000) or the Olympuses can be very good choices.

Maybe you should look at lenses first (which FLs and for what) and then the body might follow...
For example, if you'll practically only use a 50mm (or other single FL) then a Pentax Spotmatic could be a great choice.

About Soviet Leica copies, they *can* be quite good if gotten from reliable sources and/or CLA'd. Otherwise they are "Russian roulette"...
If you are considering rangefinders, that opens a whole new can of worms...

Hmm...well rangerfinders, I don't know what to say. If I have money I will buy Leica M3 otherwise I will ask for opinions.

 

[CGW]

I am thinking to experiment at 35mm focal length with black-and-white film. I will happy to find any lens for low-light(F <= 2.0).

I have shortlisted

- Nikon F2AS
- Nikon FM2
- Nikon FM3a

- Canon AE-1(Do not know, whether it is mechanical.)

Please help by filling other good cameras from Olympus, Pentax or any known good brand.

The FM3a isn't exactly a bargain-priced camera, despite its many strengths. I'd forget an F2AS: it's become an over-priced collectible unless you're willing to chance buying a half-dead beater. An FM2 or better still, an FM2n, is probably your camera. The Nikon 35/2Ai is a very sweet lens(the 35/1.4 is very pricey), as is the 50/1.4 in Ai or AiS versions. Check the lens reviews at www.nikonlinks.com

The Canon AE-1 isn't mechanical.

 

[ic-racer]

The mechanical SLR was at the forefront of the amateur photography boom of the 1970s. I'd guess there are over one thousand different mechanical SLRs to choose from. The bottom line is that any of them that focus correctly and expose film correctly would be good. Variation between all the 50mm SLR lenses made at f8 or f11 is unlikely to be detected in prints. I'd say the best ones are the ones you get for free or less than $20

 

[Rol_Lei Nut]

I am thinking to experiment at 35mm focal length with black-and-white film. I will happy to find any lens for low-light(F <= 2.0).

35mm is my favourite FL...

In order of preference (roughly), the are the 35mm FL lenses I like:

- Zeiss 35mm f/1.4 - My desert island lens, special look, but big & heavy - fits Y/C, Rollei
- Leica R Summicron 2.0 - Not quite as magical as the Zeiss, but far more portable, great flare resistance.
- Zeiss 2.8 (Rollei) - very small, nice & compact. Apparently C/Y version was different.
- Leica M Summicron 2.0 (Leica M, Zeiss-Ikon, Bessas) - great, tiny all-rounder, just lacking a bit of the magic of the R version.
- Leica R Elamarit (later) 2.8 - Very sharp, biting, more "technical" than the Summicron (which is more "pictorial").
- Schneider Curtagon 2.8 - Very solid, massive-looking imagery, nice! M42
- Pentax SMC 3.5 - Behaves exactly like the Curtagon above.
- Nikkor AI 2.0 - Very good stopped down a stop or so, but lags behind all the above lenses and is somewhat flare-prone.
- Zeiss Jena 2.8 - Nice, somewhat flare prone.
- Nikkor 1.4 - Admittedly very sharp in the centre, but I really didn't like its look.

These are all good lenses, even the "worst" is considered by some an exceptional lens. Personal taste plays a role as can intended use: for example, the R Elamarit is great at reproducing with high contrast and fidelity (think architecture) while the R Summicron is more atmospheric (I like it better for general use).

Good thangs are said about the new 2.0 Zeiss lens for Nikon, canon, etc., but haven't used it.
The Various Zeiss & C/V lenses for rangefinders are also supposed to be very good.

Hope this can be useful...

 

[Pumalite]

Get a Nikon F or F2; send it for a CLA and then get the lenses you need. I have six.

 

[agphotography]

There are no manual focus lenses for EF cameras as far as I am aware.

Wellll that's not entirely true. Most are specialty lenses though.

The TS-E lenses are all native EF mount but manual focus only.
The MP-E 65mm is a macro lens that is manual focus only.

The Zeiss ZE lineup is native Canon mount with aperture control and metering and everything but they're manual focus only. (But they are SOOOO sweet )
There are other 3rd party companies like Samyang making some interesting primes as well.

Presently they have a Circular fisheye (7 or 8mm), a 14mm f/2.8, a 35mm f/1.4 (coming out shortly), and an 85mm f/1.4. All are decent lenses for the asking price.

 

[Les Sarile]

Definitely it is not going to be an easy decision, but a very wise recommendation indeed.

The first choice is hard to make but all subsequent selections get much easier

- Canon AE-1(Do not know, whether it is mechanical.)

Not mechanical and not metal.

Please help by filling other good cameras from Olympus, Pentax or any known good brand.

See my posted image.

Canon

1. FTB full size metal/mechanical full functional - MLU, timer, DOF preview etc.
2. Pellicle full size metal/mechanical full functional - pellicle mirror, MLU, timer, DOF preview etc.
3. F-1 full size metal/mechanical full functional - interchangeable finder, MLU, timer, DOF preview etc.
4. New F-1 modernized F-1 with automation

Minolta

1. SRT101 & 102 full size metal/mechanical full functional - MLU, timer, DOF preview etc.
2. XE-7 Co-designed with Leica is IMO the smoothest MD mount. Released as Leica R3.

Olympus

1. OM-1 & OM-3 full mechanical.
2. OM-2SP & OM-4 has the best spot meter of the era and better then even the most current EOS in aperture priority autoexposure.

Pentax

1. K1000 bare bones metered and venerable.
2. KX full size metal/mechanical full functional - MLU, timer, DOF preview etc.
3. MX smallest 35mm SLR and the largest full info viewfinder.
4. LX smallest interchangeable finder with the widest EV range range meter then even the OM-2 & OM-4.

The FM3a is a newer version of the combination of FE2+FM2+more. The blackoutless split image screen was introduced in the FM3A and is unbelievably clear regardless of slow lens or stopping down. This screen can be used on the FE2 or FM2.

Resources for more in-depth reviews:

• MIR on Nikons
• MIR on Pentax LX
• MIR on Canons

BTW, Pentax bayonet will mount on all models. Nikons will mount with non-AI and AI limitations. Leica releases current lenses with Nikon and Pentax mounts.

 

[Les Sarile]

To be sure, I don't currently own the OM-3, Pellicle, F-1's but am aware of them and actively seeking. There are still a lot of others that I am not yet aware of and will be learning about them as it comes along so good luck with your hunt!

 

[Marvin]

The Minolta SR-T101 is a good one and fast MD lenses are cheap.

 

[vpwphoto]

Why do we all chime in on these posts...?

... go get a beater Pentax k1000 and if you are still shooting a roll of film a month in a year I'll be impressed.

 

[mopar_guy]

This one is the best:



In my humble opinion the Olympus OM-3Ti.

 

[elekm]

There are a lot of great Pentax cameras from the Spotmatics to the K-mounts (K1000, KX, LX, MX).

Nikon has its Nikkormat cameras, as well as the Nikon F series (F, F2, F2A, F2AS, FE, FM).

Konica has the Autoreflex T and TC, while there are more cameras from Minolta (SRT and X), Yashica/Kyocera, Olympus and others.

And there are German and Swiss SLRs, too. Depends on how much you wish to spend and whether you want European or Japanese. Many of the Japanese cameras will need new foam seals, and all the cameras should have routine service.

Also, do you want a full-size camera or a smaller camera?

 

[cowanw]

contax s2

 

[Les Sarile]

Why do we all chime in on these posts...?

Because it's a perfect opportunity to post some camera porn ;-)

 

[mopar_guy]

I did a search on APUG of the term "best" and got 1000 different threads.

 

[Les Sarile]

There are no manual focus lenses for EF cameras as far as I am aware.

Canon 1VHS with Olympus OM lens and Olympus Vari Magni Finder . . .

 

[tomalophicon]

You should clean that lens after letting it touch that Canon